Reflections on Wine

Trimbach and Thai Food

2012-01-24T15:15:00.000-06:00

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Back in November, I wrote a post about pairing Rosé Champagne with Thai food. I love Rosé Champagne and think it accompanies a wide array of foods, so I'd thought I'd see how well it partnered with Thai cuisine. The results were spectacular- great wines and wonderful food.

As that worked so well, I'm going to take a look at other wines from around the world and see how well they marry with Thai food. So I thought I'd do focus on the wines of Alsace this time around as these whites are recognized as arguably the ideal wines to accompany Thai cuisine. And what better way to do this than to sample this food with the wines of Trimbach?

One of the most renowned houses in Alsace, Trimbach was established in 1626 (yes, almost 500 years ago!) and is located in Ribeauvillé, where members of the 12th generation of the Trimbach family - namely brothers Pierre and Jean - manage the company on an everyday basis accompanied by their father Bernard and uncle Hubert.

Like most wine houses in Alsace, Trimbach produces a wide variety of wines that represent the array of grape varieties in the region. Muscat and Pinot Blanc are produced, but the emphasis is on three varieties: Pinot Gris, Gewurztraminer and Riesling. Several examples of each of these are produced, ranging from a regular bottling to single vineyard offerings.

Along with two friends, I tasted out four Trimbach wines with the Thai food; three Reserve offerings - Pinot Gris, Gewurztraminer and Riesling - along with a special selection Riesling known as Cuvée Frédéric Emile. The Reserve line is really quite notable, especially given that these wines are retail priced at $25 each. The Pinot Gris (2006 vintage) is quite dry with a rich mid-palate and big finish - this is not like most Pinot Gris (or Pinot Grigio) produced elsewhere. The aromas are of dried pear, apple peel and yellow flowers and there is very good acidity. This wine showed very well and can be enjoyed for another 2-3 years.

I adore Gewurztraminer and this 2009 Reserve bottling did nothing to dampen my desire of this variety. The aromas are textbook - lychee and yellow roses - and thankfully, this is not as perfumed as some examples of Gewurztraminer. Medium-full with plenty of appealing spice in the finish, this has lively acidity and is quite forward and even a bit fat on the palate - this is so delicious right now! This wine just jumps out of the glass and welcomes you with its fragrances and spicy flavors and I can't quite figure out how they made a wine this good for only $25!

The 2009 Riesling Reserve is also an excellent wine, but this is a very different style than the Gewurztraminer. While the Gewurztraminer is quite forward, the Riesling is lean and subdued. It's got lively acidity and light touch of minerality (what we used to label as "steely" in a Riesling). There are beautiful aromas of lime, melon and white peach and the wine just sort of glides across your palate, while the finish is long and dry. This is fine now, but it will open up and reveal greater complexities with another 2-3 years and it should still be drinking well in another 5-7 years.

As for the Cuvée Frédéric Emile Riesling (this from the 2005 vintage), this is one of the most distinguished wines from the producer, a selection of grapes from several vineyards including the Grand Cru sites Geisberg and Osterberg. The grapes are picked later than normal, giving them maximum ripeness and flavor, without sacrificing much in the way of acidity and to preserve varietal purity, the wine is aged solely in steel tanks, as the Trimbach brothers believe that wood aging does not add anything to this wine. Medium-full with a rich mid-palate, this has a very long finish with lively acidity and a hint of ginger in the finish to go along with the notes of apricot and chamomile in the aromas. This is a big wine with excellent complexity, yet it is always balanced and never over the top. Showing beautifully now, it should drink well for another 7-10 years. The Cuvée Frédéric Emile is a very limited wine, which helps explain the $75 price.

As for the wine and food pairings, as I wrote above, the white wines of Alsace are classic partners with Thai food and this particular night confirmed that quite well. We ate at Siam Country, one of my favorite BYOB hangouts in Chicago and tried a variety of dishes from spring rolls to satay to ginger pork to chicken with noodles and green curry. Each of the wines worked very well with virtually every dish; particularly good pairings were the Gewurztraminer with the ginger pork, the Pinot Gris with the chicken with green curry and the Riesling with the spring rolls. If I had to choose one or two wines for an entire Thai meal, I'd go with the Riesling and the Gewurztraminer; the former for its richness as well as its subtleties in playing up to the food, while the Gewurztraminer accentuates the spice in the dish. I'm not sure I'd want to play up the heat of a curry dish, so in this instance, the Pinot Gris would be the ideal match, while the Frédéric Emile Riesling clearly could stand up to any of these dishes and was particularly good with any presentation of chicken or pork.

Of course, you don't have to have Thai or Oriental cuisine to enjoy with these Trimbach wines. Many preparations of pork, veal, chicken or vegetables or quiche work beautifully with these wines. That's one of the secrets of the great white wines of Alsace, especially when they are rendered by the Trimbach family!

The wines of Trimbach are imported nationally by Palm Bay.

Slow Wine Tastings

2012-01-20T15:07:00.001-06:00

Great news for lovers of Italian wines! Several dozen of Italy's finest producers will be participating in upcoming tastings in New York and Chicago to celebrate the inaugural English language version of the 2012 SlowWine Guide.

The Slow Wine Guide is a new publication that rates Italian wine producers in a slightly different way than most of its other counterparts. There are three ranking determinations used by the authors of the guide: The Snail, which identifies a cellar that has distinguished itself through its wines according to the Slow Food philosophy, The Bottle, given to cellars that show a consistently high quality throughout their range of wines and finally, The Coin, an indicator of great value.

The list of participating producers reads like a Who's Who of Italian Wine Estates. Here is a list of just a few of the producers who will be pouring wine at these tastings:

Planeta (Sicily)
Antonelli (Umbria)
Fattoria Selvapiana (Tuscany)
Fattoria di Felsina (Tuscany)
Isole e Olena (Tuscany)
Luigi Einaudi (Piedmont)
Giovanni Rosso (Piedmont)
G.D. Vajra (Piedmont)
Le Vigne di Zamo (Friuli)
Pieropan (Veneto)

The New York trade tasting will be held on Monday, January 30 from 2-6 at the Metropolitan Pavilion at 125 W. 18th Street (there is a press briefing from 1-1:45).

The Chicago trade tasting will be held on Thursday, February 2 from 1:30-5:30 at Spiaggia, 980 N. Michigan Avenue.

There will also be a tasting for the public in Chicago that same evening from 6:00-8:30 also at Spiaggia. The cost is $30 per person for Slow Food members and $35 for non-members.

For information on how to register go to this page.

New and Distinct from Italy

2012-01-19T12:27:00.000-06:00

Thoughts on some of the most enjoyable - and affordable - Italian wines I've tried over the past few months...

Marchesi Pancrazi S. Donato 2010 (IGT Toscano Rosso)- Think Tuscany and you probably think Sangiovese if it's a red wine, correct? Well so did Vittorio Pancrazi when 3300 vines identified as Sangiovese were planted at his estate in Montemurlo, west of Florence. The trouble was that the vines were actually Pinot Noir, something that was not discovered for more than a decade!

Undaunted, Pancrazi went ahead producing Pinot Noir and has since planted several of the best Dijon clones of this variety. He has also included Pinot Noir on another property of his named San Donato and to accompany that variety, he has also planted Gamay. The result is a delighful wine named S. Donato, a blend of 50% Pinot Noir and 50% Gamay. To make as elegant and as charming as wine as possible, the Pinot Noir is vinified in a traditional way, while the Gamay undergoes carbonic maceration, just as Gamay is treated in Beaujolais.

This 2010 version is a very appealing wine, full of fresh strawberry and bing cherry aromas and flavors; medium-bodied, this has tangy acidity and very light tannins. It's fine served at room temperature, but I find it even more enjoyable if you chill it for 20 or 30 minutes in the refrigerator before serving. This is a lovely food wine for the next 2-3 years; pair it with an array of things from young cow's cheese to roast chicken in red wine sauce. It's also nicely priced at $19, making this an excellent value. (Imported by Empson, USA)

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Donnachiara Greco di Tufo 2010 (DOCG) - Greco di Tufo is one of the great whites of Campania; produced from the Greco grape named for the Greeks who colonized this part of Southern Italy some 2000 years ago. The wine, along with Fiano di Avellino, is produced in the province of Avellino - also known by its historical name of Irpinia - some 25 miles east of Napoli. This version of Greco di Tufo from this excellent producer has every element you'd want to find in this wine. Medium-bodied with beautiful aromas of fresh lemon, quince and magnolia, this is medium-bodied with ideal balance, very good acidity and a long, flavorful finish with a distinct minerality. Enjoy this over the next 2-3 years with clams, shrimp or scallops. At $20, a wonderful value! (Imported by Michelangelo Selection, Manhasset, NY)

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Vistorta Merlot 2007 (IGT Venezia Giulia) - Merlot just doesn't get the respect it deserves these days, be it from California or France. As far as Italy, Merlot is something of an afterthought for most consumers, but there are some famous examples from Tuscany as well some notable versions made in Friuli. One of the loveliest from this northeastern region is the Vistorta bottling from Conte Brandolini d'Adda; this estate located in the province of Pordenone. Medium-full with aromas of red cherry, fennel and thyme, this has a delicate herbal streak that is common with cool-climate Merlot. The tannins are moderate and there is good acidity as well as impressive depth of fruit. Food rounds out this wine quite nicely, especially veal, lamb or an aged cheese. Enjoy this over the next 5-7 years. Very nicely priced at $25. (Imported by Palm Bay)

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Bucci Rosso Piceno "Pongelli" 2009 (DOC Rosso Piceno) - For some time now, Bucci has been recognized as one of the premier producers of Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi for both its regular and sublime riserva bottlings. But they also produce beautiful red wines from Marche, in this case from the Rosso Piceno zone. The Pongelli is a 50/50 blend of Sangiovese and Montepulciano aged for six months in older oak casks (thus the wood influence is minimal) that is medium-bodied with lovely aromas of bing cherry and strawberry jam. Tannins are moderate, while the acidity is precise and there is very good persistence. This is a nicely balanced, easy to drink wine with a subtle touch of spice; overall the wine offers beautiful complexity. Ideal with pork, veal, beef or pastas with bolognese sauce; it could even work with rich seafood such as tuna or bass. This is a marvelous value at $23. (Imported by Empson USA)

A Unique White from Puglia

2012-01-12T12:37:00.000-06:00

Although I've said it before, it bears repeating that while the Italian wine industry is unique, the main reason is that growers all over the country work with indigenous varieties. In a world where more and more products - be it wine, food, or whatever - start to become similar, it is wines made from varieties such as Dolcetto, Lagrein, Friulano, Greco, Fiano and hundreds, perhaps thousands of others that stand out as products that reflects the true legacy of the land. These are wines that reflect the soul of the farmers that work with these varieties.

While I've tasted thousands of wines made from indigenous varieties over the course of my 50 trips to Italy, I'm always finding new ones. Recently, I tasted a white wine from Puglia that I had never sampled. The wine is from Masseria Li Veli and it is made entirely from the Verdeca variety.

Masseria Li Veli is located in Salice Salentino in southern Puglia and has begun a special project called "Askos" for limited production wines made from varieties that are threatened with extinction; Askos is a wine jar and is the symbol for this project. The first red is from the Susumaniello variety and now we have a white, Verdeca.

This initial release is the 2010 and the wine is a blend of 90% Verdeca and 10% Fiano Minutolo; the designation is IGT Valle d'Itria. Deep yellow in appearance, due to skin contact, the wine has aromas and flavors of tangerine - this is quite dominant in the nose and very attractive - as well as dried pear and yellow flowers. Medium-full, the wine, aged solely in steel tanks, has a rich mid-palate and a long and flavorful finish with very good acidity. Displaying excellent complexity, this is a delicious white with lovely balance and style. I'd pair this with a variety of foods, from sea bass to roast pork or chicken. It is tasting out great now and will offer a great deal of pleasure for the next 2-3 years. For $18, this is a remarkable wine and an excellent value.

Lest you think that wines such as this are meant only for those looking for something very unusual, this is a real-crowd pleaser and I'm sure that people who like Chardonnay with little or no oak would love this wine. Bravo to Masseria Li Veli for producing this wine and to Dalla Terra for importing this wine into the United States!

The Importance of the Printed Word

2012-01-10T14:01:00.001-06:00

After a bit of a holiday break to refresh the batteries, it's time to get back to posting on this site. For this first post of the year, I'm taking a break from my standard wine recommendations and am publishing an essay. I'm on my soapbox here, so I hope all of you readers don't mind, but I think this is important. I'll be back to my regular wine choices the next time out.

I'm certain most of you already know this, but wine magazines are being replaced by other avenues, from blogs to iPads. There are several reasons for this, most importantly the economic crisis of the past few years. This is true in many industries, so this isn't just affecting the wine publications, as auto, fashion, sports and movie magazines are either going out of business or publishing smaller issues. There isn't the advertising money out there like there was just five years ago, so there are problems.

Of course, one big reason for the demise of some wine publications is the increase in wine blogs. As someone who makes a living writing about wine (I've written for wine publications for 13 years now), I accept that fact, which is quite clear, as I also publish a wine blog. It's good exercise for me and it's a nice avenue for me to write about certain wines I couldn't write about in a print article.

People today are also turning to apps on smart phones to learn about wine. Technology has changed many industries and it's no different with wine. I actually welcome new ways in which to learn, because, let's face it, there is no one way to take in new knowledge. It's how much you can learn, however, from an application versus an article in a magazine, that makes the difference.

What all of this is leading me to is this. I recently read an article from The World of Fine Wine, a first-rate wine publication from England (full disclosure - I write for the magazine), that made me think about wine in a new light. The article is by Terry Thiese, one of the best-known importers of wines from Europe; the wines he represents have received tremendous critical praise. In this article, which you can read here, Thiese talks about several factors in wines that may or may not equate to quality; these include issues such as concentration, balance and deliciousness (I love that word!). Thiese talks about what these terms mean to an individual wine drinker, so this is an article about how each person's set of values affects his or her appreciation of wine.

Thiese also talks about yields in wine and how we have been led to believe that the best wines are made from the smallest yields. Many in the wine business accept this as almost a universal truth, but Thiese warns against taking this literally. He makes a solid argument about this and several other issues and it's insight such as this from the author that makes this such a valuable article. I think it's something every wine drinker should read.

I point this out because Thiese flies in the face of accepted wisdom on yields. People who believe that the best wines are always made from the smallest yields also tend to believe that the wines that receive a 95 or 96-point rating from an influential wine magazine are "better" than similar wines that garner 87 or 88 points. It's the "bigger is better" argument. As one winemaker told me once, "Bigger isn't better, it's different." Amen to that! It's like saying the best player on a basketball team is the tallest player - maybe he is, but then again, maybe he isn't.

This is another argument against rating wines with points. I've written about this before and I'll do it again, but for now, my point is this. By not reading wine magazines - indeed, how long before there are no wine magazines?- but instead using technology such as applications on smart phones, you learn about wine via soundbites. It's the quick and easy way to learn about wine- these apps will tell you that a certain vintage was better than another or that one part of a wine region is better than another, yet how can one judge individual style or preference this way? Wine is a sensory experience, so what you sense in a glass of wine is probably going to be different than what I encounter.

It's neat that there are new ways to learn, but preferring those over the traditional print publications can have its drawbacks. How does one learn about the appassimento method used to produce Amarone, one of Italy's most powerful reds, on a smart phone? How can you get a feeling for the difference between a Champagne from a large house as contrasted with that of a small grower while using a phone application? You learn about these subjects and hundreds more in the wine world over time, by reading articles and tasting wines. Points don't tell you about the style of wine and a phone app doesn't give you much insight. You have to put in the time to understand these things - there are no shortcuts.

So use your smart phones if you will or look on the internet for some reviews, but if you want to truly understand wine, take the time to read a wine article in a reputable wine publication that was written by someone who knows a good amount of the subject and then edited by another person who also knows about the value of good writing. In the final analysis, there is no substitute for that, with one important exception, tasting the wines themselves and making your own judgment.

Text and photo ©Tom Hyland

A Lovely Holiday Present from Mumm

2011-12-21T09:50:00.000-06:00

Most Champagne houses, no matter how large or small, produce several different examples of Champagne. From the basic non-vintage (or multi-vintage, if you will) to the ultra premium tete-de-cuvée, producers make a Champagne for various tastes at various price points. I'd like to tell you about a particular bottling from G.H. Mumm, one of the largest and most famous of all Champagne houses.

While Mumm produces a typical house style non-vintage Brut as well as a premium cuvée called René Lalou, they also craft a lovely wine called Mumm de Cramant that is somewhat of an unknown gem. The wine is a Blanc de Blancs, meaning it is 100% Chardonnay; in this instance, all of the grapes are from vineyards owned by Mumm in the village of Cramant. This is a famous village in the Cote des Blancs section of the Champagne area; the vineyards Mumm uses are rated as Grand Cru, the highest-rated plantings in Champagne, so the quality of these grapes is exceptionally high.

