Highlights from Tre Bicchieri

Gianluca Grasso, Az. Agr. Elio Grasso (Photo ©Tom Hyland)

The Gambero Rosso Tre Bicchieri  tasting was held in Chicago yesterday - stops in New York City and San Francisco are also part of this current tour - and wine lovers in the trade and media were treated to an embarrassment of riches, as far as Italian wines go. This publication, generally regarded to as the Bible of Italian wines, each year tastes 20,000 wines for their guide and rates wines on a scale of one to three glasses, with the highest being three - tre bicchieri - wines that are considered by the tasting panel as the finest in the country. As only 415 wines were given this rating for the 2014 guide - barely more than two percent of the wines tasted - these truly are special wines.

What I love about this guide is that the highest ratings for Italian wines are not relegated to the most famous full-bodied reds such as Barolo, Brunello di Montalcino or Amarone; rather there are dozens of Italian wines that are honored as worthy of a Tre Bicchieri rating, be they sparkling such as Prosecco or Franciacorta, elegant whites from Alto Adige, Friuli, Campania and several other regions or gorgeous reds such as Aglianico del Vulture, Taurasi and Montepulciano d'Abruzzo that often do not get the attention they deserve.

So at this tasting yesterday, one could pretty much receive a thorough education in Italian wines; yes, tasting the finest Italian wines of the year is quite special, but when you realize that you'll taste a wide range of wine types, well, that makes a day like this even more enjoyable.

So without further ado, on to a few highlights from the 2014 Tre Bicchieri tasting:

Sparkling - Everyone knows Prosecco, the famous sparkling wine from the Veneto region, but this is a product generally thought of as an everyday wine, one without distinctive characteristics. One taste of the 2012 Ruggeri "Giustino B"Extra Dry would prove how special this wine can be; medium-full with an explosive mid-palate and a lengthy, elegant finish, this is a classy sparkling wine! 

As for Franciacorta, arguably Italy's finest sparkling wine category, there were several first-rate offerings featured, including the beautifully-structured Lo Sparviere 2007 Extra Brut and the Ferghettina Pas Dosé "33"Riserva 2006, a blend of three of their finest wines (100% Chardonnay) that is perfectly balanced with lovely complexity. Then there were two of Italy's most sublime sparkling wines, the 2005 Ca' del Bosco "Annamaria Clementi" and the 2006 Bellavista "Vittorio Moretti"; both are quite powerful, with amazing persistence are absolutely delicious and can rightfully take their place among the world's finest sparkling wines.

Marica Bonomo, Monte del Fra (Photo ©Tom Hyland)

Whites - Italian white wines just don't get the attention they deserve from the major wine publications; I've been commenting on this for years. So how nice of Gambero Rosso to honor the country's finest whites, whatever the type and style. At Monte del Fra, proprietor Marica Bonomo produced a lovely 2011 Custoza "Ca' del Magro" from her estate vineyards in the Veneto; a blend of several grapes (primarily Garganega), this is a charming dry white with beautiful acidity and subtle charms. The 2012 Feudi di San Gregorio Greco di Tufo "Cutizzi" from a single vineyard in Santa Paolina in Campania, is a rich white with beautiful citrus and floral aromatics and lively acidity, a trait of this vintage's white from this region. Drinkable now with rich seafood, this will be even better with another 3-5 years of aging.

The white that most surprised me was the 2011 Valle Reale Trebbiano d'Abruzzo "Vigne de Capstrano." I say that as most examples of Trebbiano d'Abruzzo are quite simple, even one-dimensional; how nice to experience a Trebbiano that breaks the mold! Fermented with wild yeasts and unfiltered, this has a cloudy appearance; quite full on the palate, this has spicy, nutty perfumes and a powerful finish; here is a Trebbiano of great complexity, one that has aging potential. This estate has been a leader in this region and this wine is, in my opinion, one of Italy's most distinctive whites!

