Champagne Insight

My recently published book The Essence of Champagne: In the Glass and at the Table focuses on 50 producers, ranging from large, well-known houses, such as Veuve Clicquot and Perrier-Jouet, to small growers, such as Cédric Bouchard, David Léclapart and others. I wrote chapters about each producer, so the book is a collection of essays about these vintners, including not only technical information such as vineyards and blending, but also personal philosophy on their Champagnes.


Here are a few excerpts from the book:

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"I don't think that owning your vineyards, which is a sign of richness, is a necessary evil to make quality Champagne." - Gilles Dumangin, J. Dumangin, Chigny-Les-Roses (Montagne de Reims)

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"I learned that finesse and elegance are the most important things in creating a great wine." - Odilon de Varine, chef-de-caves, Gosset, Epernay (Vallée de la Marne)

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"The public has little awareness of our company, yet you have the Champagne fanatics that have high respect and love for our wines." - Cyril Brun, chef-de-caves, Charles Heidsieck, Reims (Montage de Reims)

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Dominique Demarville (Photo ©Tom Hyland)

"They (Chardonnay and Pinot Noir) have wonderful potential for aging, especially when the year is good. Of course, from year to year, sometimes the Chardonnay is better, sometimes the Pinot Noir. In reality, it depends mostly on the area and climate - essentially rainfall - that we have."  - Dominique Demarville, chef-de-caves, Veuve Clicquot, Reims

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"We try to make something quite natural, preserving the balance of nature, which of course, is the approach of biodynamic. Put a lot of love in your vineyards, and your vineyards will give back to you." - Frédéric Zeimett, managing director, Leclerc Briant, Epernay

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Pierre Larmandier (Photo ©Tom Hyland)

"I think that with biodynamic, the wines are a little more intense. What we think also is that we are never tired. We have energy from biodynamic." - Pierre Larmandier, Champagne Larmandier Bernier, Vertus (Cote des Blancs)

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"My philosophy is that Champagne should deliver a combination of elegance, energy, complexity - it's very complex at times. Energy, complexity, tension, minerality, elegance. That is what I want to create, because I think the trust of our terroir in Champagne is a very simple philosophy. I just want to be loyal to my land." - Bruno Paillard, Champagne Bruno Paillard, Reims

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The Essence of Champagne is available at amazon (click here)