The wine is also known as a Cremant - "creaming" - meaning this wine has less pressure than a traditional Brut. Mumm refers to this style of Champagne as a "demi-mousse"; indeed the wine has only 4.5 bars of pressure as compared to 6 bars with most Brut, resulting in a softer, rounder finish. The wine was once known as Cremant de Cramant, but it is now known as Mumm de Cramant, certainly an easier name to remember and one that includes the producer's name.

I've enjoyed this wine on previous occasions, but this was the first time in several years I had tasted this and I was very impressed. My notes focus on aromas of lemon peel, Bosc pear, graham cracker and yellow flowers. Medium-full, with impressive structure, the finish is quite long and features a distinct note of minerality. Above all, I love the complexity of this wine, as well as its delicious fruit and stylish nature. I've liked this wine before, but for me, this particular bottling was the finest I've tasted to date. I would pair this with a number of foods, from shellfish (shrimp or oysters would be ideal) to Asian cuisine to lighter poultry. The price for this limited Grand Cru Champagne is $75, which I think is quite fair.

One other note - the top right hand corner of the label is folded. This symbolizes a French tradition of a special gift which would be delivered in person along with a card or envelope that had its top corner folded down. What a nice tradition, especially at the holidays and what a lovely wine from Mumm!

A Solid One-Two Punch from Carmen

2011-12-20T16:32:00.000-06:00

I've thoroughly enjoyed the wines of Carmen, Chile's oldest wine producing company, since I was first introduced to them a little more than a decade ago. From the medium-priced riserva line of wines to the premium Gold Label offerings, this winery has always delivered the goods.

I've recently tried the new releases from Carmen, which have seen a new label design for the Gran Riserva wines as well as a new national importer, Trinchero Wine Estates from California. There are six wines in the Gran Riserva line, which represent Carmen's dedication to the various terriors of Chile. Thus the Chardonnay is made from grapes sourced from Casablanca Valley, while the Sauvignon Blanc is from the cool Leyda Valley, only a few miles from the Pacific Ocean.

The Carmenere comes from estate vineyards in Colchagua Valley, a few hours south of Santiago, while the other reds (Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Petite Sirah) are all sourced from Carmen's beautiful hillside estate in the Alto Maipo, about a 45-minute drive southeast of Santiago.

My two favorite wines in the Gran Riserva lineup are the Cabernet Sauvignon and the Merlot, both from the 2009 vintage. Of course, the Alto Maipo is famous for Cabernet Sauvignon, as the wines here have good richness, lovely varietal character as well as soft tannins, which gives them an immediate drinkability. This Cabernet Sauvignon has good persistence and balance and along with the textbook varietal flavors of blackcurrant and red cherry, there are also notes of tobacco and dark chocolate.

The Merlot is the real surprise, however. Merlot gets a lot of bad publicity these days for various reasons, but if more were made like this, you'd read a lot more positive notices for the grape variety. Black cherry and black plum fruit dominate this wine and the tannins are polished as you might expect. This is very drinkable now and will be a fine partner for most red meats - especially lamb - for the next 2-3 years. Both of these wines are $15 retail (all the Gran Riserva wines sell at the same price) and these two reds in particular are excellent values.

Carmen has also released the 2007 vintage of their top red, the Gold Label Cabernet Sauvignon. I've been enjoying releases of this wine for the past six or seven vintages and have rated this wine as either excellent or outstanding every year. The wine is made from a beautifully sited vineyard that was planted in 1957; thus this 2007 release is from 50-year old fruit! Yields are low, the fruit is deeply concentrated on the palate and there is excellent persistence. As you might imagine, a wine this rich and young needs a bit of time in the bottle; I enjoyed this for dinner the other night at Al Dente restaurant in Chicago with a pork chop with poblano and red peppers, portobello mushroom and chipotle tomato coulis and as you might imagine, it was a heavenly pairing! The wine definitely needs at least 60-90 minutes of breathing time for enjoyment for dinner tonight; however the wine is just an infant and will improve for another 10-12 years, when it will be at its best.

The price on this gorgeous Maipo Valley Cabernet Sauvignon from Carmen is $50. I can guarantee you that a Cabernet Sauvignon made from 50-year old vineyards in Napa Valley would cost you at least $75 and probably more like $100 or $125 a bottle. This is another excellent value.

Here's to the consistency of Carmen wines, be it at $15 or $50 a bottle. This remains one of Chile's finest producers, I'm quite pleased to say!

A True Classic from Napa Valley

2011-12-19T13:47:00.000-06:00

Mayacamas Winery, located 2000 feet above the Napa Valley floor

Throughout Europe, the wine producers that are discussed in great detail are the ones that have been producing their offerings for many years. While you do hear about new estates from time to time, it's the firms that have been around for decades or even centuries that are something of a reference point in Italy, France and other European countries.

Yet in California - especially in Napa Valley, it's the newest of producers that receive most of the headlines, while the wineries that have been around for 30 or 40 years (admittedly, a long time in Napa Valley history), seem to be overlooked. Think about it, you hear about the latest hotshots from Napa all the time, but when's the last time you read an article about a winery such as Joseph Phelps or Sterling? Did their wines suddenly decrease in quality? The answer is no, but these companies are not as fascinating or hip to many of today's wine writers, who are always looking for the newest viticultural temple funded by some multi-millionaire who hires the most expensive - and cult-driven - winemaker available.

So, I'm quite pleased to sing the praises of a real Napa Valley veteran- Mayacamas Vineyards. The winery was established way back in 1968 (talk about ancient history for this part of the viticultural world!) by Bob Travers, who today, is still making the wines. Named for the mountain range that serves as a border between Napa and Sonoma, the winery is situated some 2000 feet above the Napa Valley floor. This is a hidden gem, located in a place where coyotes, cougars and bobcats dwell. The vineyards, located at elevations ranging from 1800 to 2300 feet above sea level naturally yield very small crops, ensuring wines of structure for long-term aging.

Vineyards at Mayacamas

The other night I tried the current release of the winery's signature Cabernet Sauvignon from the 2006 vintage. Blended with 14% Merlot and 1% Cabernet Franc, this is a mouth-filling wine. But lest you think this is a typical blockbuster Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon, consider several things. First, the wine is aged for 18 months in large American oak casks and then 12 months in French 60-gallon oak barrels. This is quite different from the standard practice these days in Napa, where many producers use only French barriques (225-liter) for an aging period of 14-20 months. By using larger barrels for his wines, Travers focuses on the special fruit flavors he derives from his vineyards; my notes on the wine focus on perfumes of black currant, eucalyptus and blackberry.

The wine has a beautifully developed mid-palate with layers of fruit while the finish is quite long with excellent persistence, good acidity and nicely integrated oak. The overall balance is ideal and the complexity is marvelous. My best guess is that the wine will improve dramatically over the next few years and be at its best in 12-15 years. The price is $65 a bottle and when you consider all the $100- $150 bottles of Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon out there (especially from the new hotshots), this is an excellent value (consider also that less than 1400 cases of this wine were produced). I'd even be tempted to call the $65 price tag for a wine of this breeding and class a real steal!

Bob Travers, here's to you during this holiday season for continuing to produce classic Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon for more than 40 years and for maintaining a sane price point. It's a lesson some of the new kids on the block need to learn.

Meet Mariano Buglioni

2011-12-17T15:29:00.000-06:00

Mariano Buglioni (Photo ©Tom Hyland)

Traveling to Italy is all about making discoveries. This includes new wines, new ristoranti and trattorie and of course, meeting producers I have never encountered. During my most recent trip to Valpolicella, I met Mariano Buglioni, the owner of the eponymous estate in San Pietro in Cariano, located in Valpolicella Classico; rarely have I met such a generous man.

Buglioni, formerly in the textile industry, produced his first wines from the 2001 vintage. He currently crafts several types of wine, from the famous - Amarone and Valpolicella - to the unique - such as a sparkling Molinara and a 100% Garganega IGT. He has also made a name for himself with his eateries, especially with his osteria located on Corso Porta Borsoni in the heart of the old section of Verona. Mariano took me there early on a Sunday evening in November and we could barely move, finally finding a spot at the end of the bar. Mariano told me that I should see the place during the week, as I wouldn't be able to find a place at all. Given how little room was available that evening, I'd hate to see the place even more crowded!

Mariano also took me to see another osteria of his, this one in the town of Santa Maria de Negrar. This one is larger and thankfully, less crowded, but just as engaging. There is a beautiful bar and display of all the foods, which are all marvelous. One of my favorites is the tartina con paté di olive nere con pancetta (a small paté made of black olives served with pancetta); there are several other lovely comfort foods as well. You can take a look at these at the website link here.

Mariano wanted to show me these places, but first and foremost, he wanted to show off his wines with a special dinner, so we went to his locanda, located in the countryside of Valpolicella just a short walk from his agriturismo in Cariano. This is a warm dining room with rich earth tones with food specialy created for the Buglioni wines. I enjoyed five wines with various courses and each wine was extremely well made with excellent balance and ideal structure. The finest wines for me were the 2007 Valpolicella Ripasso "Il Bugardo" and the 2006 Amarone. The former offers ripe black plum and raspberry aromas with very good depth of fruit and peristence and will drink well for 5-7 years; I gave this wine an excellent rating. The Amarone, from the first-rate 2006 vintage has beautiful black cherry and myrtle aromas is is quite simply, mouthfilling! This is a powerful wine (17% alcohol), but nicely balanced with proper acidity along with excellent persistence. I would expect this outstanding wine to be at its best in 12-15 years. Incidentally, the Amarone was served with a veal medallion- a simple pairing that brought out the best in the wine and the food.

All in all, I had a great evening in the company of my new friend Mariano Buglioni. We spent five hours together; this after he drove that morning from Bern, Switzerland, a seven-hour journey! How he found the energy to do this in one day amazed me, but like many Italians, he is a gracious person who saw an opportunity and was more than happy to spend some time with me. Thank you Mariano for your hospitality and for your beautiful wines. A big thank you also to my friend in Chicago, Aldo Zaninotto, who represents these wines in America.

To learn more about the wines, the agriturismo or the osterie, go to the Buglioni website.

A 30-Year Love Affair with Champagne

2011-12-09T13:20:00.000-06:00

Tom Verhey, Proprietor, Pops for Champagne, Chicago (Photo © Tom Hyland)

"Champagne has the ability to change how you perceive life. I think it really does. Champagne is magical." - Tom Verhey

If you want to be the best at something, you have to work at it every day; everyone's heard that before, but it remains as true today as it was hundreds of years ago. Tom Verhey is no doubt a subscriber to this theory and it's been 30 years of dedication that has made his establishment, Pops for Champagne, arguably the finest Champagne bar in America.

I sat down recently to conduct an interview with Verhey; I wanted to pick his brain about why Pops for Champagne has been so successful for so long. I wanted to know about the types of customers that he attracts (skewed towards professionals, females, consumers in their 30s and 40s) and how he continues to draw them in during these economically challenging times. Again, it's a lot of old-fashioned work on his part and that of his staff.

Verhey, who in a former life sold camera equipment, was in Vienna, Austria in 1980 and entered a Champagne bar called Reiss. Intrigued by the outer appearance of the building and the concept in general, he decided then and there to open a Champagne bar back in the Chicago area, where he lived at the time. He opened his inital bar at a northside location in Chicago in March, 1982 and moved to his current location in the River North section of downtown Chicago at State and Ohio in the fall of 2006.

While he was successful at his initial location, Verhey said that was too much of a "destination", while the current spot is perfect for attracting a bigger crowd, be they theater goers, conventioneers or just business people leaving their offices for the day. While his business has taken a "hiccup" as he puts it, given the recent economy, he has been able to keep customers coming in, thanks in no small part to his pricing. "We are able to compete against the dwindling dollars because we actually give value to our customers. People still feel that this is a place they want to spend their money, because when they walk out having spent $50 or $400, they got their money's worth."

Display of Champagne at street-level bar at Pops (Photo by Tom Hyland)

What keeps the customers coming back of course, is the outstanding selection of Champagnes and other sparking wines (the lists can be seen here). The task of assembling such an impressive grouping of wines is the responsibility of Beverage Director Craig Cooper, whom Verhey calls "probably the most Champagne-savvy person in America." Cooper and Verhey definitely prefer the smaller Champagne houses, so while you can order a selection from Mumm, Perrier-Jouet or Veuve Clicquot here, you're much more likely to select from outstanding firms such as Gosset, Ruinart, Bollinger or Krug or from an amazing array of small grower-producers such as Cédric Bouchard, Pierre Moncuit or Agrapart & Fils, to name only a few. The list is handsomely presented and organized into numerous categories, encompassing classics such as Blanc de Blancs and Rosé, but also sub-divided into three styles of non-vintage Brut, a nice touch and one that is extremely helpful to customers looking for a particular style of Champagne.

There are also a few dozen sparkling wines from around the world that are not Champagne; these include Prosecco and Franciacorta from Italy, Cava from Spain as well as some lovely examples from California and Oregon and even some from other wine regions in France, such as Alsace, Burgundy and the Loire Valley. Verhey knows the importance of offering sparkling wines other than Champagne on his list; "You have to have sparklers; sparklers start at $30 a bottle, while Champagne starts at $90 a bottle, so you need that bridge. "You've got to have a bridge with this type of business to carry them (the customers, ed.) from the start of their education and taste and experience into Champagne."

Staff training, conducted by Cooper, has given the employees here a strong foundation in their everyday work routine. "You come in here and ask a question about anything with food and beverage and the staff is going to know the answer," Verhey notes. "That the staff is so well educated reflects the fact that they care enough about the business. It takes time, but it eventually makes the difference."

After 30 years, Verhey is proud of what he's done so far and what he is currently accomplishing at Pops for Champagne. "We're trying to bring people's image of Champagne to a more approachable level, so it doesn't have to be a coat and tie, special occasion type of thing," he remarks.

As for advice to consumers as to why they should drink Champagne more often, here are a few final thoughts from Verhey. "Champagne is all about life and energy and quality and it brings those elements to the glass. People are starting to understand that it's part of their life also.

"There are so many different styles of Champagne, from the ultra-dry to the sweeter to the Chardonnay-infused to the Pinot Noir-infused. It's an everyday wine now."

Rosé Champagne and Thai Food

2011-11-29T14:33:00.000-06:00

The holidays are upon us, so it's time to celebrate with some special wines. For me, Champagne is the wine for celebration and while I love just about any example, it's Rosé Champagne that is my favorite. There are a few reasons for this; certainly the color, ranging from light copper to bright strawberry, is a festive one. Then there is the richness of the Pinot Noir in the blend, generally giving the wine a fuller, more luxurious feel in the mouth.

To kick off the holidays in style, I tasted out three first-rate Rosé Champagnes with two friends the other night at a Thai restaurant on the north side of Chicago. There are dozens of Thai eateries in Chicago that are BYOB, so the chance to taste some great wines with some beautiful food seemed to be a natural. The restaurant I selected was Siam Country, a typical small dining room with a wide array of selections. This has become comfort food for me over the years and given all the flavors in these dishes, I thought it would be fun - as well as educational - to pair Rosé Champagnes with this cuisine.

So I'm dividing this post into two parts: first, my notes on the wines. Second, notes on how the wines paired with various foodstuffs.

Perrier Jouet Blason Rosé (non-vintage)

Light copper color; aromas of Bosc pear, strawberry and orange rind. Medium-bodied with very good concentration. Good but not high acidity, as the finish is quite round and elegant. Quite flavorful with subtle notes of sweet red spice, such as nutmeg. Good persistent stream of bubbles. A very fine introduction to Rosé Champagne for those who are not familiar. A lovely food wine. Excellent (Suggested retail price: $75)

Gosset Grand Rosé (non-vintage)

Light copper color; aromas of strawberry, dried orange, currant and dried pear with a light yeasty note. Beautiful stream of very small bubbles- quite persistent. Full-bodied, this is a powerful rosé with an incredibly delicate feel on the palate - impeccably balanced! Beautifully tuned acidity and a long, rich finish. Wonderful complexity. Outstanding (SRP $80)

Bollinger Rosé (non-vintage)

Deep copper/reddish color; aromas of fresh red cherry, biscuit, currant and dried pear. The house style of Bollinger, which I describe as old-fashioned, with plenty of fruit as well as a toastiness is quite evident in this wine. Very fine bubbles with a persistent stream. Full-bodied, this has a generous mid-palate and a lengthy finish with excellent persistence and vibrant acidity. Plenty of class and breeding on display in this marvelous wine. Outstanding (SRP $100)

The Food

Tomkar soup

Tomkar is a classic Thai soup made with coconut milk, lemon grass and ginger (among other ingredients). We selected chicken for our soup. This was a perfect match with the Perrier-Jouet, as that wine has lower acidity than the others. Thus the round finish of that wine meshed beautifully with the creaminess of the soup.

