Champagne - Seven grapes are better than three

Conventional wisdom about anything - automobiles, movies, sports - can be a tricky thing. Usually that information is true, or at least accepted as true. I won't get into the misinformation that clogs up the internet these days - I could write all day on that topic.

Take Champagne for example, when it comes to universal truths. We all know that an authentic Champagne - produced from grapes grown in the Champagne district of France - can be made from three grape types, namely, Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier. That's a fact that everyone knows - right?

Well it turns out that there are actually seven varieties permitted in the production of Champagne. It's just that you don't hear about the other four as only a handful of producers use these other varieties. Then consider that these four varieties account for approximately 1% of the total planting in Champagne and you can understand why these varieties are rarely discussed.

Still, they exist and here they are listed: Pinot Gris (also known as Fromenteau or Enfumé), Arbane, found only in the Aube district, Pinot Blanc (also known as Blanc Vrai) and Petit Meslier. They're all white varieties by the way, so that means there are a total of five white varieties that can be used in Champagne (Chardonnay, of course, being the other) with two red varieties: Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier.

There actually are a few producers that craft a Champagne using all seven varieties and I recently tasted one, the Le Nombre d'Or "Campaniae Veters Vites" Brut from the great house of L. Aubry Fils of Jouy-les-Reims. This was the 2005 vintage and the primary grapes are Pinot Gris and Petit Meslier, while the other five varieties represent anywhere from 5% to 15% or 20% of the blend. The name incidentally means "the golden number," referring to all seven varieties in this wine. The specific cuvée name "Campaniae Veters Vites," means "old vines of the countryside." (Incidentally, there is also a Blanc de Blancs version of this wine - named Sable Blanc de Blancs - which is comprised of Chardonnay, Arbane and Petit Meslier.)

As you might imagine, this is a very distinctive Champagne; instead of the toasty, yeasty notes you find in the aromas of so many Champagnes, this has perfumes of green mint, dried pear, chamomile and even a hint of fig and dried yellow flowers. Medium-full, this is quite elegant and vibrant on the palate and there is a long, satisfying finish with very good acidity and a light earthiness. It's not an austere style of Champagne; it is delicious and extremely well balanced, and of course, displays marvelous complexity. It's beautiful now and should drink well for another 3-5 years - perhaps longer.


I may not have been in seventh heaven, but what a stylish Champagne!

A Family's Difficult Harvest in Bordeaux

This post is a little different than others I've written for this blog, as this is a movie review. The movie is a French film called You Will Be My Son (Tu seras mon fils, in French with English subtitles) and it is an excellent drama about pride, tradition and jealousy within an estate in Bordeaux.

I saw the film recently in Chicago at the French film festival; I had read a brief writeup in a local paper and noticed the photo above with the vineyards in the background, which peaked my interest. Given the nice review, I knew I had to see it, especially given that the last two feature films I had seen about wine - namely the dreadful Bottle Shock and the boring A Good Year - were tremendous wastes of time. I thought that someone had to make a good movie about wine and You Will Be My Son is just that.


The story centers on Paul de Marseul (portrayed by Niels Arestrup, who gave a very touching performance in War Horse), the owner of a prestigious wine estate in Saint Emilion. He is dedicated to his profession and his winery's image and is set in his ways. That means that he will not let his son Martin (Loran Deutsch) handle any of the winemaking chores. He does let him handle administrative duties, such as ordering barrels or hiring workers for the harvest, but that is all. Martin asks his father to let him work in the cellar, especially as he has a degree in winemaking. But his father is not going to give him that opportunity, telling Martin, "You don't make wine in college. You need a nose, a palate. All you have is an ear."

As the grapes are ripening, Paul learns that his estate manager François Amelot (Patrick Chesnais, in a marvelously emotional performance) has been diagnosed with inoperable cancer and has been given only six months to live. Much is made of the cycle of life and death - the ripening of the grapes, the maturation of human life - that is a nice touch in the screenplay written by Gilles Legrand (who also directed the film) along with Delphine de Vegan and Laure Gasparotto.

Paul has trusted François for decades and has counted on his expertise at harvest time; indeed he tries to get him to oversee what will be François' last harvest. But he is just too ill to do much work, so Paul contacts François's son Philippe (Nicolas Bridet), who is the winemaker for Coppola in Napa Valley to come over and work the harvest and take charge in the cellar during this critical time. Philippe agrees, which is a big help to Paul, but creates a charged situation with Martin, who believes he should have been given this opportunity.

I won't give any more plot details away, except to say that Paul makes more gestures as time goes on to reward Philippe in spite of his own son Martin. Clearly, Legrand must have read East of Eden by John Steinbeck (or seen the Elia Kazan film version), as there is a similar theme here of deprived love and what can happen when a father does not confide in his son. Jealousy rules the day and even Philippe is unsure after a while that he should be the winemaker in place of Martin.

The story is nicely organized with multiple layers and these are characters we truly care about - we want to know all throughout the film how their lives will play out. The final act, which comes as an ironic, very somber sequence, is nicely done.

