You say Garnacha, I say Grenache

Given that so many people want to learn a great deal about new types of wines these days, it can be frustrating when the marketing people want to dumb things down and continue to tell us about the same products again and again. So it was nice to receive an email from a wine company, asking me if I was interested in tasting three examples of Grenache; even better was the fact that they were from three different countries: Spain, France and the United States. Naturally, I said yes to the offer; it was a nice way to learn about this lovely variety.

Grenache - or Garnacha - as it is known in Spain - is a variety that delivers wines with moderate tannins, good acidity and often a nice assemblage of brown and red spices. It's not the big, super ripe style of red you might be used to from Cabernet Sauvignon or a Shiraz from Australia, so prepare for that. Wines made from this grape tend to be subdued with a nice earthiness that makes them wonderful partners for stews, lighter games, certain preparations of duck and other similar dishes.

The majority of plantings of Grenache is in Spain (Garnacha Tinta is the official name here) and the version I tasted was the 2010 offering called The Show from Calatayud in the northeastern sector of the country. Bright crimson in color, this has inviting aromas of raspberry, clove, mulberry and nutmeg - there's a group of aromatics you won't find in most red wines!. Medium bodied, this has tart acidity, modest tannins and good persistence, while the finish has a pleasing subtle spiciness. While I'd like a bit more punch at the end, a bit of food, such as a pork chop or meat stew will help complete this wine. Also I can't criticize a wine as well made as this for $13. This is a delighful version of Grenache and it certainly offers a lot of character for the money (especially when compared with most examples of Malbec at the same price).

The second Grenache I tried was the 2010 Shatter from the France's Roussillon area in far southern France. This wine is a collaboration between California winemakers Joel Gott and Dave Phinney. It's medium-full with intriguing aromas of cooked meat, myrtle, plum and Queen Anne cherry; this has slightly richer tannins along with more obvious oak. This nicely displays the sensual, earthy side of Grenache; it's also a bit bold and has a bit too much oak influence. This can be enjoyed now, but it will be better in 3-5 years. It's priced at $30 and while the price is not extravagant, I'd would have liked to see this come in some $5-$7 less, which would make this wine more appealing to a lot more people.


Finally there is the 2010 Joel Gott "Alakai" from California. Gott has been producing wines under his own label since 1996 and has a nice array of products, ranging from Pinot Gris to Pinot Noir to Riesling from Washington State. This wine is a Rhone blend with Grenache representing 77% of the blend, while varieties such as Syrah, Mourvedre and Petite Sirah make up the remainder of the mix. Bright ruby red, this has lovely aromas of red raspberry, vanilla and a hint of bacon fat. Medium-full, this is nicely structured with very good depth of fruit, good acidity and notable complexity. This is a nicely balanced wine to enjoy over the next 5-7 years; this would be excellent paired with duck breast or many bistro dishes. ($30)


Fall is here and cold weather is coming, so why not try Grenache for something different with the heartier meals you'll be enjoying?

These wines are represented by Trinchero Family Estates of St. Helena, CA.

Back Home to Pine Ridge

Whenever I taste the wines of Pine Ridge Vineyards, it's like old home week for me. I recall tasting the initial release of their 1978 Rutherford Cabernet Sauvignon and throughly enjoying the classic style of this wine, one that displayed admirable balance along with a nice sense of place. Here was a new Napa Valley estate that could stand alongside some of its more famous neighbors.

Over the past twenty years, I've enjoyed many wonderful wines - white and red - that were crafted under the leadership of founder Gary Andrus. A former Olympic skier, Andrus was a kind-hearted man who was always a positive thinker, one who foresaw greatness - and realized it. Gary befriended me early on and I recall him giving me a big bear hug at a restaurant in Napa Valley one evening, this after not seeing him for a couple years.

I loved this guy like a brother, so I was shocked to hear the news a few years ago that he had passed away. I don't recall the circumstances, but he was much too young and had too much untapped energy to devote to his winery.

Thankfully the winery has maintained their high level of quality after Andrus' death, as Stacy Clark continued to fine tune and improve on these wines, especially the district series of Cabernet Sauvignons. These wines, from Pine Ridge estate vineyards in Rutherford, on Howell Mountain and at their winery plantings in the Stags Leap District in southern Napa Valley, are the signature offerings of the company; they're classy wines that really speak of their origins. Balance has always been the key with these wines, which is one big reason why I have always loved these offerings so much. For me, bigger isn't necessarily better - in fact, it generally isn't better at all. What impresses me is varietal character and elegance, two characteristics that define the Cabernet Sauvignons of Pine Ridge.