Gerardo Giuratrabocchetti, Cantine del Notaio (Photo ©Tom Hyland)

Reds - Of course, there were the usual suspects presented in this tasting, including Barolo and Brunello di Montalcino. Of the former, the best examples were the Giacomo Fenocchio "Bussia" and the Elio Grasso "Gavarini Chiniera", both from the 2009 vintage. That was a rather difficult year for Barolo, but these wines displayed the elegance one has come to expect from the finest examples of this iconic wine. Both are made in a traditional style and are ideally balanced with good acidity; these are examples of Barolo that are meant for food, whether in a few years or 10-12 years down the road.

As for Brunello di Montalcino, the Mastrojanni "Vigna Schiena d'Asino"is a stunning wine. Traditionally made with great Sangiovese purity, this is a wine of elegance, breeding and first-rate complexity. Offering excellent depth of fruit, subtle wood notes and very good acidity, this is a textbook Brunello meant for 12-15 years of aging.

Arguably the finest red wine at this event - and that's saying something - was the 2010 Cantine del Notaio Aglianico del Vulture "La Firma." Aglianico is the great red variety of Southern Italy, but one usually reads about this grape when referring to Taurasi of Campania. But in Basilicata, there are several distinguished examples from the Aglianico del Vulture zone; wines that are rugged, yet elegant with firm, but refined tannins. I included this wine in my book Beyond Barolo and Brunello; I can now reaffirm that the Cantine del Notaio "La Firma" is truly one of Italy's most distinguished red wines after tasting this 2010 version; full-bodied with a beautifully developed mid-palate and tremendous persistence, along with balancing acidity, this is a marvelous effort, a great bottle of wine on so many levels.


So it's a year off, but I can't wait until the 2015 Tre Bicchieri tasting!

Tre Bicchieri Returns

The Gambero Rosso Tre Bicchieri tasting is back in the United States and if you're a lover of Italian wines - you need to be there. I'll be there on Tuesday, February 11 in Chicago; there is also a tasting in San Francisco on Thursday, February 13.

Gambero Rosso is the bible of Italian wines, rating wines of every type from all twenty regions of Italy. Their highest rating is Tre Biccchieri (three glasses), a designation that is awarded to the very best Italian wines of the year. Last year, a total of 20,000 wines were tasted with only 399 being given the highest award, so this is a very distinguished and difficult rating to achieve.

What's nice about these ratings are that they are not reserved merely for the most famous Italian red wines such as Amarone, Barolo and Brunello di Montalcino, but also for white wines such as Soave, Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi and Friulano as well as sparkling wines such as Prosecco and Franciacorta as well as some lovely, underappeciated reds such as Dogliani, Montepulciano d'Abruzzo and Cannonau de Sardegna (a personal favorite!).

Some of the most famous producers from Italy will be represented, including Vietti, Donnafugata, Nino Negri, Masi and Ferrari, to name only a few. But make sure you also taste the wines from underrated producers such as Valle Reale (Abruzzo), Monte del Fra (Veneto) and Cantine Lunae Bosoni (Liguria, an exceptional Vermentino) as well - you'll miss out on some great wines if you don't!

The details:

Chicago, Fabruary 11 - Union Station, 500 W. Jackson / 2-3 Media - 3-6 Trade

San Francisco, February 13 - Fort Mason Center/ 2-3 Media - 3-6 Trade


Reservations for the Chicago tasting must be made by February 7 and for San Francisco by February 10. Here is the link:


See you at the Chicago tasting on February 11!

Sauvignon Blanc- The Greatest Grape - Part Two - California and Washington

The 2011 Robert Mondavi Reserve Fumé Blanc, sourced from the winery's To-Kalon Vineyard, is world class.

This is part two of my look at Sauvignon Blanc from around the world. Part one (click here) focused on France, especially the wines of the Loire Valley, such as Touraine, Sancerre and Pouilly Fumé. This second part deals with Sauvignon Blanc from California and Washington and part three will deal with Sauvignon Blanc from New Zealand, Australia, Italy, Chile and South Africa in an upcoming post.

