A Dynamic Biodynamic Wine

There is a lot of talk these days about organic and biodynamic viticulture in several wine regions around the world. Several producers in Chile have turned to organic farming, while a precious few are now working according to biodynamic practices (" a natural biological balance"- read more here). For me the leading biodynamic producer in Chile is Emiliana, located in Colchagua Valley).

There are all sorts of thoughts about biodynamic wines and how they differ from traditionally farmed vineyards; for me, the finest examples have a finesse and length to them that I don't often find in "standard" wines. That is certainly true with the Emiliana Coyam from the 2007 vintage. This is a complex wine, blended from Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon, Carmenere, Merlot and Petit Verdot, aged in both French and American oak. Medium-full, the wine has beautiful black cherry, black plum and cigar box aromas, a generous mid-palate and a nicely structured finish with good acidity and nicely balanced tannins. This is approachable now, but should be at its best in 5-7 years; I'd recommend pairing this with veal medallions, roast pork or duck. The retail price is $29, which I think is quite fair, given the structure, complexity and elegance of this wine. You will not be disappointed.

Paul Dolan - Winemaker/Organic Farmer - and Thinker!

I had dinner with Paul Dolan the other night at 16 Restaurant in the new Trump Tower in Chicago. Dinner at this site would have been wonderful with anyone, but when you get a chance to spend that time with Paul Dolan, it makes for a fascinating evening.

Paul is the former winemaker for Fetzer Vineyards and today works with Parducci Vineyards as well as growing grapes and making wine under his own Paul Dolan Vineyards label. He tends to his vineyards near the town of Ukiah in Northern California's Mendocino County with the utmost concern for the environment, as his practices include organic and biodynamic farming. "With organic farming, we treat the soil," Dolan explains. "The vines then have the opportunity to reach out deep and far to extract flavor. With conventional farming, the vines don't go anywhere beyond a two-foot radius. Why would they if you're bringing them water and food?" Thus Dolan views organic farming as creating a new potential for his vines.

Paul showed me four wines from his Paul Dolan Vineyards label, two whites - a 2006 Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnay, both from his vineyards in Mendocino County in northern California - and two reds: a 2005 Zinfandel from Mendocino and Amador Counties and a blend of Petite Sirah, Grenache, Zinfandel and Syrah from the 2005 vintage, known as Deep Red. This last wine was produced from biodynamic grapes and is first-rate. The color is bright purple and the aromas of blackberry and cranberry jump out of the glass, while the finish is elegant with polished tannins and tart acidity. The wine in a word is delicious and was ideal with two of the entrees we enjoyed at the restaurant: duck breast and New Zealand snapper. The wine retails for $45 and is worth every penny. (I also thoroughly enjoyed the Chardonnay made from old vines. There's tasty pear and golden apple flavors and just a kiss of oak. It's wonderful food wine!)

Paul has his act together and I certainly hope his wines get the attention they deserve, not only for their quality but also for the way in which Paul grows his grapes. He's authored a book on sustainable agriculture, so he's not one of these vintners that has jumped on the organic bandwagon. He thinks he will make better wines this way and I have to agree with him.