Today, Pine Ridge is guided by Michael Beaulac, who serves as general manager and winemaker; he joined the winery in 2009 after working in the California wine industry since 1989. The recent 2012 harvest was his 23rd in northern California.

Beaulac's first efforts with Pine Ridge Cabernet Sauvignon have been released over the past several months of 2012. I'll get to these shortly, but let me first tell you about the 2011 Chenin Blanc / Viognier, a delightful dry white that has been a bit of an innovation for the winery. Early on, Andrus produced a Chenin Blanc from a top grower in Napa Valley, but when that fruit became unavailable, he sourced Chenin Blanc from the Clarksburg area. This was always a nice effort, off-dry with tasty melon, apple and lime fruit. But soon, Viognier was added to the blend (the fruit comes from the Lodi district in central California) and the wine took on an added dimension. The 2011, a melange of 79% Chenin Blanc and 21% Viognier, is a lovely wine with an appearance of straw and just a hint of copper; the aromas are quite inviting with perfumes of lime, honeysuckle (clearly from the Viognier) and magnolia blossoms. Medium-bodied with very good concentration, this has beautiful ripeness, very good acidity and a flavorful, nicely balanced finish.

This is a delicious wine that was given no oak treatment, so as to heighten the aromatics and varietal charms of the two varieties. This is refreshing and very appealing; the winery recommends this with a flavorful Thai curry or a sushi dish such as a spicy tuna roll and I'd be hard pressed to think of a better pairing. Best of all, this retails for $14, which makes this a notable value, given not only the complexity and elegance, but also the amount of character in this bottle for not much money. Congratulations, Michael!


Now on to the bottlings of Cabernet Sauvignon from Pine Ridge. There is a Napa Valley bottling that is a blend of fruit from several districts, primarily Rutherford and Stags Leap; there is 76% Cabernet Sauvignon with 14% Malbec, 6% Merlot and 4% Petit Verdot. The 2009 is the current release and it's a handsome, well-balanced wine with inviting aromas of black cherry, black plum and cocoa powder; medium-full, this has good ripeness, polished young tannins and good acidity. It is approachable now, but it will be better in another two to three years as the fruit tones down; it's meant for peak drinking in 7-10 years. This has nice varietal purity and it is unmistakably Napa Valley in its flavor profile. ($54)


As for the district Cabernet Sauvignons from 2009, I've tasted two releases, each representing their origins well, meaning they are two very different wines. The Rutherford Cabernet Sauvignon is comprised of 75% Cabernet Sauvignon, 13% Malbec and the remainder a mix of Petit Verdot, Merlot and Cabernet Franc. This has a beautiful bright ruby red appearance with a light crimson edge; the aromas are of black cherry, clove, damson plum, red licorice and cumin. Medium-full with very good to excellent concentration, this is beautifully balanced with lovely complexity, very good acidity and impressive persistence. This definitely has rich tannins, yet they are held in check; this is a wine to cellar, as it is structured for peak drinking in 10-15 years. ($80)

I've saved the best for last. The winery's Stags Leap Cabernet Sauvignon has always been a favorite of mine and in reality, this wine expresses this producer's concept of Napa regionality as well as any of their products. This is 100% Cabernet Sauvignon, which is somewhat typical of the Stags Leap District, which yields wines of softer tannins than those from Howell Mountain or Rutherford; there are textbook aromas of morel cherry, raspberry, purple iris and a touch of vanilla. This has a generous mid-palate, excellent persistence, silky tannins, good acidity and notes of sweet chocolate in the finish. This is a beautifully balanced wine (I know, this sounds like a broken record with this producer's Cabernet Sauvignons) with signature supple tannins as well as notable varietal purity.

I love this wine, not only for its elegance and precision, but also because the winemaker has crafted a wine that speaks of its origins; there's no statement to be big, bold or super ripe, just in order to attain a higher rating. This is a very classy wine that is approachable now, but is clearly structured for peak enjoyment in 10-12 years, perhaps longer. I give this wine my highest rating of 5 stars - outstanding! ($80)

Up in heaven, I'm sure Gary Andrus is proud of what the proprietors of his winery have accomplished; that is, if Pine Ridge wines are served in heaven. If not, God is missing out on some great wine!

Simply Italian Returns

One of the finest Italian wine events is returning soon to New York City, Chicago and Washington, D.C. It will be held in those cities on October 15, 17 and 18, respectively and if you're an Italian wine lover living in or near those cities, you need to be there for an unparalleled day of Italian wine tasting and education.