I call Sauvignon Blanc the "greatest grape." That's open to debate of course, but it's certainly my favorite for several reasons. First, it's a success around the world - there are exemplary examples from France, California, New Zealand, South Africa and other countries - and how many other varieties perform so well in so many different climates? Not only that, but there are so many different styles, ranging from tangy with tropical fruit flavors to edgier, more mineral driven versions. Naturally with so many various styles, there are all sorts of food pairings that work with Sauvignon Blanc; do you want to pair a white with shellfish, with halibut, with braised chicken - well, there's a Sauvignon Blanc that will work perfectly with these dishes. Any wonder why I call it the greatest grape?

Let's move on to a few examples of Sauvignon Blanc from California and Washington. Compared to the classic styles of this variety from the Loire Valley, many Sauvignon Blancs from America's West Coast tend to offer slightly less acidity with less raciness in the finish. There are some herbal notes, such as freshly cut hay, in the aromas, but the emphasis is often focused on fruit presented in a clean style. The best examples tend to be well balanced, often with beautiful aromas of spearmint as well as yellow flowers; these are very pretty wines that are a pleasure to drink or pair with lighter foods. 

From Washington State, especially in the Columbia Valley, the Sauvignon Blancs often show a little more herbal character, especially in the finish. Acidity is sometimes a bit higher than in California, but generally not as lively as those from France. Based on what I tasted, Sauvignon Blanc performs well in Washington and I hope that more producers will work with the grape, which means more research, which should lead to better and better wines.

Sauvignon Blanc is healthy in California, but clearly Chardonnay is still in greater demand and of course, the most celebrated wines still tend to be Cabernet Sauvignon. Thus for me, most examples of Sauvignon Blanc from California are fine introductions to the variety. Thankfully, there are a few wineries that have continued their long track record (more than three decades) of specializing in this variety, with the two most notable being Robert Mondavi in Napa Valley and Dry Creek Vineyard from Sonoma County's Dry Creek Valley. It is also nice to see a few small estates in Napa, such as Cornerstone, craft a serious Sauvignon Blanc.

On to the tasting notes:

2012 Chateau Ste. Michelle "Horse Heaven Vineyard" (Columbia Valley) - From the Columbia Valley in Washington State, here is one of the most attractive stylings of Sauvignon Blanc from America for less than $20. This vineyard, adjacent to the Columbia River near Paterson in south central Washington; planted in the 1970s to Sauvignon Blanc and Semillon (there is 5% Semillon included in this wine), this is a moderately warm site. Part of the wine (60%) was stainless steel fermented with the rest fermented in older French oak; to me, this was a wise decision by winemaker Bob Bertheau, as the wine offers beautiful texture with the wood notes merely adding complexity and not dominating. The aromas are quite expressive, with notes of chervil, dried hay and dried pear. Medium-bodied with lovely finesse and ideal balance, this has delicate herbal notes in the finish. Lovely food wine that I would pair with mussels or clams (there is a recipe on the winery website for braised Moroccan chicken that sounds like a fabulous match!). Enjoy this over the next 2-3 years. The suggested retail price is $15, which in my opinion makes this an excellent value. I love this wine!

2012 Joel Gott Sauvignon Blanc (California) - Joel Gott's wines are always a pleasure to drink, as they are well-balanced and offer very good varietal character. Aromas of chervil, hay and lemon peel, this is nicely balanced with good acidity and a round finish with a light herbal note. This is a fine introduction to Sauvignon Blanc and it is is non-oaked, this makes for an ideal sipping wine or one that works well with light seafood, chicken or vegetable risotto. Enjoy over the next 1-2 years. ($12)