Wine drinkers of course, will love the shots of the vineyards with closeups of the grape clusters on the vine. There are also some lovely scenes in the cellar, where we see Paul pull out a few older treasured bottles as well as open his heart, as he tells of some past secrets. In vino veritas, indeed!

This is a wonderful film that I highly recommend. It opens on August 16 in Los Angeles and New York City. Here is a link to the trailer.

Alsatian Riesling - Textbook wines

There are some who will tell you that Riesling is the world's greatest wine grape. I may opt for Sauvignon Blanc or Pinot Noir or Nebbiolo (or even Gewurztraminer when I'm in the mood), but clearly I too feel very strongly about Riesling as the source of so many great wines.

Germany has always been recognized as the spiritual home of Riesling and it's unlikely any country produces as many great examples. Elsewhere, the dry Rieslings from Clare Valley in Australia, with their petrol aromas and racy acidity, are remarkably striking and there are also some beautifully made examples in northern Italy, not only in the northeastern regions of Alto Adige and Friuli, but also in Piemonte (yes, Piemonte).

Let's not forget Alsace, home of some of the most magnificent white wines in the world. Several grapes, such as Pinot Blanc, Muscat and the aforementioned Gewurztraminer vie for top honors in any given year, but it is Riesling that more often than not is regarded as the signature grape of Alsace. This cool area, located in far northeastern France, is ideal for white wines that combine striking aromatics with excellent structure and Riesling performs magnificently here with even the most basic examples drinking well for 2-3 years with many types of foods, while the finest versions offer pleasure for a decade or more.

I recently tasted four Alsatian Rieslings - three from 2011 and one from 2010 - that gave me a better understanding of the status quo of this wine in this zone. 2011 was a very warm year, delivering wines of excellent richness and quality. The acidity levels are slightly lower than in an ideal year such as 2010, so the wines may not age as long as is typical, but as with any wine from any area, one needs to look to the best producers.

2010 was a first-rate year in terms of overall balance. The Rieslings are a bit lighter on the palate than those from 2011, but the aromatics tend to offer greater complexity, while there are better levels of acidity. The 2010s as a rule will tend to age longer than the 2011s, but there are excellent wines from both vintages.

Here are notes on the wines I tasted:

2011 Meyer-Fonné Reserve - Straw-light yellow color; expressive aromas of Bosc pear and chamomile. Medium-full, this has a rich mid-palate, very good acidity and impressive persistence. There are notes of yellow spice in the finish along with a touch of minerality. This is quite dry and has impeccable balance; it is rich with a nice sense of lightness at the same time. Enjoy over the next 2-3 years. This is not a well-known producer, but based on this wine, it should be!

2011 Domaine Weinbach "Cuvée Theo" - While Meyer-Fonné is not a household name among Alsatian producers, Domaine Weinbach, managed by Colette Faller and her daughters, is world famous. Much of this is based on their amazing quality, while some of it derives from the fact that the wines are very rich, in some cases, quite lush on the palate. This "Cuvée Theo" from 2011 is prime evidence of the house style; offering aromas of apricot, Anjou pear and hibiscus, this is very ripe and rich and comes across quite differently on the palate and in the finish than the Meyer-Fonné from the same vintage. That's not to say that one wine is better than another; rather, these two wines are meant for different food preparations, with the Meyer-Fonné arguably a better match for terrines and lighter fish, while the Weinbach seems as if it would be better paired with crab, lobster or even a lighter veal preparation. I don't see much point to aging this wine, so enjoy it now and over the next year or two with food.

2011 Ostertag "Vignoble d'E"- The "E" in this wine's name stands for Epfig, the town around which the various vineyards that are the source of this wine are located. Offering pleasant aromas of lime, chamomile and melon, this is a distinctive wine that combines lovely varietal purity with finesse and charm. This has good natural acidity, excellent persistence and is elegantly styled. I'd love to try this wine with delicious, but uncomplicated dishes such as vegetable terrine or sautéed scallops. André Ostertag is a biodynamic producer who is at the top of his game.

2010 Trimbach Riesling - Trimbach may be the most famous and successful wine estate in Alsace and why not? After all, they've been in business since 1626! This 2010 Riesling is a lovely wine, one that displays beautiful varietal purity and balance with a vibrant finish with lively acidity. Offering aromas and flavors of pear, melon and yellow flowers, this is medium-full with a rich mid-palate and a long finish with excellent persistence. This firm's "Cuvée Frederic Emile" Riesling is an amazing wine that has been recognized as one of Alsace's best examples of this variety, but this classic Riesling is also something very special. Enjoy this over the next 2-5 years with dishes such as pork medallions, roast veal or even Oriental cuisine.

For Love of Pizza (Neapolitan, that is)

Monica Piscitelli taking a bite out of her new book on the best pizzerie of Napoli and Campania (Photo ©Tom Hyland)

Head to Italy, especially Southern Italy, and you've got to enjoy the local pizza. Where else in the world is pizza taken so seriously - and done so magnificently? 