I've been involved in moderating a seminar for this event for the past three years and I'm excited about the seminar on the wines of Collio I'll be leading in Chicago. There will also be a seminar on the wines of the Veneto that day in Chicago, as well as a seminar on Federdoc, the agency that oversees DOC, DOCG and DOP regulations; things are changing rapidly with these designations and this seminar, taught by Riccardo Ricci Curbastro, will be of invaluable assistance to anyone who wants to better understand today's Italian wine.

That same seminar will also be offered in New York City along with a special presentation on "The Legends of Italian Wine," featuring such Italian wine producers as Masi, Pio Cesare, Antinori, Argiolas, Mastroberardino and Michele Chiarlo along with another five great producers; Gloria Maroti Frazee of the Wine Spectator will moderate this seminar. After this, the seminars on Collio and Veneto will be offered.

There will be a gala tasting of hundreds of the finest Italian wine estates from the breadth and width of the country that will be held in the afternoon at all three cities.

Information on the Simply Italian events can be found here.

Please note that seating at each seminar is limited and you must register to assure your spot. To do so, contact Jessica Celona at 305-937-2488 or info@ieem.usa.


Looking forward to seeing you at Simply Italian in mid-October!

Italian Wine Dinner - Past and Present

My next Italian wine dinner will take a look at how Italian wines - white, red and dessert - age. We will taste current and older vintages of some very special Italian wines, which will be paired with the excellent cuisine of Chef Robert Reynaud at Vivere at The Italian Village in Chicago.

Here is the menu:

1st course: Almond and Lychee Sformato with Apple and Fennel Salad

2009 Pieropan Soave Classico "La Rocca"

2004 Pieropan Soave Classico "La Rocca"

2nd course: Quail "Ballantine" with Mushroom Tortelli, Tuscan Kale and Pickled Beets

2006 Le Chiuse Brunello di Montalcino Riserva

2001 Le Chiuse Brunello di Montalcino Riserva

3rd course: Slow Braised Short Ribs with Polenta and Root Vegetables

2007 Masi Amarone Classico "Costasera"

1990 Masi Amarone Classico

4th course: Toasted Pumpkin Seed Créme Brulée

2005 Brolio Vin Santo del Chianti Classico

1998 Brolio Vin Santo del Chianti Classico

The price for this dinner will be $130 per person, which includes tax and gratuity. Considering that the cost of the Le Chiuse Brunello Riserva is approximately the same price for one bottle, the total charge for this dinner is quite reasonable. 

Please note that this dinner will be at a single table in Vivere and will be limited to ten people. Thus it is important that you need to contact me as soon as possible to reserve your seat, as this will no doubt fill up very quickly.

If you are interested in attending, contact me, Tom Hyland, by email at thomas2022@comcast.net and I will let you know about payment options. You will be required to pay me before the dinner to reserve your seat. Please do not contact Vivere or The Italian Village - you need to contact me.

Tuesday, October 9

Vivere at The Italian Village

71 W. Monroe, Chicago

7:00 PM

I look forward to seeing you at this special dinner, one we will all remember for quite some time, as we celebrate the best in Italian food and wine over the past twenty plus years!

A Treasure Trove of Great Wine Writing

Not too many years ago, dozens - perhaps hundreds - of daily newspapers across America featured a wine column. Most papers hired a writer to compose a column that would inform the public about the latest trends in wine or perhaps offer a few suggestions about what wines would be perfect for an upcoming holiday meal.

Some papers with large circulations even hired freelancers to write an occasional piece that would give readers a different take on their primary wine writer's viewpoint. I know this for a fact, because for a little more than seven years, I was a freelance wine writer for the Chicago Tribune. It was at the time a highlight in my career and I still think of it that way.

Well, what a difference a few years make! Today of course, dozens of newspapers in America have folded. Others that have survived the digital age have had to tighten their belts in order to stay in business. That meant that the "fat" was trimmed and for most of these print publications, the reality was that the wine column - or at least their own wine columnist - had to go.

Thankfully, a few papers still do have an original wine (and spirits) column and a few even feature exceptional writing. You'd be hard pressed to find a better wine writer in America today than Eric Asimov at The New York Times, but given the Times' track record with wine writing, maybe that shouldn't come as a surprise. For forty years, this paper has been the one that tens and hundreds of thousands of wine lovers have turned to for the latest on the world of wine. That Asimov's work is still widely read today amidst the vast wasteland of wine blogs and online articles speaks well not only to his talent, but also the journalistic standards of his employer.