Appetizers - Spring Rolls and Pot Stickers

The spring rolls, served with a mild plum sauce were best with the Perrier-Jouet, while the pot stickers were a marvelous match with the Gosset, as the earthiness and high acidity of this wine (Gosset Champagnes do not undergo malo-lactic fermentation and thus have a more vibrant acidic note in the finish) picked up on the richness of this appetizer.

Entrées- Duck breast with ginger and carrots/ Noodles with green and red curry (separate entrées)

I had enjoyed the duck breast on previous visits to Siam Country, but it was never as beautifully prepared as it was this evening (in fact, my colleagues commented on how this was the best meal we had experienced here). I always pair duck with Pinot Noir, so why not a Rosé Champagne with duck? It worked beautifully, as this was a rich duck preparation with a crispy skin that paired superbly with the Bollinger - this was a perfect match. It also tasted out great with the other two wines as well.

As for the curry dishes, my friend Bob preferred the Bollinger with the red curry, though he also liked the softer Perrier Jouet as well, while he favored the Gosset with the green curry entrée.

I had never brought Rosé Champagne to a Thai restaurant before, but I was confident this evening would be a success. It was, thanks to the lovely richness and balance of these Champagnes, which were complex and flavorful enough to stand up the the spiciness of these dishes. I hope many of you will think about Rosé Champagne with Thai food or perhaps with many other cuisines as well. Experiment and have fun this holiday season!

P.S. My friends and I prefer light to mild spicy Thai food, so these wines were ideal. If you opt for a spicier preparation, you would definitely want a Rosé Champagne with a high level of acidity such as the Gosset. As with all wine and food pairings, it's about marrying similar flavors and textures.

I Colori della Valpolicella - My 50th trip to Italy

2011-11-17T08:41:00.000-06:00

Vineyards at Masi, Sant'Ambrogio in Valpolicella (Photo ©Tom Hyland)

I've just returned from my 50th trip to Italy and enjoyed every day as usual. This time my visits took my to Toscana for an event for Chianti Rufina as well as Valpolicella for one special tasting as well as visits at several other producers.

Instead of the usual wine recommendations or essays about Italian wine, this post will feature a few of my photos of Valpolicella. For two to three weeks in late October and early to mid-November, the vineyards and forests of Valpolicella are transformed into a sensational pallette of yellows, russets, browns and orange-tinted hues that simply capture your soul.

Vineyards near Fumane (Photo ©Tom Hyland)

While the visuals are spectacular everywhere, the colors in the eastern reaches of the Valpolicella zone (non-classico) may be the best. At Massimago, proprietor Camilla Rossi Chauvenet calls this area, "the wild Valpolicella," and after seeing the vineyards and olive tree groves at this spectacular estate, you'll most assuredly agree with her.

Massimago Estate, Mezzane (Photo ©Tom Hyland)

This time of year in Valpolicella, grapes are being dried according to the appassimento method for the production of Amarone and Recioto della Valpolicella. I was able to see this technique first-hand, but I came away more impressed by the natural beauty of Valpolicella at this time of the year. This was another way for me to discover la bella Italia - it was unforgettable!

Tenuta Maternigo of Tedeschi, Mezzane di Sopra, Tregnago

(Photo ©Tom Hyland)

A Chardonnay you'll love- taste and pricewise

2011-11-05T09:29:00.000-05:00

While I drink a lot of white wine, I'll admit to not enjoying as many Chardonnays as I should. Perhaps I've had so many examples, that I just naturally look for other types, especially the brilliant whites from Friuli and Alto Adige in Italy or Sauvignon Blanc from just about anywhere. Another reason is I never seem to find that many Chardonnays I like; either they're just too simple or they're over the top, with lots of hazelnut, almond and vanilla notes with dominant oak flavors.

Well the other night, I enjoyed a lovely Chardonnay that was a pleasant change from the types I've panned over recent years. The wine was the 2009 Clos du Val from their vineyards in Carneros in Napa Valley. Founded in 1972, Clos du Val is best known for its red wines - especially Cabernet Sauvignon - as it is located in the prime Stags Leap District. But for some time, the winery has been producing a Chardonnay from hillside estate vineyards in Carneros. This AVA (American Viticultural Appellation) is situated at the southern reaches of Napa (it also extends into Sonoma County), just north of the San Pablo Bay. Cool breezes from the bay combined with early morning fog makes this zone ideal for a cool climate variety such as Chardonnay (as well as Pinot Noir) and generally the grapes receive a lot of hang time, assuring ideal ripeness, very good natural acidity and impressive structure.

When everything comes together, as it did with the beautiful 2009 growing season, Chardonnays from Carneros combine a nice richness on the palate with a lengthy finish as well as wonderful balance. This 2009 Clos du Val Chardonnay has all of that; it's a flavorful wine with excellent complexity. So it's not the simple, light white wine that too often bores, nor is it a lush, over-oaked offering that still pops up now and then in California as well as several other regions and countries around the world.

Here are my tasting notes on this wine:

Brilliant light yellow with pleasing aromas of Anjou pear, fresh apple, cinnamon and vanilla. Medium-full with very good concentration. Very good persistence, finely tuned acidity and well-integrated oak. Harmonious finish with a touch of honey and apple pie notes. Elegantly styled wine, lovely with food and an excellent value at $25.

I mentioned this is a lovely food wine; I enjoyed this with tilapia and it was a perfect match. It will also pair beautifully with sea bass as well as many other fish; I think it would also be great with lighter poultry dishes or even a simple chilled chicken salad.

It's also worth noting the $25 price tag that I believe represents a striking bargain. There are just too many overpriced Chardonnays in California - it's that simple. So when I come across a Chardonnay this good for this price tag, I have to note that it's an excellent value- and we certainly need more of these!

One final note- if you're someone stuck on points when it comes to selecting wines or you need a designer name on the label, you'll need to look elsewhere. You'll also have to pay another $15-20 a bottle for one of those 95-point, heavily oaked Chardonnays that overpower almost any food with their big alcohol and dominating wood and spice notes. A few wine publications tend to favor wines such as these, but to me, that style of Chardonnay is an exercise in seeing how far a winemaker can push all the components in the wine. They may impress upon the initial smell and taste, but they are tiring, bloated wines.

As I said, you're welcome to those wines. For me, I'll take the 2009 Clos du Val Carneros Chardonnay- that's becuase it's got everything I'm looking for in a wine such as this and it's beautifully priced!

Terroir-Driven Whites

2011-10-31T10:09:00.000-05:00

The principle of terroir is a difficult one to precisely explain, but the main principle in explaining terroir is that wines differ according to where the grapes were grown. Thus two wines made from the same variety (or varieties) grown in sites only a few hundred yards apart, can taste entirely different.

Generally, any discussion of terroir tends to focus on red wines, often some of the world's most famous. These inevitably include the offerings from Burgundy's Cote d'Or (the holy grail of terroir), the Barolo zone in Piemonte or Napa Valley with its Cabernet Sauvignons.

Yet many white wines are also the result of terroir; certainly one can taste the differences in the great Rieslings of the Mosel or Rhine valleys in Germany or with the brilliant whites coming from Montrachet, Meursault or other communes in Burgundy as well as the amazing whites wines of Alsace.

I'd like to add two wine types to the discussion of terroir. These are Sauvignon Blanc from San Antonio Valley in Chile and Riesling from Clare Valley in Australia. I enjoyed beautifully made examples of each wine recently and it struck me that these offerings have as much to do with terroir as any of the great reds of the world. Whites rarely get the same lofty treatment many reds wines receive, which is understandable, but at the same time unfair. So I'm doing my part in taking steps to correct this situation.

The San Antonio Valley, a sub-region of the Aconcagua Valley, is located in close proximity to the Pacific Ocean; most plantings are within 8-10 miles of the ocean, while a few are as close as two miles away. This is most definitely a maritime climate as sea breezes help moderate temperatures. It can be very cool during certain growing seasons, meaning this is a also a razor's edge climate, giving a sharp focus to this wine with naturally high acidity.

Several varieties have flourished here including Chardonnay, Riesling and Pinot Noir, but to date it is Sauvignon Blanc that San Antonio Valley has become best known for. The wines offer intense aromas, but not as much gooseberry as in the bottlings from Marlborough Valley in New Zealand, nor are these wines as mineral driven as the finest Sancerre from France's Loire Valley.

Thus Sauvignon Blanc from San Antonio Valley (Leyda Valley, a sector of San Antonio, has also become an outpost for this variety) has its own signature. Aromas of pink grapefruit, melon and freshly cut hay are often present. Here are my notes on the 2010 EQ Sauvignon Blanc from Matetic. (D.O. San Antonio):

Aromas of green melon, hyacinth, Bosc pear and snow peas; medium-full with a rich entry on the palate. Good length in the finish with very tangy acidity; a sleek, delicious wine that is nicely balanced with very good complexity and balance.

This would be ideal with most shellfish; I especially love it with sautéed shrimp; the cost is $20 US retail. Other excellent Sauvignon Blanc from San Antonio (and Leyda) include two single vineyard bottlings from Casa Marin (Cipreses and Laurel Vineyards) along with Amayna, who produces both a barrel fermented and tank fermented example of Sauvignon Blanc. These two producers tend to bring out more raciness in their wines, which are often better suited with richer seafood or even certain types of poultry. (The importer of the EQ wine is Quintessential.)

Another great example of terroir in white wines emerges from the Clare Valley, located a bit north of the Barossa Valley in the state of South Australia. While Barossa is known for its excellent Shiraz, it is Riesling that has become the signature variety of the Clare Valley. Unlike San Antonio Valley in Chile, Clare Valley is far from the ocean; this has a moderate continental climate with cool to cold nights, warm to hot summer days and low humidity.

The Rieslings from here are quite dry with distinct minerality and often feature notes of petrol in the nose, which make them very different from the apple, pear and apricot aromas of Rieslings from the Mosel and Rhine Valleys in Germany. The sub-district of Watervale in the Clare Valley is an ideal zone for growing Riesling; this is where the grapes for the Kilakanoon wine is from; the particular spot is called Mort's Block and the vines here have an average age of 40 years. Here are my notes in the 2010 bottling:

Beautiful aromas of petrol, lemon peel, quince and turmeric; medium-full with very good concentration. Very good acidity and a dry finish with very good persistence. Lovely touch of minerality and stoniness in the finish, which adds to the complexity. Clean as a whistle and so delicious!

The US retail price is $20. I'd expect this wine to drink well over the next 2-3 years, but I may be a bit conservative in that estimate. There's probably no reason this wouldn't be in fine shape in another 5 or 7 years. Still, it's so tasty now that I don't know why you'd wait. This is wonderful with Oriental or Asian cuisine or seared scallops. (The importer is Old Bridge Cellars.)

Marketing Italian Wines - Here and Abroad

2011-10-27T17:40:00.000-05:00

Stevie Kim

For producers in Italy (or just about anywhere, really), the process of going from initial planting of vineyards to harvest to finally bottling the finished wine is always a challenge. Yet the actual making of any particular wine is rather easy compared to selling it. Most producers, big or small, need help getting their products out in the marketplace and that's where Stevie Kim enters in the equation.

Kim, whose official job description is Senior Advisor to the CEO of VinItaly, is changing the way Italian producers go about getting their wines noticed. For those of you reading this that are not familiar with VinItaly, this is the annual wine fair held each year in late March or early April at the fairgrounds in Verona. More than 5000 wine producers, most of them Italian, are present pouring their wines for the trade and for a day or two, the public. It's easily Italy's biggest wine fair and it's certainly the most influential.

It's been a ritual for 45 years now and as it's grown over the years, there are some producers who will tell you that things have gotten out of hand. It's crowded, noisy and just a little chaotic, especially on the weekend when the public can enter the fair and try all the wine they want for a one-time entrance fee. Kim knows the complaints and is happy to report that changes to the schedule have been made.

The format has always been Thursday to Monday - five days - with Saturday and Sunday available to the public as well as the trade. But for the 2012 edition of the fair, the schedule has been changed from Sunday to Wednesday. The public will still have a day at the fair - this will be Sunday, the official opening day, while Monday thru Wednesday will be exclusively for the trade.

I asked Kim if she received positive feedback on the change and how she thinks this will improve the business atmosphere for the buyer.

Kim: "We received great feedback. Of course, we had surveyed the producers as well as the attendees prior to making this decision. As you know, the Italians have been doing this for 45 years, so having to make that change was quite arduous. But I think at the end, everyone saw that the advantages were greater than the disadvantages.

"As you know, on Saturday and Sunday, it was very difficult to navigate not only the fairgrounds, but also the urban traffic control. I think this will help a great deal to facilitate more of a B2B atmosphere so that people can do more business.

"I think the focus now will not be quantity, the numbers, but the quality of the people attending the fair."

__________

With this change, the fair is now four days instead of five. However, she noted that there will be an opening event on Saturday that will benefit many Italian producers.

Kim: "On Saturday, we are organizing seminars dedicated to the producers. Often we have a full program of producer seminars, but they can never attend during VinItaly because they are too busy doing business. So we have decided to dedicate a couple of specialized international focus seminars. This year will be the US market and China and we will dedicate these seminars to the producers.

"On Saturday morning, we have partnered with The Wine Spectator; they will invite top 100 Italian wine producers. There will be a grand tasting event at two moments: in the late afternoon for 500 international VIPs, while the second session will be held with the same producers, but a ticketed event for 500 consumers.

"People are very excited about it, it’s two-fold, because you will have producers that are not necessarily represented at the fair grounds because their strategy is not to participate at a big fair such VinItaly. However, they are very important producers that represent Italian wine production."

__________

Kim also oversees the VinItaly US tour, which just completed its 2011 stops in New York City and Washington. She did not have as many events scheduled around the world this spring and summer, as she "tried to consolidate important points in a few events." Her next event is VinItaly China, which will take place in Hong Kong from the 3rd to the 5th of November. She says this event is a "personal objective," adding, "I want to do something more structured to unite the Italian wine producers in a more sophisticated way."

__________

Kim realizes the vast differences between large and small Italian wine producers and wants to make sure the latter have the right tools for entering the market.

Kim: "Italian producers are divided into two main categories: the large, very structured, well-capitalized producers who have been present in the United States for a very long time. They are organized and have the resources to do their own wine promotion. On the other hand, you have the consorzie, the regions that sponsor these small producers, some of them I’m afraid to say, don’t even speak English. They come to America, participate in the grand tasting events, thinking that on those dates, they will start filling out order forms and filling containers of wine to sell in America.

"Their expectations are not represented. They first have to find the importer, for example. VinItaly is an institution that represents 4500 producers, so we have to embrace the large, well-resourced producers as well as the small ones. So what we’re trying to do with the VinItaly US tour that we’re organizing is – especially for the small producers – is to try and educate them.

"This year, we have dedicated a session to the producers before they start the walk-around tasting. We try to convey to them the ABCs of the American market."

She is also making efforts to promote the women of Italian wine. She organized an opening bell ceremony of the New York Stock Exchange this past spring that featured Marilisa Allegrini and Cristina Mariani-May of Banfi and has scheduled more events. "I'm trying to give some continuity to this."

Kim: "Now we’re asking the women to represent the Italian wine industry. As you know, Italian wine producers are very creative, but also very individualistic. So what we want to do through these women is try to create some harmonious message and give something back also to the society, which matters, for these Italian women in the wine industry. We’ve chosen the American Cancer Society, so we want to continue to work with them."

__________

A few final thoughts from Stevie Kim about her job:

Kim: "What I do in every market where we showcase is try and build the Italian wine education and promotion program. I'm in the market talking to the people who have a vested interest in Italian wine sales, especially the importers. I talk to importers big and small and get immediate feedback...how we did, if they thought it was useful, how we can improve it and how we can better our promotional outpouring in the name of Italian wine education and promotion in the territory."

Simply Italian Highlights

2011-10-26T20:11:00.001-05:00

The Simply Italian tour hit Chicago this past Monday and it was a huge success, combining four seminars with a walk-around tasting featuring more than 250 wines, representing regions from all over Italy including Piemonte, Friuli, Lombardia, Tuscany, Campania and Sicily.

Here are a few of the best wines from the Monday tasting (note: this tasting was also held in San Francisco on Wednesday and Las Vegas on Thursday).

There were some great wine zones represented at this event; arguably the finest group of wines were from Collio. The 2010 Zuani Collio Bianco "Vigne" is a sumptuous blend of four varieties - Sauvignon (Blanc), Friulano, Chardonnay and Pinot Grigio - in equal amounts. This wine is aged solely in stainless steel and has lovely perfumes and balance (the winery also has an oak-aged wine with the same blend called "Zuani" - this is released later, so the current vintage on that wine is the 2009). Whichever wine you prefer, these blends from Collio display a beautiful sense of place as well as outstanding complexity. (The 2010 Zuani "Vigne" was awarded a Tre Bicchieri rating from Gambero Rosso for their 2012 guide, incidentally.)