To help you on your quest to find the best pizza during your next visit to Campania, local journalist Monica Piscitelli has written a book titled Giuda alle Migliori Pizzerie Napoli e Campania. It's in Italian, but even if you don't know the language, this is an easy to navigate book that's nicely organized with beautiful graphics and easily understood ratings.

Piscitelli begins her book with an engaging discussion of pizza in Napoli and how to recognize greatness in this product. She admits that personal opinion - objectivity - plays an important part in this decision. This is like enjoying wine, in that it depends on whom you're sharing your pizza with (or if you're sharing it), if you're enjoying it at a renowned pizzeria with a hungry crowd or simply eating it while working on your computer. Beauty in pizza - like most things - is in the eye of the beholder. Is it crunchy? Is it too runny? Was the best flour used? The Neapolitans do take their pizza seriously to say the least. 

For the author, there are some things that she needs to see and taste in a Neapolitan pizza. She writes about looking at the pizza after it has been cooked (or "fired" in the oven, if you will); this "reveals many things, not only lightness, softness (fluffiness) and uniformity, but also ... the perfect tradition of a beautifully risen pizza from the wood oven."

As for the main section of the book in which she rates the various pizzerie, the author organizes these eateries into location in Napoli (such as Centro Storico e Mercato and Toledo e Quartieri Spagnoli), just outside the city as well as other areas of Campania. She tells the history of each pizzeria, writing about the individuals that operate them and offers tidbits, as in the section on Pizzeria del Figlio di Presidente, when they served pizza to President Bill Clinton during his visit amidst a G7 conference.

But trivia aside, readers will want to know which pizzerie are the ones that Piscitelli rates the best. There are several categories including atmosphere, price and parking, but of course, everyone wants to know who serves the best pizza. Among the highest rated by the author, the list includes Starita (Via Materdei, Napoli), Umberto (Via Alabardieri, Napoli), Di Matteo (one of Napoli's most historic pizzerie and another place President Clinton stopped in) and La Notizia (Via Caravaggio, Napoli), the creation of Enzo Coccia, who has been recognized by local and international press for the quality and variety of his ingredients. There are a few others in Napoli that receive the highest rating as well as one - Pizzeria Pepe - that is situated outside of Napoli, in this case in the town of Caizzo in the northern Campanian province of Caserta.

Piscitelli also has a separate rating for the best examples of Pizza Margherita, the pizza that is the truest representation of the Neapolitan style (and one that many pizza devotees judge a Campanian pizzeria on); the list includes Pizzeria Vuolo and Di Napoli in the city of Napoli as well as the previously mentioned La Notizia and Pizzeria Pepe.

Finally for students of how this style of pizza is made there is a glossary of the pezzajuolo (the pizza maker) at the back of the book; terms such as crisceto (the mother yeast), impastamento (kneading) and stufa (stove) are defined. This is a nice source of information, one that helps lift this book above others written on the subject.

In all, this is an engaging, informative, highly detailed look at the best pizzerie of Napoli and the surrounding area and it clearly was a labor of love for the author. Brava, Monica!

Guida alle Migliori Pizzerie Napoli e Campania - Edizioni dell'Ippogrifo - 10.00 Euro

Available as an app for iPhone here.

"A Wonderful Wine Journey"

"With a little help from my friends"

My first book on Italian wines, Beyond Barolo and Brunello: Italy's Most Distinctive Wines has been available for just a little more than two weeks and sales are good, for which I'm thankful. I'm also appreciative of some special individuals I've known for a few years who have written some wonderful things about my book.

Here are the quotes from the back cover:

"The approach of this book on Italian wine is focused on the producers. Tom captivates the personal stories of some lesser-known produttori, while introducing us to some unusual grape varieties. He also tells us how to discover and understand their poetry in the glass and on the palate." - Piero Selvaggio, Owner, Valentino Restaurant, Santa Monica, CA.

"Tom has his finger on the pulse of contemporary Italy. His extensive experience with Italian winemakers and his passion for the land, vines and wines make this in-depth reference book a must-have for lovers of Italian wine." - Debra Meiburg, Master of Wine, Hong Kong

"Tom Hyland has the sense of smell of the Italian truffle dogs; he succeeds in unearthing excellent wines and great producers amidst the thousands, indeed tens of thousands of proposals. His book is a good trail to follow for all who love Italian wine. You can be secure - before recommending a glass, he enjoyed it!" - Luciano Pignataro, Wine journalist, Napoli

Then there is this wonderful quote from a review by Subhash Arora at his blog, Italian Wine Academy:

"Each wine listing describes in detail several specifics about the wine, not only the aromas and flavours, but also the style of the wine as sought by the producer. More than just a technical approach to the Italian wine industry and the specific regions, he has taken an engaging look into the individual producers as they carry out the work of their previous ancestors of creating a product that reflects the terroir and a sense of place..."

Later in the review, he writes that my book is "a wonderful wine journey." Thank you, Subhash! (Here is a link to this review.) 

Hopefully, there will be more praise along the way for my book - I'll be sure to share it!

Here is the link for ordering the book.