2012 Trinchero Sauvignon Blanc "Mary's Vineyard" (Calistoga AVA, Napa Valley) - This example from the warm Calistoga district in northern Napa Valley has a brilliant yellow color with golden tints. The aromas are delicate and quite lovely with notes of fig, Bosc pear and geranium; medium-bodied, this has lovely varietal focus along with very good acidity and balance. Nice purity and subtle qualities to this wine; enjoy this over the next 1-2 years, perhaps longer. Ideal with light shrimp or scallop presentations. ($24)

2011 Stag's Leap Wine Cellars Sauvignon Blanc (Napa Valley) - This renowned producer is of course, known for their marvelous examples of Cabernet Sauvignon from Napa's Stags Leap District, but they also produce a very fine Sauvignon Blanc. This is a cuvée of Sauvignon Musque (59%), a highly aromatic clonal variant of Sauvignon Blanc and 41% Sauvignon Blanc; three-quarters of the blend was fermented in older French oak barrels with the remainder in stainless steel. Light yellow with aromas of snap pea, dried pear and hay, this is medium-full and offers good acidity and varietal focus. A bit of a subdued style, this was not made with the thought of receiving points in a magazine, but rather with food in mind; shrimp or scallops would be ideal. Enjoy over the next 2-3 years. ($26)

2012 Cornerstone Cellars Sauvignon Blanc (Napa Valley) Here is a "serious" Sauvignon Blanc, made in a style apart from the delicate, pretty approach taken by numerous California producers. Sourced from a single vineyard in St. Helena, this offers aromas of Bosc pear, vanilla and dried flowers. There are oak notes noticeable here, but they are nicely integrated and do not overwhelm. Medium-full to full-bodied, this has a rich mid-palate and a flavorful finish; this has plenty of stuffing and nice texture. This is 14% alcohol, but proprietor Craig Camp tells me that this is a result of the local terroir of this site to ensure proper ripeness. This is a stylistic wine of excellent quality. Enjoy this over the next 2-3 years; this needs very rich seafood such as halibut or swordfish (Camp recommends crab or lobster). ($30)

Now we come to two very special producers of Sauvignon Blanc in California, estates that have made this variety a focus of their portfolio. I am speaking of Dry Creek Vineyards in Sonoma County and Robert Mondavi Winery in Napa Valley. Below are notes on some of their most famous examples of Sauvignon Blanc - or do you call it Fumé Blanc?

2012 Dry Creek Vineyard Fumé Blanc (Sonoma County) - Dave Stare, founder of Dry Creek vineyard, was the first vintner to plant Sauvignon Blanc in Dry Creek Valley in the early 1970s; this wine has been produced since 1972. While this wine used to be somewhat aggressive in its herbal character, today's versions are slightly toned down, yet still offer excellent varietal character with delicate herbal notes. The 2012 has aromas of freshly cut hay, chervil and a touch of hay, is medium-bodied and has very good persistence and acidity. Think of this as a kinder, gentler style of Sauvignon Blanc, one that is well made and meant for lighter shrimp and scallop presentations; this is also very appealing on its own. Drink over the next 1-2 years. ($14, hard to argue with the price).

2012 Dry Creek Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc (Dry Creek Valley) - Blended with 10% Sauvignon Musque, this is a sleek, elegantly styled Sauvignon Blanc with beautiful varietal character. Offering aromas of grapefruit, fresh hay and yellow flowers, this is ideally balanced and has a delicate finish with a light earthiness. This is nicely made in a white Bordeaux style; enjoy over the next 2-3 years with most seafood. ($16, again, hard to fault this price.)

2011 Dry Creek Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc "DCV3 Vineyard" (Dry Creek Valley) - Like the two other Dry Creek Vineyard wines above, this was aged and fermented solely in stainless steel. But unlike those wines, this is a more assertive wine, richer on the palate with more obvious herbal overtones; this is definitely made in a Loire Valley style. Intriguing aromas of bell pepper, jalapeño, freshly cut grass and chervil. Medium-full, this has a lengthy, complex finish with strong notes of green pepper. Excellent persistence and good acidity. This would overwhelm delicate seafood, so pair this with cuisines that can stand up to the herbal notes in this wine; I think this would be ideal with some Mexican (think cilantro) or Indian dishes. Enjoy over the next 2-3 years - perhaps longer. ($25 and worth every penny.)