Also impressive is the 2009 Gradisciutta "Bratinis", another Collio Bianco, this made from Chardonnay, Sauvignon and Ribolla Gialla. This is an appealing wine with wonderful balance, lively acidity and a rich, flavorful finish. It's been one of my favorite Collio blends (or blends from anywhere in Italy, for that matter), but at a suggested retail price of $22, it's an outstanding value! Robert Princic at 34 years of age is doing a wonderful job at this estate, literally a mile from Slovenia (as well as virtually next door to Zuani).

But the white wine of the tasting for me - and for almost everyone else I spoke with - was the 2008 Primosic "Klin", another Collio blend. This is a cuvée of Chardonnay, Sauvignon, Friulano and Ribolla Gialla that was aged in barriques for eight months; the oak adds texture and flavor, but it meshes ideally with the fruit - this is a perfectly balanced wine.

The initial aromas of this wine lend a sense that you will be tasting an extraordinary wine, as there are notes of honey, dried apricot, spiced pear and beeswax that combine to create quite a sensory experience. Full-bodied with tremendous complexity and an extremely long finish, this is a sensational wine! Incidentally, this particular vintage, the 2008, is my favorite example of this wine. While the 2007 and the soon-to-be-released 2009 are actually richer on the palate - and this 2008 is very rich in its own right - the cool temperatures and long hangtime from that growing season meant that the aromatics for the 2008 Collio whites were more intense than usual; when you taste this wine (and do everything you can to find a bottle), you will see what I mean. For me, the Primosic Klin is one of the three or four best white wines in Italy- and that is saying something! A must-buy. (By the way, one of my long-time friends, Bob Rohden, who has been in the business for more than 30 years and who is an admitted Francophile (though he told me that Italy has greatly closed the gap recently), said that this is the "Montrachet of Italy." I'd agree!

Few wine lovers think about rosés in Italy, but if more were made like the Guado al Tasso "Scalabrone," that would change. Produced from Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Syrah grown at this excellent Bolgheri estate near the Tuscan coast, this is quite rich with a long, flavorful finish. This is a lovely wine in its own, but I've enjoyed it with prosciutto as well as pork and chicken. The 2010 is the current release and it's delicious!

Of course, there were many impressive reds - how could there not be at an Italian tasting? I'll mention only a few: the 2006 Piccini "Poggio Teo" Chianti Classico is a 100% Sangiovese with impressive depth of fruit, while the 2006 La Togata Brunello di Montalcino is a fine example from this excellent vintage. The 2007 Pio Cesare Barolo displays the lush, forward fruit, round tannins and precise acidity of the 2007 reds from the Langhe, while the 2006 Mastroberardino Taurasi "Radici" is another in a long line of beautifully structured reds from this great Campanian producer.

One other red worth noting - one that is hardly famous, but quite enjoyable. That is the 2008 Kovic Terrano from the Carso zone in southern Friuli. Terrano is an indigenous red variety of Carso and produced a medium-bodied wine with soft, round tannins and fresh red cherry fruit with a light herbal note. This is elegant, tasty and surprisingly ageworthy - expect this to drink well for 3-5 years. This is not a wine that you'll read much about in the famous wine publications, but it's a lovely food wine (isn't that what this is all about?); it would be ideal with everything from prosciutto to risotto or lighter poultry or game birds.

Giovanni Arcari (Photo ©Tom Hyland)

Finally I want to give a shout out to several producers of Franciacorta, several of whom were presenting their wines for the first time in America. Franciacorta is the home of the finest sparkling wines in Italy; this district located south of Lake Iseo in the Lombardia region, has strict regulations on how these wines must be made. Produced in the classic method where the secondary fermentation is in the bottle (a la Champagne), the quality of these wines is very high and is improving every year.

Riccardo Ricci Curbastro poured several of his cuvées, of which my favorite was the 2006 Satén Brut, produced entirely from Chardonnay. Nicely balanced with vibrant acidity, this is a robust sparkling wine; I was also impressed with his flavorful non-vintage Rosé. Incidentally, he just received his first Tre Bicchieri for his 2007 Extra Brut. I've known Riccardo for several years, having visited his estate and also appearing on a seminar panel with him. He is a gentleman and so deserving of this wonderful honor!

I moderated a seminar on Franciacorta in the morning with six artisan producers, all starting the long journey of finding representation in America. After this seminar I can tell you that they are well on their way, at least if the audience reaction is any indication. We had a full-house for this seminar, as wine buyers, journalists and importers from Chicago and the Midwest were there to learn everything they could about these distinctive sparkling wines.

All of the wines were very well made with beautiful balance and notable richness, but the wines from three producers really stood out for me. They were San Cristoforo (San Crees-taw-for-o) with their non-vintage Brut, produced entirely from Chardonnay and Le Marchesine with their Extra Brut as well as their 2007 Rosé Brut (this wine was poured by Andrea Biatta of the winery at the walk-around tasting.) This latter wine displays tremendous aromatics of ripe red cherry, currant and carnations and has a tremendous richness and a very long finish. It is quite simply the finest Franciacorta Rosé I have ever tasted!

The third producer whose wine stood out is Andrea Arici with his 2008 Zerodossagio (the image of this bottle is at the top of this post). This is a special project that export manager Giovanni Arcari (pictured above) explained; a wine that was made from old terraced vines that had been abandoned, but were refurbished and reworked by the contadini, the farmers of the countryside. A blend of 90% Chardonnay and 10% Pinot Nero, the wine was aged for eight months in large oak casks (botti) and then almost 3 years in bottle. The finished wine is gorgeous, with aged fruit aromas along with notes of toasted bread and almond; in fact it reminded me of a late-disgorged Bollinger. Full-bodied with outstanding persistence, this is a great rendering of Franciacorta!

A Memorable Evening of Wine and Food Pairing

2011-10-20T17:09:00.001-05:00

Rachael Lowe (Photo ©Tom Hyland)

Having spent 30 years in the wine industry and being able to travel to wine regions in Italy, France, New Zealand, Chile, California and several other places, I know a few things about wine. But you soon understand that no matter how long you work at it or how many territories you travel to, you'll never know it all. In fact, the nice thing about being in your 50s (I'm 55), is realizing how little you do know and being able to accept that fact (I've talked about this with several friends my age and they all agree).

Maintaining the belief that you don't know it all will open your eyes to some amazing experiences. This past Wednesday was one of those memorable moments in my life when I enjoyed dinner at 16 Restaurant at the Trump Tower in Chicago. Rachael Lowe, the young, effervescent, engaging wine director here since mid-2010, personally selected wines to accompany my dinner.

I had asked her not to bring any Italian wines to the table, as those represent much of my work. Other than that, she was free to select any wine she saw fit. I didn't think of it at the time I ordered my meal, but I threw her a curveball, as I started with an appetizer of pork belly, while selecting yellowtail snapper for my entrée, meaning a white would come after the red. As you will read below, Rachael was more than up to the task of finding the right wines for these dishes.

Here is what I enjoyed along with Rachael's wine selections for each dish:

Amuse-bouche: Braised lamb with pumpernickel bread

Wine selection: Krug Grand Cuvée, non-vintage (or "multi-vintage" as Rachael called it)

I know what you're thinking- this outstanding Champagne could go with anything, but it was a perfect opener (how could you not have a smile on your face when the wine director brings you Krug Champagne?). The wine worked beautifully with the pork, which was served in tiny cubes and was remarkably tender.

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Appetizer: Crispy pork belly with red cabbage, pumpernickel and cider gelée

Wine selection: Jean Foillard Morgon "Cuvée Corcelette" 2009

Like many wine lovers, I just don't try enough examples of Beaujolais, so I was happy to enjoy this offering. Rachael described this wine in glowing terms and she was spot on, as this was a Beaujolais of great complexity and persistence that displayed a great deal of finesse and elegance as well as varietal character. The fruit aromas of cassis, red raspberry and strawberry were amazing and the weight and texture of this wine was ideal for this marvelous dish, which was again, very tender with subtle spice.

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First course: Squab breast with Hunter Valley foie gras

Wine selection: Domaine de la Solitude Chateauneuf-du-Pape 1999
This was clearly the richest course I enjoyed for dinner and it needed a big red; this was plenty big. I remarked to Rachael that I would love to revisit this wine in another 10 or 15 years - it's got that much depth of fruit. The ripeness and spice of this wine were perfect for the squab and the wine more than held its own with this remarkable course.

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Main course: Yellowtail snapper with quinoa, ginger curry apple purée, salsify, golden raisin caper relish

Wine selection: Nicolas Joly Savennieres "Clos de la Bergerie" 2005

To say that this unique white, made by the great biodynamic producer Nicolas Joly, was able to stand up to the snapper is an understatement; I think this wine could pair well with shark roe! Made from Chenin Blanc, this is a full-blown, powerful white with plenty of spice and grip; this should be drinking well for another 7 or 8 years. This was my favorite course, by the way, with the fleshiness and tenderness of the fish complemented so well by the sweetness of the apple purée and golden raisin relish.

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Dessert: Blackberry tart with buttermilk ice cream
Wine selection: Domaine de la Cure Monbazillac 2009
This dessert wine from southwestern France, made primarily from Sauvignon Blanc and Semillon was a marvelous finish to my meal. Deep amber in color, the wine is quite rich on the palate with medium sweetness and very good acidity. It added another dimension to this exquisite dessert.

Thank you, Rachael for the education in pairing wine with food - I learned a lot. This was truly a memorable evening!

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P.S. I would be remiss not to mention the outstanding work turned in by Chef Joseph Rose. This restaurant was operating at a high level when it first opened in 2009, but since Rose has taken the helm in the kitchen, he has taken this dining room to new heights.

The restaurant has been awarded one Michelin star, but I am still waiting for the local critics to give this restaurant its due. I believe it is on par with the best restaurants in the city, as it combines beautifully creative cuisine with a gorgeous room and extremely friendly and professional service.

P.P.S. There was an insightful article about Rachael in the July 31 issue of Sommelier Journal (read here). Rachael is well on her way to becoming a Master Sommelier; she has one more exam and if all goes well, will earn that title sometime in the summer of 2012.

I certainly wish her well in her quest. She is clearly one of the most knowledgeable wine professionals in Chicago - and easily one of the most charming!

Italian Treasures

2011-10-06T10:30:00.000-05:00

Sebastiano Rosa, winemaker, Tenuta San Guido (Photo ©Tom Hyland)

Kobrand recently conducted a multi-city tour, tasting out their impressive Italian portfolio. Impressive may be an understatement when the lineup includes such revered names as Tenute Silvio Nardi, Michele Chiarlo, Ambrogio e Giovanni Folonari, Tenuta Sette Ponti and Tenuta San Guido (the estate that produces Sassicaia). Here are a few highlights from the tasting in Chicago.

The most impressive white was a wine that has been produced for more than 30 years, but is just now being brought into the US market. It's the Michele Chiarlo Roero Arneis "Le Madri" 2010. Chiarlo has always been known for its beautifully crafted Gavi, but this wine is even better. Though 2010 was somewhat of a problematic vintage in much of northern Italy, you wouldn't know it by this wine. Offering lovely spearmint and pine aromas with excellent richness on the palate, this is a great success, especially at its $22 retail.

Also impressive from Chiarlo is the 2009 Barbera d'Asti "Le Orme". This is a well made wine every year, but the 2009 contains more depth of fruit and offers greater complexity than most recent bottlings, thank to the addition of more fruit from their famous La Court vineyard. I don't know of another Barbera d'Asti for $15 that can stand with this one.

From the Il Cabreo estate of the Folonaris, the 2008 Il Borgo, is a marvelous Super Tuscan with an emphasis on elegance and not on power. Loads of cherry and currant fruit, delicate spice, polished tannins and beautiful acidity make for a gorgeous wine with ideal structure. This is certainly approachable now, but should drink at is best in 7-10 years.

Emilia Nardi, Tenute Silvio Nardi (Photo ©Tom Hyland)

I've loved the wines from Silvio Nardi of Montalcino for years, as this is one of the most consistent estates of the area. The wines at this event were appropriately lovely, including the fruit-driven 2009 Rosso di Montalcino as well as two bottlings of Brunello di Montalcino from 2005- the normale and the Manachiara. While 2005 was not the most powerful year for Brunello, the wines from that harvest do display lovely balance; these examples from Nardi also display the precise bing cherry fruit and subtle herbal notes I always look for in these wines. Emilia Nardi has done a wonderful job at this estate over the past decade and is constantly looking to upgrade quality - she also has plans for another single vineyard Brunello to be released very soon. She's a lovely woman and a wonderful spokesperson for this district.

From Tenuta Sette Ponti, located in eastern Toscana, comes a Super Tuscan from the western reaches of Tuscany, namely the Maremma, located not far from the sea. The wine is the 2009 Poggio al Lupo, a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Alicante and Petit Verdot. You would imagine that a wine such as that would be a powerhouse, but you'd only be partly right. The wine is quite rich on the palate, but this is elegant with very good acidity and beautifully integrated oak. This is a sexy Italian red wine that is so appealing right now, but will display greater complexities in another 10-12 years - sort of like a beautiful woman!

Finally there is the matter of the 2008 Sassicaia. After all the transcendent press this wine has received over the years, how much can I - or anyone - add to the discussion? Well the 2008 is one of my all-time favorite bottlings of this wine and it's because it is one of the best balanced of any Sassicaia I've ever tasted. It's not like the wine isn't balanced in other years - the wine always offers great harmony of all its components. But the 2008 offer impeccable balance and structure that is rare even for this wine. Admittedly, this is not as powerful a wine as the 2006 or 2007, so if you favor intensity and power over finesse, you may prefer those years to the 2008. But I am a lover of balance and structure in just about any wine, especially when we're talking about Sassicaia. The 2008 is plenty big, but this year, I find a few extra layers of complexity in this wine, thanks to the ideal structure and backbone of this wine. I hope I have the opportunity to taste this wine in another 25 years (I do plan on being around that long).

All in all, a great day celebrating a superb collection of Italian wines!

Best of Italy Wine Class

2011-09-28T11:26:00.000-05:00

It's that time again, as I'm putting together a very special Best of Italy wine class in my hometown of Chicago. I've selected ten very special wines that will give everyone attending a great overview of today's Italian wine landscape. We will taste various styles of wine, from Franciacorta, the great sparkling wine of Lombardia to Barolo, Brunello and Amarone.

Among the specific wines to be tasted in this class on Friday, Oct. 21 will be:

2005 Bellavista Gran Cuvée Franciacorta

2009 Edi Keber Collio

2006 Silvio Nardi "Manachiara" Brunello di Montalcino

2007 Speri Amarone della Valpolicella Classico "Vigneto Sant'Urbano"

2007 Marcarini Barolo "Brunate"

The class will be held at Perman Wine Selections, 802 W. Washington Blvd., Chicago at 6:30 on Fiday, Oct. 21. Craig Perman operates this beautiful small wine retail shop in the West Loop, providing an excellent selection of artisan estate wines from around the world.

Note that many of the wines in this special class will be bottles that I have acquired over the past year from several trips to Italy. Some of the wines will be from the shelves of Perman Wine Selections as well.

Seating is quite limited and will be offered on a first-come, first-serve basis. There will also be some food served with the wines. This is a very special event that will cover the amazing Italian wine industry! The price is $55 per person.

If you would like to enroll in this class, please email me at thomas2022@comcast.net for information on how to sign up. This will fill early, so don't delay!

Singular Wines from Anakena

2011-09-26T15:29:00.000-05:00

Impressive new releases from Chile that I've tasted recently include two wines from the Single Vineyard line from Anakena Winery. Located in the Rapel Valley, the winery has vineyards in several areas of the country, including Cachapoal, Leyda and Colchagua Valleys.

There are several lines of Anakena wines from the basic Varietal wines to the premium Ona wines, small lot bottlings that include Pinot Noir, Syrah and blends including Riesling/Viognier/Chardonnay and Cabernet Sauvignon/Carmenere/Syrah.

Here are notes on two bottlings from the Single Vineyard series- both are suggested retail price of $14 on US retail shelves:

2010 Anakena Sauvignon Blanc Single Vineyard "Yunco Plot" (Casablanca Valley)
Located west of Santiago, Casablanca Valley is a cool climate zone not far from the Pacific Ocean; first planted in the 1980s, it is an ideal spot for varieties such as Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, Riesling and Sauvignon Blanc. Pleasing varietal aromas of spearmint, gooseberry and freshly cut hay. Medium-bodied, this has an elegant entry on the palate along with good acidity and subtle herbal notes in the finish. This is a nicely made cool-climate Sauvignon Blanc. Enjoy over the next year with shellfish or lighter chicken dishes.

2010 Anakena Carmenere Single Vineyard "Malva Plot" (D.O. Peumo)
The Peumo appellation is located in the western reaches of the Cachapoal Valley in western central Chile. Bright purple with inviting aromas of black raspberry, mocha, nutmeg and vanilla. Medium-bodied with very good concentration. Fresh and quite tasty, this is a delicious wine with well-defined varietal character, good acidity, round tannins and a distinct spiciness in the finish with notes of black pepper and cumin. Very appealing now and over the next 1-2 years. Very good value.

