A Dazzling Meal at Trump Tower in Chicago

Filet of Dover Sole

Warm Carrot and Ginger Nage with Ossetra Caviar,

Preserved Lemon and Petite Spring Vegetables

16 Resturant, Trump Tower, Chicago

Chef Thomas Lents

Last week I enjoyed one of the most memorable meals in my life at 16 Restaurant at Trump Tower in Chicago. The new menu, which has been in place only a few weeks, is the creation of Chef Thomas Lents, who came to Trump from Joel Robuchon Restaurant at the MGM Grand Hotel in Las Vegas. In fact, Lents was the very first American to serve as chef de cuisine for Robuchon, which testifies to his talent as well as to why Trump wanted him as their chef in Chicago.

Dining at 16 Restaurant is a pretty special experience to start with as this is a gorgeous cathedral-like room of high ceilings and glass that offer the diner spectacular views of the Chicago River and Lake Michigan; at that height, you're also face to face with the famous clock tower of the Wrigley Building. Visitors I've talked to at the restaurant love this panorama and as a life-long Chicagoan, I never tired of the view; it's just another small piece of evidence as to the remarkable beauty of our city.

The previous meal I enjoyed here some five months earlier was excellent (read here); two courses with foie gras certainly added to my pleasure (and my waistline); service all around was attentive and I came away not only satisfied with my meal, but also thinking that here was a restaurant that deserved greater acclaim.

Now after enjoying Chef Lents' cuisine, I am convinced this is an outstanding, perhaps great restaurant. The asparagus tarte is served with Serrano ham and has a tuile of parmesan as the base; the saltiness of the parmesan was a perfect foil for the Ruinart Blancs de Blancs. The combination of the rabbit confit served on small toast (which you eat with your fingers) with the pea soup meshed perfectly as did all the flavors of the dover sole with a carrot and ginger nage, served with Ossetra caviar and baby carrots. This is a spectacular dish that has a remarkable array of flavors, all of which harmonize beautifully in an entrée that is light as a feather.

I gave wine director Rachael Lowe carte blanche in selecting my wines and as usual, she outdid herself. Her choice of the 2005 Arnaud Ente Meursault "La Goutte d'Or" with the pea soup was nothing short of brilliant, while her selection of a 2006 Martin Schaetze Pinot Gris (vibrant and powerful) was likewise inspired. When you dine at 16, you must take advantage of Rachael's extraordinary talent for pairing the proper wine with your food; she's great at it and she also happens to be one of the most engaging people I've met anywhere in this industry.

So congratulations to Chef Thomas Lents on his inspired cuisine and compliments to everyone at 16 Restaurant, as this was a great evening; the service was amazing - attentive and friendly with just the right attention to detail. In closing, let me say that I've dined at Michelin two-star restaurants in Europe; based on this meal, 16 Restaurant deserves those same two stars.


16 Restaurant
Trump International Hotel and Tower
401 N. Wabash, Chicago
Reservations: 1-877-458-7867


Lunch daily from 11:30 to 2:30 PM
Dinner: Sunday to Wednesday from 5:30 to 9:30
Thursday to Saturday from 5:30 to 10:00 PM

A Memorable Evening of Wine and Food Pairing

Rachael Lowe (Photo ©Tom Hyland)

Having spent 30 years in the wine industry and being able to travel to wine regions in Italy, France, New Zealand, Chile, California and several other places, I know a few things about wine. But you soon understand that no matter how long you work at it or how many territories you travel to, you'll never know it all. In fact, the nice thing about being in your 50s (I'm 55), is realizing how little you do know and being able to accept that fact (I've talked about this with several friends my age and they all agree).

Maintaining the belief that you don't know it all will open your eyes to some amazing experiences. This past Wednesday was one of those memorable moments in my life when I enjoyed dinner at 16 Restaurant at the Trump Tower in Chicago. Rachael Lowe, the young, effervescent, engaging wine director here since mid-2010, personally selected wines to accompany my dinner. 