When Robert Mondavi established his winery in Oakville, Napa Valley in 1966, he was determined to make Sauvignon Blanc one of his top priorities. He borrowed the term Fumé (meaning "smoky") from the famous Sauvignon Blanc-based wine, Pouilly Fumé; this would be his inspiration, but his version would be a product that spoke of Napa Valley. Today winemaker Genevieve Janssens continues Mr. Mondavi's vision in the Fumé Blancs she crafts. Here are notes on two of these wines.

2012 Robert Mondavi Fumé Blanc (Napa Valley) - A blend of 87% Sauvignon Blanc and 13% Semillon; 64% of the juice was barrel fermented; the wine was matured for six months in 60-gallon French oak barrels. Bright, brilliant yellow with beautiful varietal aromas of Bosc pear, a hint of basil and freshly cut grass. Medium-full with very good concentration, very good acidity and notable persistence. Nicely balanced with excellent varietal purity, this is a delicious, refreshing wine! Just perfect with shrimp or clams; enjoy over the next 2-3 years. ($20)

2012 Robert Mondavi Fumé Blanc Reserve "To-Kalon Vineyard" (Napa Valley) - To-Kalon, translated from the Ancient Greek as "the highest beauty" (a fitting name, especially if you've ever seen this site!), is situated directly behind the Robert Mondavi winery; it is one of the most beauitful and treasured vineyards in all of Napa Valley. Over half of the grapes in this wine are from a block that was planted in 1960, which many believe is the oldest planting of Sauvignon Blanc in Napa Valley. Given this sort of breeding, one would expect a wine of marvelous character and this wine delivers on every level.

A blend of 98% Sauvignon Blanc and 2% Semillon; 100% fermented in French oak barrels (29% of them new), matured for ten months in barrels. Brilliant light yellow; aromas of white flowers, green tea, marjoram and a hint of vanilla - very distinctive! Full-bodied with excellent concentration, the mid-palate is quite rich and elegantly presented. Excellent persistence, very good acidity, nicely integrated wood notes and outstanding complexity. A combination of superb fruit and impeccable winemaking by Janssens, who clearly has made a wine that pays tribute to its Loire Valley roots, but is, first and foremost, a Napa Valley classic. The word great is overused these days, as it is tossed around like confetti; instead, I will rate this wine with the most approrpriate term that comes to mind - this is an extraordinary wine! Easily one of the finest Sauvignon Blancs I have ever tasted from Calfornia (or anywhere), this is world-class! Enjoy over the next 5-7 years; this should be especially fine paired with roast chicken, ahi tuna or pork medallions. ($40)

The Slow Wine tasting, an event featuring more than 50 Italian producers pouring their wines, will be held in Chicago on January 29 at Spiaggia (900 N. Michigan). There will be two tastings - one for the trade and media from 1-5 PM, while there is a consumer event from 6:00-8:30.

This walk-around tasting is based upon the Slow Wine Guide, which honors the best producers of Italy, especially those that craft wine according to environmental sensitivity and eco-sustainable practices. There are producers from every region in Italy and they have been noted for various recognition, ranging from the best values in Italian wines to overall excellence for their type to finally the Snail award for a producer's wine that interprets the Slow Wine philosophy in categories such as territory, environment and identity.

Thus anyone attending this event will have the opportunity to taste a wide array of the latest releases from Italy, ranging from Pinot Grigio and Friulano from Alto Adige and Friuli to textbook reds such as Dolcetto, Barbaresco and Barolo from Piedmont. Among the producers pouring their wines at this event will be Planeta (Sicily), Anna Maria Abbona (Piedmont), Giovanni Rosso (Piedmont), Grifalco (Basilicata), Pieropan (Veneto) and dozens more. There will also be producers from regions such as Emilia-Romagna, Lazio, Umbria and Marche, whose wines do not often receive the acclaim they deserve.