So it is with great excitement that we can now enjoy a brief history of some of America's best wine writing in the just-published The New York Times Book of Wine: More than Thirty Years of Vintage Wine Writing (Sterling Epicure, New York, NY; 592 pages, $24.95). This is a book that anyone - beginner or thirty-year wine lover - should study. For me, reading just a few of these articles felt like sitting by the fireside with a comfortable sweater on a cold winter's night - this has that same relaxed feel. But of course, reading this book is a great deal more stimulating!

We get a total of 125 articles from 29 different authors; the articles take us around the world of wine, from California to continental Europe and South America; there are also pieces about wine hardware (the first article in the book is a clever piece by Eric Asimov entitled "The $410 Corkscrew"), the language of describing wines and of course, some excellent articles about pairing wine with food.

Campania vineyard scene (Photo ©Tom Hyland)

What I love about the book is the tone taken by the writers, all of whom are well versed in wine, yet never take themselves too seriously. There are some marvelous pieces by Frank Prial, the paper's first regularly featured wine writer, about winespeak. In one column, he writes about the need by some people to describe a just-opened bottle and how impossible it is to avoid that individual's ramblings ("the stuff is inescapable, it's right there on the table in front of you..."). In a companion piece, he writes of an imaginary cliché expert who talks of how winemakers "craft" wines and how full-bodied wines are described as "mammoth" and "be-hemoths." Other writes are featured with their take on the specific language of wine.

While there is technical information in the book, that largely remains in the background, as the writers constantly keep things engaging. Read the pieces by the late R.W. (Johnny) Apple, one of the paper's most beloved writers; he paints pictures of the places he visits as well as the people he meets. His articles about Nicolas Catena of Argentina and two partners that became remarkably successful in Puglia a few years back are beautifully written and charming. Reading these, one doesn't think of points or high ratings in a wine publication, but rather, the unique qualities of these individuals. In today's world of instant recognition where a wine's acceptance is too often based on a sound bite, this quality of wine writing is sorely missing.

There are several short pieces by Florence Fabricant, who devises food pairings for the wines written about in any particular week. These are nicely organized and as an added bonus, also feature the recipes. One of her pieces deals with choosing just the right wine for the bitterness of radicchio in a dish. It's probably not something many of us think about too often; her thoughts on the subject are quite valuable. What a nice touch by editor Howard Goldberg (who wrote about wine for the paper in the 1980s) to include these brief articles!

Earlier, I mentioned that I thought Eric Asimov is the best wine writer in America today; there is sufficient evidence in this book to support my claim. What I admire about Asimov is that he writes not only with great knowledge, but he tends to use a matter-of-fact approach. He can discuss the most famous, most in-demand wines of the world and talk about them without fawning over them. In his job, he is invited to some pretty dazzling affairs, yet he never treats them as monumental tastings or moments that changed his life. This approach helps the average reader - whether wine novice or professional - connect with Asimov, as his common sense attitude helps everyone better understand that we are, in the final analysis, merely discussing a bottle of wine.

Personally, I love Asimov's work as he is a lover of traditional wines; the super ripe, international style favored by a few influential wine publications, is not a quality the author seeks out. This is evident in several articles in the book, most noticeably in a piece entitled "Finessed and Light: California Pinot Noirs with a Manifesto." The subject of this article from 2009 is about several winemakers who were (and are still) making Pinot Noirs that reflect lower alcohols, are aged for a shorter time in wood and display finesse; this approach a 180-degree turn from some of the most highly decorated examples of this variety in California. "Food and wine's role at the table is seemingly what divides these stylistic camps," Asimov writes. He goes on to ask if wine is meant to be a partner with food or if it should be enjoyed on its own; Asimov includes quotes from some of these producers on this topic as well. It's a brilliant summary of an important subject in today's wine world, not just regarding California Pinot Noir, but any number of wines from various parts of the globe. What is the real role of wine?

As with any good writer, Asimov admits his outlook may not be what another person believes. It's not a question of right and wrong, as one person may love a particular wine that someone else passes on. But how nice that Asimov can clearly think for himself and take this approach. After reading this article, you wonder if a wine journalist living in California would have had the honesty to write a similar piece.

There are all sorts of people today who call themselves "wine writers." No need to dwell on this subject - enough said. So especially for these individuals, but in reality, for everyone that wants to learn more about the wines and spirits of the world and recall what excellence in wine writing was all about - and still is in small doses these days - I strongly recommend purchasing a copy of The New York Times Book of Wine. For me, this is one of the most important wine books of the last thirty years - it's that good.

P.S. I've only read a couple dozen of the articles in the book so far. I'm going to take my time, because like a great bottle of wine - I don't want it to end!