I had asked her not to bring any Italian wines to the table, as those represent much of my work. Other than that, she was free to select any wine she saw fit. I didn't think of it at the time I ordered my meal, but I threw her a curveball, as I started with an appetizer of pork belly, while selecting yellowtail snapper for my entrée, meaning a white would come after the red. As you will read below, Rachael was more than up to the task of finding the right wines for these dishes.

Here is what I enjoyed along with Rachael's wine selections for each dish:

Amuse-bouche: Braised lamb with pumpernickel bread

Wine selection: Krug Grand Cuvée, non-vintage (or "multi-vintage" as Rachael called it)

I know what you're thinking- this outstanding Champagne could go with anything, but it was a perfect opener (how could you not have a smile on your face when the wine director brings you Krug Champagne?). The wine worked beautifully with the pork, which was served in tiny cubes and was remarkably tender.

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Appetizer: Crispy pork belly with red cabbage, pumpernickel and cider gelée

Wine selection: Jean Foillard Morgon "Cuvée Corcelette" 2009

Like many wine lovers, I just don't try enough examples of Beaujolais, so I was happy to enjoy this offering. Rachael described this wine in glowing terms and she was spot on, as this was a Beaujolais of great complexity and persistence that displayed a great deal of finesse and elegance as well as varietal character. The fruit aromas of cassis, red raspberry and strawberry were amazing and the weight and texture of this wine was ideal for this marvelous dish, which was again, very tender with subtle spice.

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First course: Squab breast with Hunter Valley foie gras

Wine selection: Domaine de la Solitude Chateauneuf-du-Pape 1999
This was clearly the richest course I enjoyed for dinner and it needed a big red; this was plenty big. I remarked to Rachael that I would love to revisit this wine in another 10 or 15 years - it's got that much depth of fruit. The ripeness and spice of this wine were perfect for the squab and the wine more than held its own with this remarkable course.

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Main course: Yellowtail snapper with quinoa, ginger curry apple purée, salsify, golden raisin caper relish

Wine selection: Nicolas Joly Savennieres "Clos de la Bergerie" 2005

To say that this unique white, made by the great biodynamic producer Nicolas Joly, was able to stand up to the snapper is an understatement; I think this wine could pair well with shark roe! Made from Chenin Blanc, this is a full-blown, powerful white with plenty of spice and grip; this should be drinking well for another 7 or 8 years. This was my favorite course, by the way, with the fleshiness and tenderness of the fish complemented so well by the sweetness of the apple purée and golden raisin relish.

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Dessert: Blackberry tart with buttermilk ice cream
Wine selection: Domaine de la Cure Monbazillac 2009
This dessert wine from southwestern France, made primarily from Sauvignon Blanc and Semillon was a marvelous finish to my meal. Deep amber in color, the wine is quite rich on the palate with medium sweetness and very good acidity. It added another dimension to this exquisite dessert.


Thank you, Rachael for the education in pairing wine with food - I learned a lot. This was truly a memorable evening!

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P.S. I would be remiss not to mention the outstanding work turned in by Chef Joseph Rose. This restaurant was operating at a high level when it first opened in 2009, but since Rose has taken the helm in the kitchen, he has taken this dining room to new heights.

The restaurant has been awarded one Michelin star, but I am still waiting for the local critics to give this restaurant its due. I believe it is on par with the best restaurants in the city, as it combines beautifully creative cuisine with a gorgeous room and extremely friendly and professional service.

P.P.S. There was an insightful article about Rachael in the July 31 issue of Sommelier Journal (read here). Rachael is well on her way to becoming a Master Sommelier; she has one more exam and if all goes well, will earn that title sometime in the summer of 2012.

I certainly wish her well in her quest. She is clearly one of the most knowledgeable wine professionals in Chicago - and easily one of the most charming!