The 2014 Slow Wine Guide will be available at the tasting. Note that for the consumer event, the book is included in the ticket price of $45, while at the afternoon tasting for trade and media, the guide will be available for purchase.

Here are the links with information on registering for this event:

Trade

Consumer

I hope to see you on the 29th at the Slow Wine tasting!

Sauvignon Blanc - The Greatest Grape? (Part One)

A Three Part Series on one of the World's Greatest Wine Grapes

The title of my post is of course, debatable. It's simply impossible to name one grape as the greatest. Just to my own way of thinking, there are times when I think the finest grape is Gewurztraminer or perhaps I go with a red variety such as Pinot Noir or Nebbiolo. Others maintain that Riesling is the world's finest and you won't find much of an argument from me on this matter.

But I'm going with Sauvignon Blanc, if only for the fact that there are so many great examples from so many corners of the globe. Of course, the Loire Valley in France - especially with the marvelous examples of Sancerre and Pouilly Fumé - is the reference point for this variety. Then you have Marlborough Valley in New Zealand with its gooseberry-laden versions; another great Southern Hemisphere zone for Sauvignon Blanc is the Leyda Valley in Chile - truly underrated wines!

California has some lovely examples from Sonoma and Napa that of course, take a back seat to the more renowned reds produced there, while South Africa is home to some notable Sauvignon Blancs that are truly vibrant. Let's not forget northern Italy, especially in Friuli and Alto Adige and there are also some expressive Sauvignon Blancs from Australia as well.

So I'll be celebrating the world's great Sauvignon Blancs in this three-part series, with this initial post focusing on France, with the remaining two posts dealing with California/Washington and then the rest of the world (New Zealand, South Africa, etc). There are several varieties that perform well in numerous countries, but I honestly don't think there are as many complex, beautifully structured wines from so many places as there are with Sauvignon Blanc. 

So on to France and its beautiful examples of this great variety. 

LOIRE VALLEY
Mention Sancerre and Pouilly Fumé to wine lovers and there is an instant connection with the Loire Valley and the Sauvignon Blanc grape. These are the two most famous versions of this variety in the Loire and all of France and they care certainly among the most celebrated versions of this variety anywhere in the world. These two appellations are at the furthest eastern reaches of this region in eastern Central France (as a reference point, the Muscadet zone is situated at the western edges of the Loire Valley, near the Atlantic Ocean).

I find that these two wines are quite different in character, with Sancerre often being a cleaner, more "pure" expression of Sauvignon Blanc with Pouilly Fumé being a bit more aggressive in the aromas (Fumé means "smoky) and in the finish. While both offer traces of minerality, it is Pouilly Fumé that for me, has a more distinctive note of this trait, along with more of a wet stone nuance in the aromas. Depending on the vintage and producer, the best versions drink well for 5-7 years, though some lighter versions need to be consumed earlier, while other more powerful versions can drink well a decade after their release.

Other Sauvignon Blanc appellations in the Loire Valley include Menetou-Salon, Quincy and Touraine. These wines are not seen much outside of France, but there are a few importers bringing in these wines to America. I recently tasted very fine versions of all three (notes below); each has its own unique set of characteristics and make for a fascinating comparison of how Sauvignon Blanc performs in the Loire.

OTHER PARTS OF FRANCE
There are a few other areas in France where 100% Sauvignon Blanc wines are made (please note that I am not including Bordeaux in this study of the variety, as most of those wines are actually blends of Sauvignon Blanc and Semillon - lovely wines, but quite different). In the western Rhone Valley, the appellation of Cévennes is home to medium-bodied, very distinctive 100% Sauvignon Blancs that fly under the radar.