A few additional words on this wine. If you like Malbec from Argentina, with its spicy, peppery qualities, you'll love this wine. At $14, this delivers a lot of character and pleasure and is better than most examples of Malbec at this price. If I was purchasing wine for a steak house, I'd buy multiple cases of this wine, pour it by the glass and then watch the patrons enjoy themselves, especially as they order a second glass. It's that good! (This would also make for a wonderful everyday red for many consumers - pair it with barbecued ribs, pork chops, steaks or roasts.)

Morellino di Scansano US Events

2011-09-22T10:29:00.000-05:00

The Morellino di Scansano Consorzio will be presenting its first ever American tour with events in Chicago and New York on October 17 and 19. In each city, there will be a seminar about these wines (I will be moderating this in Chicago on the 17th) followed by a walk-around tasting.

Morelllino di Scansano is a Tuscan red that is somewhat of a secret to many Italian wine lovers. The wine is produced primarily from the Sangiovese grape, which is named Morellino (or "little cherry") in this area in southwestern Tuscany. The vineyards are close to the sea, meaning the local climate and soils are quite different from the inland wine zones of the region, such as Montalcino or Chianti. It is interesting to taste the wines of Scansano, not only for their excellent quality, but also to understand a different style of Sangiovese in Tuscany. This promises to be quite an educational experience!

The Chicago event is on Monday, October 17 and will be held at the Sax Hotel, 333 N. Dearborn. The seminar will be from 11:00 to 12:30 with the walk-around tasting from 1:00-6:00. To register for the event, please visit: http://morellinochicago.eventbrite.com

The New York event will be held on Wednesday, October 19 at the Metropolitan Pavillion at 125 W. 18th Street. This will be one of the seminars that day as part of the VinItaly US tour, which will also have a stop in Washington, D.C. on October 19.

Other seminars in New York that day will include one on social media as well as a study of Soave and Etna, two wine zones with volcanic soils (this promises to be quite fascinating!). A grand tasting will follow the seminars. (Note: there will be only one seminar - on Soave - in Washington, D.C., followed by a grand tasting.

To RSVP for the NYC events: http://vinitalyustour.eventbrite.com
For the Washington event: http://vinitalyustourdc.eventbrite.com

For more information on the VinItaly US events: www.vinitalytour.com

Simply Italian Returns

2011-09-20T10:49:00.005-05:00

I wanted to let my readers know about one of the finest Italian wine events of the year. It's the Simply Italian tour and the official invitation is just out.

The event this year will focus on wines from several regions of Italy, including Veneto, Piedmont and Tuscany. There will also be a special focus on the great sparkling wines of Franciacorta (I'll be moderating the seminar in Chicago) as well as the wines from the Grandi Marchi producers, a group of some of Italy's finest wine estates, including Antinori, Donnafugata, Gaja, Mastroberardino and Pio Cesare, to name only a few.

The tour will begin in Chicago on Monday, October 24 and then move to San Francisco on October 26 and wrap up in Las Vegas on the 27th. There will be a walk-around tasting in each city.

I've been involved with this event for several years and can tell you quite honestly that this is one of the most informative happenings for Italian wines you'll ever experience. The event is for wine trade and media only. To RSVP, email events@balzac.com

A Rosso by any other name

2011-09-14T13:07:00.000-05:00

Montalcino View (Photo ©Tom Hyland)

Thee has been a lot of commotion in Montalcino during 2011, as certain individuals want to change the makeup of Rosso di Montalcino by allowing grapes other than Sangiovese in the blend. Rosso di Montalcino, just like Brunello di Montalcino, by definition, must contain only Sangiovese - there are no exceptions.

However, these individuals want to change the regulations allowing grapes such as Merlot or Cabernet Sauvignon to be a small part (as much as 15% under one proposal) of the blend for Rosso di Montalcino. A vote was held on this matter in Montalcino on September 7 and the proposal was overwhelmingly defeated, with only 31% of the vote favoring this change. Many wine journalists and bloggers in Italy and throughout the world have commented on this, most notably Franco Ziliani in Italy at his blog vinoalvino along with Jeremy Parzen in America (here is the link to one of several posts on this subject) and Wojciech Bonkowski in Poland). Each of these gentlemen along with other noted Italian wine authorities such as Nicolas Belfrage from England, Juancho Asenjo from Spain and Kerin O'Keefe, an American wine journalist living in Italy, have all commented on the need to keep Rosso di Montalcino as 100% Sangiovese. I am in agreement with this opinion.

I wanted to share a few quotes from two vintners in Montalcino about what these wines represent. I wrote an article on Montalcino in 2005 for Drinks magazine in the US; going over my notes recently, I found some interesting remarks. The first is from Rudy Burrati, winemaker at Banfi, one of the most successful estates in Montalcino.

"The characteristics that we seek include the optimal tannic structure that is typical of Montalcino, freshness and fruitiness, and the "typicity" of Sangiovese grown in Montalcino, reflecting the characteristics of the weather, soil, and other elements."

Burrati was speaking about Brunello di Montalcino here, but it is clear that he was also referring to Rosso di Montalcino as well, at least as far as freshness and fruitiness and typicity.

The second quote is from Lamberto Frescobaldi, who produces a Rosso and Brunello under the Castelgiocondo label. I asked him if he thought Brunello might become a more approachable and forward wine over the next few years. Here is his reply:

"I don't think Brunello will ever become more forward or approachable. I do however think that wine lovers are becoming more knowledgable and open to appreciate a wine as difficult as Brunello."

These are his thoughts about Brunello; I did not ask him about Rosso.

So here you have remarks from two important producers in Montalcino, emphasizing "typicity" as well as maintaining a style of wines that are not forward and approachable. So why the need to change things? Well with Rosso, adding a small percentage of Merlot or Cabernet Sauvignon would definitely alter the style of the wine, arguably making it more appealing to a wider audience that understands the international style of wine much easier than they do a specific approach.

Consumers look to Rosso di Montalcino as a substitute for a Brunello; this is either for price ($25 for a Rosso versus $50-$70 or more for a Brunello) or for drinkability - a Rosso di Montalcino is released much earlier than a Brunello and is softer in tannins and more drinkable sooner (the current releases of Rosso di Montalcino are either 2008 or 2009, while the 2006 vintage is what is currently available for Brunello).

Whatever the reason, a consumer should expect a Rosso di Montalcino to offer that thumbprint of Montalcino - which means the characteristics of only Sangiovese. If they want to buy a blended Tuscan red, they have dozens, if not hundreds of choices, some made by these same producers in Montalcino, who can bottle a Sant'Antimo Rosso DOC or else an IGT Toscana Rosso.

The bottom line for me is this. There are thousands of red wines from dozens of countries around the world. Yes, the world is a smaller place and when it comes to wine, that too often means a style of wine that is easy for everyone to understand. So producers take the easy way out. Do that and you lose uniqueness, a sense of place.

While the majority of producers oppose the change in regulations for Rosso di Montalcino, it is a sign of the times that this matter was even presented in the first place. It is understandable however, as it's clear that the vintners as a whole have done a poor job developing and marketing the Sant'Antimo category. They realize that few consumers know what Sant'Antimo means, but everyone understands Montalcino. So they take a shortcut and try and morph Rosso di Montalcino into something it's not.

Montalcino - Rosso or Brunello - must continue to have an historical identity. That means only a single variety - Sangiovese.

A Fond Adieu to Richard Elia and QRW

2011-09-08T16:09:00.000-05:00

On Thursday, I received an email from Richard Elia, publisher of Quarterly Review of Wines, informing me that he was retiring and that the current Autumn issue would be the final one after 35 years of publication.

I have been writing for the past thirteen years for QRW; in this post, I would like to let my readers know how much I've enjoyed working for Richard during this time frame.

He gave me my first assignment back in 1998, which I'll always remember, as I was an unknown entity at the time. I had only been writing wine articles for little over a year (I began life as a freelancer with the Chicago Tribune the year before) and had not yet written an article for a national publication. My piece on Cuvaison winery in Napa Valley for QRW was my first in this vein and I took great pride in this work. Richard commented on the closing paragraph, which he thought was a bit over the top; I admit to being a bit defensive at the time and argued with him. Of course, he was right and after my initial reply, I realized I had some things to learn about writing and dealing with editors.

His comment on that first piece was one of the few he ever sent along; I can only recall two other articles I wrote for the magazine in which Richard said anything. One time he told me that he cut one paragraph as it was repetitive and in the other instance, he told me that he wanted me to make certain that I took my time writing articles. That was it - three comments (all helpful) from a total of more than 30 articles. I certainly can't complain about that, especially given a few editors I wrote for that nitpicked my work (and the work of others).

Most of my articles in fact, were published exactly as I wrote them. Not a paragraph was moved around, nor a sentence changed or even a word deleted. What more could a writer ask for? Richard clearly respected my work and in one email he even told me, "We only hire excellent writers," explaining why most articles were published without any major changes. He was telling me how much he enjoyed my writing - how nice was that and what a boost to my ego and career!

It was always an easy process getting an assignment at QRW. I would send along an email with two or three suggestions and he would reply (always in a prompt fashion, mind you) that Randy Sheahan, the editor, liked my idea for a piece on a particular subject. All I had to do was write it and have it in by the deadline, that was it. There were no suggestions from Richard about covering any particular subjects in my piece - he gave me the freedom to write what I wanted.

Another great thing about Richard was the way he paid his writers. Most publications pay upon publication, which can mean anywhere from two to four weeks after the issue is released. But Richard paid before the issue was published. I knew that if I had an article in the Spring issue, which would be released in March, I could expect a check slightly after February 1. And sure enough, I'd receive it on the 3rd or 4th. As a freelance writer, I loved that - who wouldn't?

Those are a few thoughts about our business relationship. I also need to emphasize the quality of QRW. In an era where sound bites - that is, scores - were what most people remembered about any number of wine magazines, QRW never used a point scale for wines. Most articles in the magazine featured tasting notes and once in a while, a writer might use a star rating or classify a wine as "very good", "excellent" or "outstanding", but that was it. No need to worry if a wine received 92 or 93 points (what exactly is the difference between those two scores anyway?) - you read the magazine for the articles, and in the process, learned about the great - and sometimes everyday - wines of the world and the people who made them in the old fashioned way. This was a magazine about feature articles and if you truly loved wine, you had to respect that.

Richard hated the 100 point system and often wrote about this, even in the latest Autumn issue. Here is an excerpt of what he wrote about numerical scores for wines:

"Ratings have killed wine education: consumers give themselves over to rating not reading... What numbers can't do that words can do is excite the imagination. But consumers believe this less and less and worship more and more."

Strong words, words that I am in total agreement with - I couldn't have said it better myself.

Later on in this essay, Richard shared his thoughts on other wines, sharing his lack of enthusiasm for Beaujolais ("one of the most uneventful wines in the world") as well as commenting on the outlandish prices of today's Bordeaux wines. Mentioning that this was the first Autumn issue in which the magazine did not cover the new Bordeaux vintage, he wrote:

"Why do it? Who beside the very wealthy can afford them? What have we done to deserve the current prices of Bordeaux?"

Clearly Bordeaux lovers will take exception to this, but Richard wrote what he - and a lot of wine drinkers- believe. You have to respect him for that.

It's a sad day for myself, as I'll no longer write for QRW, but life will go on for me, as I have a few other publications I'll continue to write for (although how long that will last is anybody's guess). An unfortunate sign of the times is the decline in interest in wine magazines - and many other industry publications as well. I hope that changes soon.

But it's truly a sad day for wine lovers everywhere as a classy magazine is going out of business after 35 years. I'm sure my fellow writers at Quarterly Review of Wines share my feelings. There weren't many other wine publications out there that covered wine with as much insight - as well as common sense - as this one.

Richard, thank you for your support over the past thirteen years. You made me a better writer and for that I'll always be grateful.

I'll end this post with the words of Richard Elia from his essay in the current Autumn issue - the final issue of his beloved Quarterly Review of Wines:

"I detest mundane toasts... I shall remember to toast myself, if for no other reason than having survived wine publishing for 35 years."

Heavenly Moscato from Australia

2011-09-07T11:34:00.000-05:00

Forget ranking the great wines of the world for just a moment. Instead focus on the wines you love the most - the ones that are delicious, the ones that you'd love to try again and again. I tend to think the latter category of wines are the ones I am more interested in on a daily basis. Sure, it's a memorable occasion to try a great Barolo or Burgundy, but those moments don't take place too often. Rather, comfort wines are the ones we generally enjoy.

Well I just found one of my all time favorite wines that is delicious, fun and not very expensive - a great combination in my mind. It's a 2011 Moscato from Innocent Bystander in Victoria, Australia and boy, is this a neat wine!

I love Moscato - or Muscat, if you will, from just about anywhere. The grape has some of the most easily recognizable aromas and they're usually intensely fruity and floral, ranging from peach to apricot to acacia flowers. While there are a few versions made dry (most notably in Alsace), many versions are slightly or moderately sweet. Australia is home to many superb Muscats - known as "stickies" - that are sweet and quite lush. Many of these have an amber or tawny color as they have been aged in wood; along with the sweetness, there is often a light nuttiness.

Then of course, you have the lovely Moscato d'Asti from Piedmont in northern Italy, which is slowly becoming one of the world's most beloved wines. Made in a frizzante (slightly sparkling) style, the wines burst forth with amazing aromas of ginger, peach, apricot and orange zest and have a delicate sweetness to them. Best of all, they're light as a feather as they are only 5.5% alcohol, meaning you can drink a full bottle without too much trouble.

The Innocent Bystander Moscato is in that same mold as a Moscato d'Asti, with only one major difference- the appearance. This is made from two clones of Moscato: Gordo Muscat (a new one on me) and Black Muscat, so the color is a pretty salmon pink. One sip of this wine is like biting into both a freshly picked strawberry and mango and it finishes dry - not off-dry, but truly dry. This is also 5.5% alcohol with a light fizziness. It looks appealing, smells inviting and of course, tastes great! (Another nice feature is that the wine is topped with a crown cap - so just find a a bottle opener for this.)

I was asked by a representative of this winery if I wanted to try this wine. I replied yes, as I love Moscato. I thought I'd find a wine I liked, but I wasn't prepared for this wine, which I absolutely love! In fact, I can honestly say that this is one of the most pleasant surprises I've discovered from any wine region anywhere in the world over the past five years! Try it and I'm sure you'll fall in love with it as well - especially at the $14 retail price (750 ml bottle).

Value and Character - the Chilean Way

2011-09-01T11:15:00.000-05:00

After a hot July and August, I've returned to trying wines again. A number of reasonably priced Chilean wines have come across my desk lately and I've been especially impressed with two - one white and one red.

The white is the 2010 William Cole Sauvignon Blanc "Columbine Special Reserve" from Casablanca Valley. This wine region has become one of the leading in Chile for production of cool climate varieties, especially Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. But other varieties, such as Syrah, Riesling and Sauvignon Blanc are also playing an important role here as well.

I've always liked William Cole's wines and have especially loved his price points, which are generally in the mid-teens. I can't say that I've always been wild about the wines, as some of them are pleasant, if a bit straightforward. But with this Sauvignon Blanc, Cole has really delivered a lot of character for not a lot of money. The wine has beautiful varietal aromas of freshly cut hay, so you immediately know it's a Sauvignon Blanc that plays it straight ahead; this is not a Sauvignon Blanc pretending to be a Chardonnay.

Medium-full and aged only in stainless steel, so as to highlight the grape's fruit character, the wine has tangy acidity and notes of fresh lime in the finish. I've enjoyed it with everything from pork fried rice to sautéed shrimp and think how perfect this would be with a fish preparation with lime sauce, such as ceviché! Best yet, the US retail price is $15 and believe me, there's an awful lot of character for the money. This is a cool climate Sauvignon Blanc that many producers in Chile make so well- the acidity keeps the wine fresh and overall the wine has a delicate feel on the palate, while still displaying nice texture. Well done, Mr. Cole!

The second wine is the 2010 Meli Carignan from Maule Valley. Maule is located further south in Chile and there are plenty of old vines here planted to Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Carmenere, although white varieties such as Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc are also an integral part of this landscape.

Meli produces a Carignan, a grape most commonly associated with Southern France. What's distinctive about this wine are not only the moderate tannins (especially compared to Cabernet Sauvignon), but also its currant and red plum flavors - this is not a big, super ripe jammy red that is too often produced around the world these days. Rather, this is a subdued red, medium full with a light peppery note in the finish and good acidity, meaning the wine has a freshness and edge that makes it a wonderful food wine. Pepper steak would be a perfect match, as would lighter game birds or even something as simple as a chicken or pork taco or empanada. The price on this wine is also $15.

Both wines are imported by Global Vineyard Wine Importers of Berkeley, CA

Recent Italian Discoveries - In the Air and on the ground

2011-07-05T15:06:00.000-05:00

Notes on a few recent Italian wines I've enjoyed over the past few weeks:

The first was onboard a short plane ride from Verona to Munich on my way home from my recent visit to Soave and Valpolicella. I generally fly to and from Chicago via Munich on Lufthansa and connect for a short flight to Verona or Milan on Air Dolomiti, which is a partner airline of Lufthansa. I've flown on this airline more than a dozen times and have to tell you how happy I am with the experience. Though the flights are generally brief (45 to 60 minutes), your time is well spent, as you are given a beverage and a light snack, which could be anything from biscotti to a light sandwich. And this food is quite good - how many airlines can you say that about? It also doesn't hurt that the flight attendants are quite attractive - yes, I'm always pleased with my flights on Air Dolomiti!

They also generally have an excellent wine selection; this is not the drab white or red offering found in economy on so many airlines, but instead they offer wines from first rate Italian producers. On this most recent flight from Verona (the airline's hub), I saw that one of the three featured wines was the DUBL Falanghina, a sparkling wine made by Feudi di San Gregorio in Campania (this is a joint venture with the Champagne house of Selosse). Although I make it a rule not to drink any alcohol on flights as it tends to dehydrate me (besides, I'd had plenty of wine over the previous 12 days of my trip), I ordered a glass. The wine has a lovely delicate entry on the palate, excellent persistence and beautiful acidity - it's a lovely sparkling wine and this was a great way to begin the long voyage home.

By the way, the other two wines offered on the flight were the St. Michael-Eppan Gewurztraminer from Alto Adige and the La Braccesca Vino Nobile di Montepulciano from Antinori. When's the last time you saw wines like that offered at no charge in economy? Bravo, Air Dolomiti - you've got my business!

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During my trip in the Valpolicella district, I visited a dozen producers and tasted many of their offerings, from the basic Valpolicella to their powerful Amarone as well as their beautiful Recioto. One morning with an extra half-hour before my first appointment, I sampled about a dozen other examples of Amarone at the offices of the Valpolicella Consorzio, thanks to the kindness of director Olga Bussinello.

As I selected a few wines I was interested in tasting, her assistants asked me if I would be interested in tasting wines from some new producers. I told them yes; one of those wines turned out to be from Massimago, a small estate located in the eastern part of Valpolicella in the commune of Mezzane di Sotto. I tasted the newly released 2007 Amarone, which I loved for its varietal purity, delicious fruit, round tannins and overall balance. It was the finest of the dozen wines I tried that morning and thought at that moment that this would be a producer to keep an eye on.

I found the website and learned that the individual behind this project is a 26 year-old woman named Camilla Rossi Chauvenet, who comes not from an agricultural background, but from a family of lawyers. She was more intrigued by vineyards rather than a courtroom, so she studied agriculture at the University of Padua, which led to the wine business. (She jokes on her website that "biology saved me from the Civil Code.")

Based solely on her 2007 Amarone, I can't wait to try her other wines and then visit her estate to see what this dynamic young woman has in store for lovers of Amarone and other wines from this area!

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Finally, I want to let you know about a unique sparkling wine I have just tasted. The wine is called Sinefinis, and it is a joint venture between Robert Princic, a wonderful producer in the town of San Floriano del Collio in Friuli and his friend, Matjaza Certica, a producer in nearby Slovenia (San Floriano is in the eastern part of Collio that borders with Slovenia).

The wine is 100% Ribolla Gialla and the project is called Bollicine senza Confini - "sparkling wine without borders" - a lovely name! The wine was produced according to the classic (Champagne) method and aged on its yeasts for 18 months. Medium-full, the wine has lively acidity (as you would expect from Ribolla Gialla) as well as an excellent perlage along with impressive persistence. Aromas and flavors are of Bosc pear and pineapple; the finish is quite dry. This will age a bit, but it would be best to enjoy this in its youth over the next 1-2 years. You might think a sparkling Ribolla Gialla would be rather light, but this has a nice richness to it and will pair perfectly with most seafood (I tried it for lunch with a Thai dish of ginger shrimp and it was a heavenly match!)

This is not imported into the US at the present, so you'll have to travel to Collio or Slovenia to find a bottle. That's worth the trip, if you ask me!

Adventures in Collio

2011-06-15T15:53:00.001-05:00

Estate Vineyards of Skok, San Floriano del Collio (Photo ©Tom Hyland)

Well on my 49th trip to Italy, I finally made it to the gorgeous Collio zone in the Friuli region. Clearly I was overdue to finally visit this temple of great Italian white wines. It was a brief three days, but I was able to visit several influential producers as well as attend some informative and excellent dinners.

Collio - the name literally means "hill" - is all about hillside vineyards. Tucked along the border with Slovenia in southeastern Friuli, the Collio zone is one of the premier white wine producing zones in all of the world. Here varieties such as Friulano, Malvasia and Ribolla Gialla are implemented on their own or in blends simply labeled as Collio Bianco. Other varieties used include Sauvignon - the examples here are among the most distinctive for this variety anywhere in Italy - as well as Pinot Bianco, Pinot Grigio and Chardonnay.

I enjoyed my ride on the Vespa, but ...

(Photo by Alessandra Gruppi)

One of the highlights of my time there was a special dinner at Rosenbar Ristorante in Gorizia with several producers of Ribolla Gialla from the small commune of Oslavia. Gialla means "yellow" in Italian and as you can see from the photos, yellow is a major theme with the wines of Collio. Think yellow and you think of the sun and nature- two appropriate descriptors for the identity of the Collio district.

But with these Ribolla Gialla, it was orange and not yellow that was the common color for these wines. Producers including Radikon, La Castellada and Dario Princic take this grape very seriously, aging their wine for several years - sometimes as much as six years - before releasing their wines. We tasted examples from 2004 through 2008 from the various producers and the wines display lovely freshness as well as marvelous texture. These are among the best evidence that Italian wines can age for many years - it was clear from the 2005 Radikon (and the 2001 I tasted the following evening) that the wines have at least another 5-7 years of life ahead of them.

... I much preferred my time in the Porsche Carerra

(Photo by Paola Antonaci)

I will write a more in-depth post on the wines of Collio on my other blog, Learn Italian Wines, very soon. For now, I will give you a short list of some of my favorite Collio wines from my recent trip:

2010 Zuani "Vigne" (Collio Bianco)
2009 Gradis'ciutta "Bratinis" (Collio Bianco)
2010 Muzic Malvasia
2010 Skok Friulano "Zabura"
2010 Venica Sauvignon "Ronco del Cero"

2006 La Castellada Ribolla Gialla
2008 Il Carpino Ribolla Gialla
2005 Radikon Ribolla Gialla
2008 Livon "Terre Alte"
2009 Carlos de Pradis Friulano

2006 Marco Felluga Sauvignon Riserva
2008 Renato Keber Friulano

Marko Primosic (Photo ©Tom Hyland)

While there were so many excellent wines I tasted during my brief stay, there was one that stood out above the others and it was no surprise. The wine was the 2008 Primosic "Klin"; designated as a Collio Bianco, it is a blend of Sauvignon, Chardonnay, Ribolla Gialla and Friulano. I mention that this was not a surprise, as I have tasted two previous vintages of this wine and have been amazed at the intensity of the aromas, outstanding concentration and structure of this wine. The 2008 is as fine a bottling of this wine as I have had; with aromas of spiced pear, lavender and beeswax and outstanding persistence, this is for me, one of the very best of all Italian whites. 2008 was a wonderful year in Collio and the wines have striking acidity and the potential to age for many years - I expect this to be at its best in 7-10 years and it may drink well beyond that. Bravo Marko Primosic!

Gavi - Front and Center

2011-05-18T17:26:00.000-05:00

Gavi has historically been one of the favorite Italian white wines in America, but recently it seems to have been lost in the shuffle. Pinot Grigio has taken some of the business away and then there are just so many other wines out there a consumer can choose from, be it from Italy or a dozen other countries.

I recently went to Piemonte to try the new vintages of Barolo and Barbaresco, but of course, I needed some white wine to balance out all that red. I tried some lovely bottlings of Arneis, but I kept coming back to Gavi for some pleasant surprises. Here is a report on three wines I enjoyed very much during my trip.

One of my favorites was the newly released 2010 from Fontanafredda, a winery that has rediscovered its greatness over the past decade. There are many factors for this, from the direction of general manager Giovanni Minetti to the winemaking style and expertise of Danilo Drocco to the new vision of owner Oscar Farinetti. I've experienced greater complexity as well as more freshness in their wines as of late and this is certainly on display in this Gavi. My notes list fresh Bosc pear, Meyer lemon and a hint of mango for the juicy aromas, while the wine has lovely texture, lively acidity and even a hint of minerality. I'd love to pair this wine with risotto or shellfish and the price should be around $22 or so a bottle, which I think is quite reasonable. You may find the 2009 vintage on shelves now; that wine was also well made and quite flavorful and delicious. And while I rate 2009 as a superior vintage in Piemonte as compared with 2010, this new release from Fontanafredda is as complete and an complex a Gavi as I've had from them. Don't miss it. (For those interested in these things, this particular bottling is labeled as a Gavi del comune di Gavi, meaning the grapes were grown in Gavi and the wine was made in a cellar in that township.)

Gavi #2 that impressed me was the 2010 Francesco Rinaldi. Yes, you read that right - the historic winery known for their traditional Barolos from the Brunate and Cannubi vineyards, has produced its first white wine. It so happens that their winemaker owns a vineyard in Gavi and decided to produce a wine under the Rinaldi label. This wine has appealing Bosc pear, lemon peel and lilac aromas, is medium-full and sports very good acidity and persistence. It will be an excellent choice over the next 2-3 years with asparagus, lighter chicken preparations or with most shellfish.

The Gavi that impressed me the most during my trip was the 2009 Rovereto from Michele Chiarlo. Chiarlo produces three different offerings of Gavi and I first tried this bottling about six years ago on a visit to the winery in the Asti province. I had tasted the regular bottling of Chiarlo Gavi on many occasions at home, so this was a revelation for me, as I had not sampled a Gavi with this sort of richness and complexity.

The 2009 has those same qualities and is from an outstanding vintage. There are aromas of fresh Bosc pear along with quince and mango and there is excellent persistence. This Gavi has lovely texture and a lengthy, flavorful finish and is a step up from most bottlings of this wine type. I enjoyed it thoroughly with my tajarin with asparagus at one trattoria and with seafood at another ristorante.

Unfortunately, this wine is not imported into the United States, so the only way most of us can try it is in Piemonte. Now you have another reason to go!

Anyway, it's nice to see that Gavi is still a healthy, vibrant wine in Piemonte. Let's hope it regains some of its former sales success here in America.

Palmina - Italian Varieties beautifully done in California

2011-05-02T12:10:00.001-05:00

Steve Clifton and his wife Chrystal Seals (Photo courtesy of Palmina)

As my specialty in the wine business is reporting on the wines of Italy, I'm often asked to taste examples of California wines made with Italian varieties, so called Cal-Ital wines. Over the years, I've sampled some nice whites - primarily from Mendocino County - as well as a nicely crafted red or two from various zones in California (a Luna Sangiovese from more than a decade ago is a pleasant memory).

But I can't say that any of them have greatly impressed me; yes, they've been pleasant and nicely balanced and in some cases, even displaying the lively acidity you expect from these varieties. But few of these wines have the structure or complexity of their Italian counterparts.

I started to think that maybe it's just not possible to make notable wines from Italian varieties in California. After all, the conditions - from soil to climate - are radically different and let's face it, the growers are going to plant successful varieties such as Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Pinot Noir and others in the finest sites; Italian varieties will often have to thrive in less than stellar conditions in California.

But then I tried the wines of Palmina from Santa Barbara, which has me thinking, yes, it is possible to make beautifully crafted wines from Italian varieties in the Golden State. The brains behind Palmina is Steve Clifton, who is one-half of the Brewer-Clifton winery that produces brilliant Pinot Noirs and Chardonnays, primarily from small vineyards in the Sta. Rita Hills appellation (I'll post on these wines in the near future). Steve founded the operation in 1995 and named it after a dear friend who taught him all about the love and wonder that goes into Italian wine and food.

Steve has clearly learned these lessons well, as his wines are as fine a collection of Cal-Ital wines as I've tried. I tasted the wines with Steve last week at a distributor tasting in Chicago and while I didn't try everything, I was very impressed with several of the wines. Regarding the whites, the clear winner for me was the 2009 Arneis. This variety yields a medium-bodied white with aromas of pear and pine and is generally made without any oak aging (or very little) in Piemonte. The Palmina is partially aged in neutral oak, so the perfumes are not hidden under the wood notes; also the wine has a slight touch of minerality and very good acidity (the Honea Vineyard in the Santa Ynez Valley from where this fruit is sourced, is influenced by fog, meaning cool temperatures and a long hangtime). This is a wine that will drink well over the next 2-3 years and would be fine with a variety of foods, from shellfish to roast chicken.

The 2009 Dolcetto, sourced from two Santa Barbara vineyards (one the Honea vineyard and the other the Zotovich vineyard in the Sta. Rita Hills AVA), has pleasant freshness with youthful black cherry and black raspberry fruit with good acidity. This has medium-weight tannins and is quite tasty; this is a Dolcetto with very fine typicity- you might think you were drinking an example from Piemonte. Enjoy this over the next 2-3 years with pizza or lighter pastas or red meats.

The real surprise for me was the 2006 Nebbiolo. Now you have to understand that for me, Nebbiolo is almost sacred. Only in a few small zones in Piemonte - most notably Barolo and Barbaresco along with Gattinara - as well as the Valtellina district in northern Lombrdia - have historically displayed the proper conditions in which this variety can yield world class wines. So anyone who plants Nebbiolo in California has their work cut out for them (they may also need to have their heads examined, given the folly of such an adventure, but that's another story).

The 2006 Palmina Nebbiolo was a wonderfully pleasant surprise for me then. The wine has the proper deep garnet color; that along with the dried cherry and cedar aromas told me that Clifton had properly aged the wine in large wooden casks. During the 1980s and 1990s, there was a movement in Piemonte to age Barolo in small oak barrels, as if to give the wine a more modern identity - one with more spice and perhaps a bit more flash, if only to influence certain wine critics. While a few producers made brilliant wines, too many of these wines for me were not what I wanted from Barolo. Tradition had been replaced in these wines by ripeness and power.

So I clearly love traditional Nebbiolo and that is exactly what this Palmina wine is all about. Clifton aged the wine for three years in large wooden casks, ranging from 3500-7000 liters; producers in Barolo who use large casks work with sizes ranging from 3000-5000 liters). The wine is quite elegant, even with its youthful tannins and has very good acidity. This is a wine of balance and varietal character, not a wine of power or strength. Now I'd never mistake it for a cru Barolo or Barbaresco, but it is quite recognizable as Nebbiolo and it compares well with some examples of Nebbiolo d'Alba or Langhe Nebbiolo.

I'm not sure I'd ever thought that was possible in California. But thanks to the dedicated work of Steve Clifton and his team at Palmina, Nebbiolo, Dolcetto, Arneis and a few other Italian varieties are performing beautifully in the New World. The key, like it is with the best Italian restaurants in America, is capturing the spirit of Italy. I can't wait to try some of the single vineyard Nebbiolos from Palmina. Nice work, Steve!

Struggling with Syrah in Chile

2011-04-17T19:59:00.000-05:00

Given the success of Syrah across the globe - there are notable examples from warm and cool climates - it is only natural that the producers of Chile would want to work with this variety. There certainly are plenty of warm areas in the country where the variety thrives, be it modestly priced bottlings from the Central Valley or more full-bodied offerings from an excellent territory such as the Colchagua Valley, some 175 miles south of Santiago.

Lately however, some vintners are experimenting with Syrah in cool climates and results are encouraging, though wildly uneven. A cool climate for a variety such as Syrah will often mean a very deep color as well as very good natural acidity. As the tannins are never very strong with Syrah, the wines are approachable upon release, though the structure of these wines argue for at least a few years of aging.

To date, my favorite Syrah from Chile has been from Maycas in the Limarí Valley in northern Chile not far from the Pacific Ocean. There are only a handful of producers that are working here and the wines from Maycas, especially the Sauvignon Blanc and Syrah, display excellent varietal character and intensity along with beautiful complexity. These are not simple, fruit-forward wines, but bottlings with ideal structure for aging for 5-7 years and they are priced quite fairly right around $20 or even a few dollars less.

So I was intrigued to learn what's been going on with Syrah in Chile lately, especially with versions made from grapes in cool climates. I tasted versions from Limarí, Leyda, Casablanca and Lolol Valleys are the results were a bit disappointing. The best wine I sampled was the 2009 Reserva from Tamaya in Limarí Valley. Though not as rich as the Maycas (the 2008 was the most recent Syrah I've tasted from them), the Tamaya did offer very fine complexity and balance with an appealing note of dark chocolate in the finish. The wine should be at its best in 3-5 years, while the $18 price tag is fair for this style and quality.