A bit south of Bordeaux in the Southwest-Armagnac region, Sauvignon Blanc is one of several white varieties planted here; these are medium-bodied, elegant versions of Sauvignon that are simple and direct, offering very fine varietal purity.


Tasting notes (in order of suggested retail price; the first two wines are outside of the Loire Valley, while the final wines are all from the Loire).

2012 Domaine de Gournier Sauvignon Blanc (Indication Géographique Protégée Cévennes) - This wine is from the Southwest-Armagnac region in far southwestern France. Light yellow; aromas of melon, passionfruit, eucalyptus and freshly shucked corn. Medium-bodied with very good acidity and distinct herbal notes of basil and chervil in the finish. Clean, flavorful and well balanced over the next 1-2 years. I think this would pair beautifully with Oriental chicken or pork with peapods. At $12, this is an excellent value. (Robert Kacher Selections)

2012 Domaine du Tariquet Sauvignon (Cotes de Gascone)
The Cotes de Gascone is in southwest France in the Midi-Pyrénées region. Straw/light yellow; aromas of melon, a touch of mint and a hint of freshly cut grass. Medium-bodied, this has good acidity and is nicely balanced. Well made, this is a straightforward wine that is a nice introduction to the variety - I'd be quite pleased to be served this at a restaurant as a house white (what's also nice is the very reasonable 12.5% alcohol). $14 (Robert Kacher Selections)

2012 Domaine des Corbillieres (Touraine)
Light yellow; aromas of Anjou pear, chalk, wet stone, chamomile and a touch of eucalyptus. Medium-full with very good concentration. Richly flavored finish with very good acidity, a subtle note of minerality and notable persistence. Enjoy over the next 2-3 years. Excellent value at $17.

2012 Domaine de Cabotieres (Touraine)
Straw; aromas of freshly cut hay, lime, marjoram and even a touch of pastry cream. Medium-full with very good concentration. Very good acidity and persistence, this is quite stylish ( no oak aging, as with most of the wines here) and will drink well for three to five years. Quite a lot of character for only $18! (Robert Kacher Selections)

2012 Philippe Portier Quincy
Straw/light yellow; aromas of dried pear and dried herbs - a bit closed now. Medium-bodied with very good concentration. A bit lean and austere, this has good acidity and a distinct minerality in the finish. Give this a bit of time to round out - best in 2-3 years. For now, pair with a vegetable terrine. $22 (Robert Kacher Selections)

2011 Domaine Assadet Menetou-Salon
Bright, deep yellow; aromas of capsicum, passion fruit, wet stone and a touch of honey. Medium-full with very good concentration. Very good acidity and notable persistence, this is a very expressive wine that is old-fashioned Loire white at its best! Enjoy over the next 3-5 years. $25 (Robert Kacher Selections)

2012 Chateau de Sancerre Sancerre
Brilliant light yellow with golden tints; aromas of Anjou pear, a hint of gooseberry and a note of hay. Medium-bodied, this has good ripeness and is cleanly made; there is good acidity and the overall balance is impressive. Fairly straightforward, this is easy-drinking and will show well for 2-3 years. $29 (Terlato Wine International)

2012 Thomas & Fils Sancerre "Les Creles"
Straw; lovely aromas of Bosc pear, chamomile and elderflowers. Medium-full with very good concentration. Clean and very well made with very good acidity and beautiful balance. Lovely as a food wine or on its own. Enjoy over the next 3-5 years. $30 (Robert Kacher Selections)

2012 Domaine Seguin Pouilly Fumé
Straw/light yellow; expressive aromas of lemon peel, chamomile and wet stone. Medium-full with very good to excellent concentration. Rich mid-palate, excellent complexity and varietal purity. Lengthy finish with notable persistence and very good acidity. A classic styling of Pouilly Fumé - outstanding! Enjoy over the next 5-7 years. $30 (Robert Kacher Selections)


Next post: Sauvignon Blanc of California and Washington State


Text ©Tom Hyland