I also enjoyed the more approachable 2009 Undurraga from Leyda Valley, part of their T.H. series of wines (T.H. for terroir hunter, a clever name!). This is a medium-bodied, round, straightforward Syrah with blackberry, black plum and chocolate flavors, medium tannins and good acidity. It's got a little bit of spice, making it a nice partner for grilled meats and lighter game. It's very elegant and well made, though the $25 price range seems a bit high for the overall quality.

There were other Syrahs I tasted recently that just weren't very good; I don't believe in embarrassing producers, so I won't mention them. But overall, I'm just not finding the quality with Syrah in Chile as I have been recently with Pinot Noir (see post). Too many of the wines are overly ripe and have deep purple colors, yielded no doubt from the ever present Chilean sunshine as well as too much time in small oak barrels (one example I had was basically black in color and opaque - you literally couldn't see through it). Do we need all this oak with Syrah from Chile? Do we need jammy, super ripe bottlings of Syrah from Chile? It's as though the producers were chasing points when they crafted these wines. They may be for some people, but they're not for me. I have to think that even the people that like them now may do so for a momentary pleasure, as this style is a bit of a flash in the pan. These wines are not elegant and would overwhelm most food.

So what I've learned so far about Syrah in Chile is that Limarí is an ideal zone for this variety as is Leyda (I've also enjoyed a few lovely examples of Syrah from Matetic/EQ in Leyda- the wines offer excellent structure). I have to think there are other areas as well that are capable of notweworthy Syrah. I just haven't tried many, I'm sorry to say.

Perfecting Pinot Noir in Chile

2011-04-14T14:02:00.000-05:00

For decades now, vintners in Chile have known the benefit of the warmth of the sun. Theirs is a moderate to warm climate, meaning that conditions are ideal for varieties such as Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot and their local grape, Carmenere. The country's finest reds have been made from these varieties, from areas such as Maipo Valley (especially the Alto Maipo, a bit southeast of Santiago), Colchagua and Aconcagua Valleys.

But there are a few dozen producers that have wanted to scratch an itch for years and that itch is working with cool climate varieties, especially Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, Riesling and Syrah. It all started in the 1980s when Pablo Morandé planted several varieties in Casablanca Valley some 12-15 miles from the Pacific Ocean. He took the chance, it paid off with many lovely wines and today, there are many established wine estates in Casablanca, while many other source fruit from this zone.

About a decade ago, a few more intrepid producers ventured even farther west, planting Pinot Noir, Syrah, Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay, Riesling and one or two other varieties in the Leyda and San Antonio Valleys. These wine zones are extremely close to the Pacific, with some vineyards as close as 2-5 miles from the ocean. This is a razor's edge climate, so ripening it sometimes difficult, but when it works, it does so brilliantly.

To date, I've tasted some lovely Pinot Noirs from San Antonio and Leyda, most notably from Casa Marin as well as Leyda Vineyards. I've also tasted some beautiful examples from Morandé and William Cole in Casablanca. However, I've also had some bottlings from these zones that have been disappoining, ranging from overripe to underipe to harsh and slightly bitter. It's clear that while Chilean Pinot Noir has improved dramatically over the past two decades, much works needs to be done.

I recently tasted three fine examples of Chilean Pinot Noir that I'll mention in brief.

The first was the Valdivieso Reserva 2009 from Casablanca Valley. My notes mention "fresh, attractive aromas of bing cherry along with a note of cardamom spice; medium-bodied, this has good concentration and varietal character, medium-weight tannins, tart acidity and a light touch of wood."

This is an elegant Pinot Noir that is styled for many types of food and is fairly priced at $17. I think most consumers looking for Pinot Noir in this price range would be very happy with this wine.

The second wine was the Veramonte "Ritual" 2009 from Casablanca Valley. I've enjoyed this winery's bottlings for many years now, be it the delightful Sauvignon Blanc or the red blend known as Primus. The wines are well made and offer very good to excellent character for their prices.

But as good as those wines are, they did not prepare me for the qualities, complexities and character of this new Pinot Noir. Displaying aromas of bing cherry, cardamom and a hint of bacon fat, this wine has delicious varietal fruit with perfect ripeness and a lovely elegance. The finish has good length and is quite flavorful and everything is in balance- the acidity is very good, tannins are round and silky and the wood notes are quite subtle.

For $20 retail, this is a steal. I would be happy to pay $30 for this, as here is a wine with beautiful varietal character, lovely texture and impeccable balance. I've tasted $40 and $50 Pinot Noirs from other countries that haven't had this sort of complexity and finesse. Best yet, this is a lovely food wine - I think it would pair especially well with a Thai preparation of chicken or pork.

Finally, I sampled the Cono Sur "Ocio" 2008 from Casablanca Valley. This producer has a series of special selection and single vineyard wines that have greatly impressed me in the past (especially the "20 Barrels" Sauvignon Blanc). This Pinot Noir has lovely varietal character, excellent depth of fruit and a velvety feel in the mouth. It is quite rich with beautiful ripeness, very good acidity and excellent persistence.

The only problem I have with this wine is the excessive oak; the wine was aged for one year in small oak barrels. Oak in Pinot Noir is a delicate thing and it doesn't take much for a wine to be laden with wood notes. I prefer a different approach to aging a glorious wine such as this in oak, but the winemaker was looking for a particular style. This approach is also taken with numerous vintners of showcase Pinot Noirs in California and Oregon, so this wine is not alone in its balance of fruit and oak. Besides, the wine still has an elegant feel to it; there are no bitter wood tannins present.

This is a trophy wine, so to speak, and is a fine example of what Chile can produce with Pinot Noir. Producing notable wines from this grape is a work in progress in many great areas around the world, even in superb zones like Sta. Rita Hills or the Santa Lucia Highlands in California, so Chile is holding its own with the variety. Based on these three wines, the future looks exciting for Pinot Noir in Chile.

P.S. A final note- the Cono Sur bottling retails for $65, this price no doubt due to its limited availability. But for me, I'll take three bottles of the Veramonte "Ritual" over one bottle of the Cono Sur bottling every time!

Promising News from Carmen

2011-04-09T08:01:00.000-05:00

Cabernet Vineyard at Carmen Estate, Alto Maipo (Photo ©Tom Hyland)

A few days ago, I opened a bottle of the 2005 Carmen Winemaker's Reserve Red, if for no other reason than to pair with some comfort food with a friend. I loved the wine when it was released and wanted to see how it was drinking after a couple of years. This full-bodied blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Carmenere and Petite Syrah is a gorgeous wine, with its striking deep purple color, intense black currant, black plum and cherry and tar aromas and outstanding concentration. This is a wine with beautiful structure and balance backed by firm, but elegant tannins. While the wine is appealing now for its hedonistic pleasures, it's still an infant and has only started to show its greater complexities. Look for this wine to be at its best in another 10-12 years, though it may drink well in another 20 years.

I mention this wine not only because I loved it, but because you should realize that for a little while at least, you won't be able to buy this wine in the United States, as it's not being imported. Neither is the winery's brilliant Gold Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon, sourced from 40 plus year-old vineyards at the winery's Alto Jahuel estate in Alto Maipo, a prestigious address for Chilean Cabernet Sauvignon, if there ever was one. The fact that these wines sold for $50-$65 have something to do with it, but let me explain further, as there is promising news from Carmen regarding the availability of their wines in the United States.

Carmen has made a change in distribution for the US market and is now going with Trinchero in Napa Valley to represent their wines. The winery believes they will be able to do a much better job than their previous importer (I will not mention their name so as not to embarrass anyone), a company that was much smaller than Trinchero. Carmen worked with this former importer and focused on selling their Classic tier wines ($8.99 retail for such wines as Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, et al) as well as their Reserva wines ($14.99 to $16.99, depending on the state - wines such as Cabernet Sauvignon, Sauvignon Blanc and Carmenere/Cabernet Sauvignon). Because of this focus, the Winemaker's Reserve Red and Gold Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon became much less of a focus, as they tried to work with their importer to boost sales on the other wines.

Ultimately the winery decided to make the change of importers and with it, a restyling of wines as well. The new offerings, arriving in the US within a few weeks, will be the Gran Riserva wines, focusing on the best terroirs in Chile; thus we will see Cabernet Sauvignon from Alto Maipo, Sauvignon Blanc from Leyda Valley, Chardonnay from Casablanca, Carmenere from Apalta as well as a few other wines. The pricing will be a very reasonable $14.99 per bottle.

I haven't tasted these new wines yet, but given the track record that Carmen has built up over the years, I am excited to sample them when they arrive. I was a big fan of the Reserve wines, especially the Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, as the wines offered beautiful varietal character, excellent structure and ideal balance. Best, they were appealing wines with food and offered the character you would normally find in wines that were in the $20-28 range, instead of the mid-teens. So given my pleasant experiences with Carmen's mid-tier wines in the past, I'm quite confident the winery will be delivering some beautiful wines for $15 with these new Gran Riserva offerings.

I've also learned that after a short time if things go well with these new wines, the Winemaker's Reserve Red may be brought back for the American market. I sure hope that's true, as I love the wine, but more importantly, that was the last bottle I drank the other day - I need more in my cellar!

A Stylish Frascati

2011-04-06T08:54:00.000-05:00

Frascati has always been known as the "white wine of Rome"; this because it is historically the most famous wine of the Lazio region where Rome is located. While both Rome and the wine have this historical parallel, the wine for the most part just doesn't have the excitement, charisma or complexities of this famous city.

In fact, most bottlings of Frascati I've tasted over the years (admittedly very few) have been rather boring. The wine is most often a blend of several white varieties, such as Malvasia and Trebbiano, and is usually aged only for a few months in steel tanks (not wood), resulting in a light to medium-bodied wine best enjoyed in its youth (1-2 years after the vintage date, maximum). Pleasant sipping stuff, perhaps, but hardly a wine anyone would rave about.

So imagine my delight when I tasted the 2009 Frascati Superiore "Luna Mater" (mother moon) from Fontana Candida, for here is that rare bird, a Frascati with weight on the palate and excellent complexity. This was a pleasant surprise for me, to say the least, especially as Fontana Candida is known for the typical straightforward style of Frascati.

The reason why this wine is so different is the fact that there were two harvests - one at the normal time and the second, a late harvest, which yields grapes that have more tropical fruit flavors instead of the simple apple and citrus perfumes found in an everyday Frascati. My notes list aromas of banana, spiced pear, applesauce and cinnamon - very nice!

This is a blend of several varieties, including Malvasia di Candia, Malvasia Puntinata, Trebbiano, Greco and Bombino. The light golden color is the first indicator that you are not dealing with a typical Frascati and that continues with its unique aromas, excellent concentration and a note of almond in the lengthy finish. This is appealing on its own, but is much better partnered with rich seafood such as swordfish or lobster.

The "Luna Mater" Frascati is imported by Banfi Imports and has a suggested retail price of $23 (very reasonable).

A Singular Pizzeria

2011-03-31T18:44:00.000-05:00

Detail of Tomato, Mozzarella and Mora cheese pizza, Great Lake, Chicago

If you love pizza (who doesn't?), you probably have your favorite pizzerias you head to when the craving hits. I finally had the pleasure of dining at Great Lake in Chicago last night and let's just say that while I'm sorry it took me so long to get there (especially as it's only about a mile from my home), I'll be back very soon.

There are several reasons for returning, but the basic one anyone would care about is this - how is the pizza? Briefly, it's as good as I've ever had in the United States. Now it's not classic pizza from Napoli, where you get Pizza Margherita or Marinara or a variation on one of these classic pies. Nor it is Roma pizza with its snappy crust. Nor is it New York style or Chicago style or any other city's style. It is totally, beautifully, deliciously, it's own style as created by owner Nick Lessins.

I first heard about this tiny pizzeria in June 2009, when Alan Richman wrote an article in that month's GQ about his search for America's single best pizza. There, sitting at number one, was the mortadella pizza from Great Lake. Naturally my civic pride got a boost as here was a famed writer from the East Coast letting the world know that the best pizza in the country was in Chicago! Referring to the mortadella pizza, Richman wrote;

"This pie - creative, original and somewhat local - represents everything irresistible about the new American style of pizza-making."

Now that certainly got my attention, but let me tell you flat out that I like to make up my own mind, whether it's on a movie I saw or the pizza I'm about to eat. I also tend to avoid places - at least for awhile - that are the overnight successes on the block. You can imagine how crowded this place was for quite some time after that article appeared. Add to that the fact that the place only seats 12 people! Yes, that's right, 12 people, as there is a communal table for 8 and then two two-tops.

I travel quite a bit which added to my delay in getting there, but about a month ago, a friend told me that it was finally getting manageable and you could get a table without too much of a wait if you arrived early (the restaurant opens at 5:00 PM and is only open from Wednesday to Sunday). So two of my friends accompanied me this past Wednesday for our initial meal. We had heard rave reviews from many friends, so we were quite excited.

We arrived a few minutes after 5:30 and already the place was full. We gave our name and cel number to co-owner Lydia Esparza, who told us it would be about a 30 minute wait and that she would call us when our seats were ready. As the place is tiny, you can't wait there, but there are several upscale wine bars and restaurants in a two block radius, so we went for a beer and sure enough, we got the call almost exactly 30 minutes later. As my friend Sue remarked, "this was a very civilized way of handling this situation."

There are only three pizzas available each night; this particular evening the mortadella was not one of them. But fear not, especially given the amazing aromas coming from our neighbors' pizzas (we sat at the communal table) and the kitchen. The three choices we had that evening were:

1) Tomato, homemade Mozzarella and Mora cheese
2) Cremini mushroom with Mora cheese and salumi biellese
3) Sauteed bacon, red onion and homemade creme fraiche

We ordered the first two and were fortunate enough to also try a piece of the bacon pizza that our neighbors couldn't finish (thank you!). Each of the pizzas is quite rich - especially the bacon- and has wonderful texture and flavors. The crust on each one is quite salty and maybe that's certainly one of chef Lessins' signatures. But it's the amazing combination of vegetables, meat and cheeses that are the real key here and each pizza is perfectly cooked and is mouthwateringly delicious!

Lessins works with local farmers in Illinois, Michigan and a few other states and proudly lists their names on the menu board on the wall. The pizzas cost about $22 each, a fair value for such a full, satisfying meal (most people we saw took a piece or two home as they couldn't finish a whole pizza - we were no exception).

What's really neat is that Lessins has repeatedly stated that he is not going to expand the place. Yes, it could mean more money, but that would take away from what he is doing. Lessins, you see, makes every pizza and gives them a lot of TLC. There's no rushing here, but with an experience like this, who wants to rush? Incidentally, while the pizzas take a little longer to come to your table than at most pizzerias, it doesn't take an inordinate amount of time, as Richman suggested in his article.

You bring your own wine and as I was finally heading there for the first time, I went to the cellar and pulled out something special - the 1999 Feudi di San Gregorio "Serpico." This 100% Aglianico from Campania was in great shape and had the body and spice to easily carry all the flavors in these pizzas. If you don't bring wine, you can always order a San Pellegrino Aranciata - and how nice that they offer this wonderful orange soda!

So a big thank you to owners Nick Lessins and Lydia Esparza for all their hard work - it comes across lovingly in their pizzas. I'll be back soon and maybe that mortadella pizza will be available. But no matter, I'm pretty certain I'm going to like every different pizza they create!

Great Lake, 1477 W. Balmoral Avenue, Chicago, IL 60640 (773-334-9270)

P.S. A nice family of four - mom and dad and their two young sons - seated at the communal table was also here for the first time. The mentioned they loved pizza and had eaten at Pizzeria Bianco in Phoenix, which was also cited in Richman's article. They said they loved the pizzas they consumed there, so when I finally make it to that beautiful city out west, I'll make certain I check out their food.

P.P.S. I mentioned that the pizza at Great Lake is singular. It is not classic Neapolitan pizza. When I'm talking about that, the three finest I've dined at in America (in no particular order) are:

Kesté, New York City
La Pizza Fresca, New York City
Spacca Napoli, Chicago

If you have a favorite, let me know!

Sure, Solid, Successful Steps at Moet

2011-03-29T10:23:00.000-05:00

Benoit Gouez, chef-du-cave, Moet e Chandon

When you are the largest house in Champagne, you don't make a change for change's sake. Rather, decisions that will take your company in a new direction take place with the experience of the past and the foresight to do what is best for the long road ahead.

One such decision that has recently taken place at Moet e Chandon in Epernay has to do with one of the firm's loveliest wines, the vintage Champagne. Keep in mind that a vintage bottling is not the typical release from Moet or any Champagne producer, but rather is something that is produced only in the finest years - years that are proclaimed vintage years by each house.

Moet has just released its 2002 vintage Champagne and to show you how precious a vintage bottling is, this is only the 69th release of one of these wines from the firm, a very small percentage for a company that has been producing Champagne since 1842.

I mentioned changes at the start and the 2002 besides being a typically fine and elegant Moet bottling, is a wine that represents some important new avenues for the company. First and foremost is the name "Grand Vintage", which will be the new designation for the vintage offering. Perhaps it's just a marketing decision, but I think this new marque lends an added touch of class.

Then there's the aging process for the wine. The minimum for a Vintage Champagne by law is three years, but for Moet, five years has been the norm. But starting with this 2002, the chef-du-cave is looking at seven years of aging before the release to the market. In fact, as he believed this wine needed more time than usual given its delicate nature, he made the decision to release the 2003 vintage bottling first. As the 2003 was from a very hot vintage in which the grapes achieved higher than usual ripeness, Gouez felt the forward nature of that wine would show better sooner than the more subdued manner of the 2002.

Also, with this 2002 bottling, Gouez has decided to lessen the dosage to make the wine a bit drier. The addition of the dosage - often sugar blended with a base wine - is done for several reasons, but primarily to balance the overall acidity of the wine. This small addition of sugar also serves to round out the finish, as many Champagnes are too austere if they are not given a final dosage.

But Gouez has lessened the dosage amount for the 2002 Grand Vintage, believing that the extra two years of aging in the cellars have resulted in a more complex wine with a lengthy finish and ideal structure. Based on my initial tasting of this wine at a special dinner last week in Chicago, I would say he has made a wise choice. The wine is medium-full with beautifully complex aromas of lemon biscuit and a round, elegant finish - this is a Champagne with great finesse and style!

Benoit Gouez with two bottles of the 2002 Grand Vintage. The bottle with the chalk numbers on the label will replace the standard package.

Interestingly, few houses in Champagne made the decision to call 2002 a vintage year. Gouez, however thought that 2002 was an excellent year, perhaps the best since 1995, in his opinion. As the 2003 has already been released, the 2004 will be the next Grand Vintage, followed, surprisingly not by 2005, (which most houses did declare as a vintage year), but instead by the 2006, 2008 and 2009. 2005 and 2007 were not declared as vintage years by Moet, as Gouez believed that the grapes in those years "were not very ripe." Since the vintage wines will be from growing seasons that yielded more mature grapes, Gouez is confident that an extra two years of cellaring will result in better balanced wines. "Champagne is all about consistency," he notes, and while each vintage will still have its own characteristics, the additional aging for the new vintage offerings will guarantee a more recognizable style for Moet.

Along with the Grand Vintage 2002, we also tasted the new Grand Vintage Rosé 2002; this wine has ripe strawberry flavors and a rich palate with a long finish. The wine is quite attractive now, but it will evolve into a more complex offering with another 2-3 years in the bottle, while the Grand Vintage 2002 is a bit more approachable now. Gouez blends both white and red wines for his rosé, as he believes this is the best way to create a more subtle and balanced wine.

The wines were served with the ingenous cuisine of Stephanie Izard at her new restaurant in Chicago called Girl and the Goat. Izard became sort of a national overnight sensation when she was the winner on the tv show "Top Chef" a few years ago. Chicagoans had been waiting for her new restaurant and they are turning out in record numbers. I arrived at 6:00 PM on this particular Thursday evening and the room was packed- it seemed more like it was 8:00 or 8:30 at night.

Our small group dined in a private room and we were delighted with the menu. Izard finds so many wonderful and unique combinations; a dish of fennel, squash, kohlrabi and toasted almonds was a perfect accompaniment to the Grand Vintage, while a fried loup de mer was a marvelous companion to the rosé.

This event was a wonderful look at the world of Moet, not only from the standpoint of the quality of their wines, but also as a view into their future. As successful as they've been since 1842, I get the feeling their products will only improve in the upcoming years.

P.S. By the way, if you have a collection of the older bottlings of Moet vintage Champagne, keep an eye out for the 1921. Benoit Gouez remarked that it was "the best year for white wines in Europe in the 20th century." I'm guessing that vintage bottling may still have some life to it, so if you do find a bottle, will you let me know?

Italian Wines - Traditional, Natural and Delicious!

2011-03-23T18:07:00.000-05:00

The Italians use the word anima to describe a wine that has soul, a wine with not only excellent varietal purity and balance, but one that reflects its local terroir, one that has a sense of place. These are wines that are honest, like the farmers that tend the vineyards and the enologists that craft these wines in their cellars.

Today I was able to taste wines from several Italian producers who make their wines this way; the occasion was a tasting of bottlings from the Louis Dressner portfolio. While I also sampled a few French wines at this event (including an outstanding 2002 Cuvée Prestige from Franck Pascal), my emphasis was on the splendid group of Italian wines at this tasting.

I started right at the top with the wines from Elisabetta Foradori from Trentino. I had tasted her wines many times before, but this was the first time I had the opportunity to meet her. What a treat to taste these wines while listening to her thoughts on the various bottlings. She poured a 2009 release of a white called Myrto, produced from the Manzoni variety, a cross between Riesling Renano and Pinot Bianco. This is a beautiful dry white with petrol and pear aromas with lovely texture and excellent complexity.

She also showed four reds, all made from Teroldego, the variety she is best known for. I loved the 2009 "Scarzon" bottling, with its deep color, heavenly perfumes of black raspberry, anise and violets and outstanding persistence. This is great evidence of the biodynamic farming she undertakes at her estate; she told me that this practice allows her to "go back to the fertility of the soil." All of her red wines display wonderful varietal purity and finesse, two qualities I have been finding in the very best wines made biodynamically.

Two of the most pleasant surprises at this tasting were red wines from Cascina degli Ulivi, a small estate in the Alessandria province that is well known for their Gavi. The first red was a charming red called "Semplicimente", a blend of 70% Barbera and 30% Dolcetto. This has the wonderful black raspberry and cranberry fruit of Dolcetto along with the zippy, tangy acidity of Barbera; aged solely in steel tanks, this is a fun wine meant for consumption with pizza and salumi over the next 12 months. I mentioned to Sonia Torretta from the estate that it was neat to try an old-fashioned Piemontese red; she smiled and replied that many people in her town had told her that this wine "was just like my uncle used to make." Given all the powerful wines that emerge from Piemonte, how nice to find an approachable wine such as this (especially at around $18 retail).

Torretta also poured her 2006 "Nibio" a wine made entirely from a local strain of Dolcetto. This particular clone (the wine is a Monferrato Dolcetto) has small berries, so there is a touch more tannin than the usual Dolcetto d'Alba, given the skin to juice ratio. This is a delicious wine and one that will be at is best in about five years - at $24-27 dollars, this is a fine value, especially as it challenges other Italian reds in regards of quality and complexity at that price.

I wasn't familiar with the wines of Monte dall'Orca from Valpolicella, but can highly recommend them, especially the 2007 Ripasso "Sausto" and the 2006 Amarone. Both wines are remarkably elegant without the big raisiny flavors one normally encounters in wines of these type. The wines are aged in grandi botti, so the wood influence is minimal. To me this allowed the varietal flavors of the Corvina and Rondinella grapes to emerge, along with subtle spice. This Amarone is one of the best I've tasted over the past few years.

Finally, two producers making wines at different ends of the spectrum. Sasha Radikon was present pouring his father's gorgeous "orange" wines; among them were the 2005 Ribolla Gialla, the Jakot (Tokaj spelled backwards) froma the same vintage and the "Oslavje" (also from 2005). This last white, a blend of Pinot Grigio, Sauvignon and Chardonnay has excellent persistence and texture with outstanding complexity. A first rate wine as was the Ribolla Gialla, which displayed remarkable freshness for a five year old white wine. Radikon gives these white wines three and a half months of skin contact and them ages them for three and a half years in grandi botti of 30 hl. This is an amazing way to make white wines - one that surely is razor's edge - but is works grandly!

Finally I was able to sample the new wines from my brand new friend Arianna Occhippinti. I had known about her wines for some time now, as several friends recommended them to me (Arianna is the niece of Giusto Occhipinti, one of the proprietors of COS winery in Vittoria, one of Italy's most remowned producers). I finally met Arianna on March 12 at an event in Sicily, where I tasted her estate wines (I especially loved her 2006 "Siccogno" Nero d'Avola). I then flew back to Chicago on the 15th on the same flight as Arianna- she was actually seated one row directly in front of me - talk about a small world! (Incidentally, both of us, having flown Alitalia in the past, had the foresight to order a vegetarian meal - they couldn't screw that up!). So today, the 23rd, marked the third time in twelve days I've spent time with her after never meeting her in the past. She is certainly worth spending time with, I can admit, not only for her wines, but also for her charming personality.

I tasted three wines from her new project she has undertaken with a few friends. The wines are under the Tami label and the three wines, a Grillo and two reds, Frappato and Nero d'Avola, are medium-bodied and offer good freshness, varietal character and are quite elegant and approachable now. These are fine food wines and very reasonably priced - they should be in the $16-$18 retail range, though I'm guessing much of the wine will wind up as glass pours - a wonderful idea for any restaurant wine buyers reading this post.

In case you couldn't tell, I had fun at this tasting. To me, that's always in the back of my mind at wine events. No matter how expensive or famous the wine, I'll only rate it highly if I enjoy it. Today, I enjoyed a beautiful range of wines - life's good!

Alto Adige Treasures

2011-03-19T10:44:00.000-05:00

When people ask me to name my favorite regions in Italy, Alto Adige is always in my top three. I would give that answer my no matter whether people were referring to the beauty of the region, the friendliness of the people or the quality of the wines. To me, Alto Adige truly is a magical territory on many levels.

So I was excited about attending a special Alto Adige tasting in Chicago a few weeks ago; this depsite the fact that I was leaving for Italy the next day. I don't normally do much the day before I fly, but I rarely pass up an opportunity to taste wines from this splendid region in northern Italy.

Several dozen producers came to Chicago as part of a three city tour in the US (Boston and New York City followed) and what was evident after sampling only a few bottlings was the collective quality of these wines (certainly no surprise to me, given my previous experiences, but always nice to see consistent excellence on display). Alto Adige is best known for its deeply fruity whites, generally aged only in steel tanks, so as to preserve the lovely aromatics. The most famous white is Gewuztraminer - known sometimes simply as Traminer - with its remarkable perfumes of lychee and rose petals. These are rich, dry offerings with distinct spice that are ideal when paired with Oriental cuisine. There were bottlings that ranged from $15 to $40 a bottle; the two most impressive were the 2009 Cantina Tramin "Nussbaumer" and the 2009 Elena Walch "Kastelaz", both of which are among the finest examples of this variety, not only in Italy, but in the world.

Another variety that is quite successful in the region is Sauvignon Blanc, which is labeled here (as in much of Italy) as Sauvignon. As Alto Adige is a cool region, the variety truly shines here, as the long growing season preserves acidity as well as the grape's textbook aromas of spearmint, pear and freshly cut grass. There were two favorites for me on this day; the beautifully textured and structured 2009 Nils Magreid "Mantele", a single vineyard offering with excellent persistence and the 2008 Cantina Terlano "Quartz", a massively concentrated bottling that should drink well for 5-7 years. (A special shoutout to this producer, who is one of the region's very best and in my opinion, one of the finest producers of white wine anywhere in Europe. Their 2007 Nova Domus Terlaner Riserva is truly a stunning wine and one that is quite unique- I expect this wine to drink well for another 7-10 years.)

Pinot Bianco is the most widely planted white variety in Alto Adige and it truly represents the heart and soul of the area's vintners. There were several excellent examples on display at this event. My favorites included the 2007 Cantina Terlano Vorberg Riserva, the 2009 Castel Sallegg and most notably, the 2009 Elena Walch "Kastelaz" and the 2009 Alois Lageder "Haberle". This last bottling in particular has been a favorite of mine for several years; it shows the potential of this variety in terms of texture and complexity. This would be a marvelous match with any number of foods from vegetable risotto to poached trout.

No, I haven't forgotten Pinot Grigio, the grape that everybody seems to pick on, yet one that is enjoyed by millions. What makes the versions from Alto Adige so special is a combination of the proper growing conditions (cool climate along with hillside plantings that naturally limit the yield) as well as the tender love and care given to the wines by the vintners. That was evident in the 2009 Nils Magreid "Punggl" and the 2009 Lageder "Porer". The former is from vineyards that are 80-100 years old; needless to say, the wine has intensity as well as beautiful texture and the exotic tropical fruit notes as quite distinct (the wine is a steal at $20). The latter is a Pinot Grigio that ages and offers excellent complexity; this is one of the wones made by Lageder using the strict Demeter biodynamic practices. How nice to see Lageder put this much effort into this variety; this too is wonderfully priced at $23.

While the white wines are the most famous in the region, there are some very impressive Alto Adige reds as well. The first I'll mention was a wonderful surprise, the 2009 Elena Walch Schiava. I've tasted many versions of this variety in the past; it's a very light red with extremely delicate tannins; while pleasant, too many examples are often a bit green and have a strong herbaceous streak that takes away from the simple charms of the wine. But not this one; this was pure, fresh, tantalizing strawberry fruit and a refreshing finish with tart acidity. This is a variety few people outside the region are familiar with, but when consumers take the time to stop and smell the roses (or strawberries in this instance) and enjoy the simple pleasures of a red wine meant for immediate consumption, they will be delighted in a well made and pleasing bottling such as this.

A few word here about Elena Walch and her husband Werner. They own some beautifully situated vineyards just outside the town of Tramin and produce a wide range of stellar wines. They are extremely personable and gracious people and it's truly nice to see such wonderful people who work hard and do things the right way in their quest to become one the Alto Adige's leading wine estates. I'd recommend just about anything from this label, from the basic Pinot Grigio to the riserva bottlings of Lagrein and Merlot.

Two featured red varieties at this tasting were Pinot Nero and Lagrein. A few words on the former; the top examples from Alto Adige are medium-full with round tannins, tart acidity, pleasant herbal notes and attractive cherry fruit. They resemble lighter Burgundies, with most bottlings styled for optimal consumption within the first 3-5 years, though a few of the best can age for a decade. The most successful versions I sampled at this tasting were the lightly spicy 2009 Nils Magreid and the slightly richer and more fragrant 2008 Franz Haas, which offered beautiful cherry fruit and a sublime note of cardamom.

As I mentioned earlier, I had to fly to Italy the following day, so I missed a number of top wines at this event. But I made sure to sample at least a few bottlings of Lagrein, a beautiful indigenous red from the region. This varies quite a bit from Pinot Nero, in that Lagrein is much deeper in color with a bright purple robe (as compared to the garnet appearance of Pinot Nero) and has more distinct tannins. Lagrein is generally a forward red and while it can be quite big, the tannins are not like Cabernet Sauvignon or Nebbiolo, so the wine can be enjoyed much sooner upon release. Most have the stuffing and proper structure to drink well for 5-7 years, though some drink well for a decade or longer. Two wines that impressed me this day were the 2007 Castel Sallegg Riserva and the 2004 Lageder "Lindenburg"; both offered notable richness and excellent complexity. I'd pair these wines with a red meat such as a New York strip steak, though I think they would be even better with duck breast, pheasant or venison.

A taste of the tantalizingly delicious 2009 Franz Haas Moscato Rosa, a gorgeous red dessert wine, and my tasting was complete. A lovely day to be sure and one that started me thinking about my next trip to Alto Adige to enjoy the company of some lovely people and their marvelous wines!

Italy at 150 Years - A Labor of Love

2011-03-17T05:54:00.000-05:00

Today, Thursday, March 17 marks the 150th anniversary of the unification of Italy as a country. Given that I specialize in Italian wines in my writing and photography, I wanted to remind everyone of this and ask them to enjoy Italian wine and food today, tomorrow, the rest of the year and for as long as possible.

Many things have changed from 1861 to 2011 in Italy. Torino was the capital city back then - today, of course, it is Roma. The population in 1861 in Italy was 22 million; today that number has grown to 60 million. One hundred fifty years ago, life expectancy for men in Italy was 42, while it was 43 for women. Today, that number is 73 for men and 82 for women. *

But one thing that has not changed is the hard work put in by the Italian people. I view Italy largely through its wine industry, so I see the intensive work in the vineyards, from the pruning in the winter to the harvest in the fall. Today, there are all sorts of publications around the world that feature prose about the luxury and good life of enjoying the finest wines. I wonder how many of these writers have ever seen a harvest on a hillside under the brutal sun of Southern Italy.

So in my own little way, I'd like to celebrate this wonderful anniversary by praising all the people that make Italian wine possible, especially the workers in the vineyards. I have the luxury of traveling to Italy and drinking many great - as well as humble - wines (You'd be surprised how often I enjoy the latter more than the former); I often have the opportunity to taste these wines in some celebrated restaurants - as well as some lovely trattorie and osterie that offer more simple fare (again, the latter are often more enjoyable for me than the former). But if it weren't for these hearty souls who are in touch with their land and in love with nature, my job wouldn't be possible. Or at least, anywhere as enjoyable.

So let's all raise a glass to the vineyard workers in Italy that toil to bring us the most beautiful expressions of their territory. Population and technology change, but the love of farming the land never does. Here's to the next 150 years of these lovely Italian people giving the world their labors of love!

* Statistics are from a recent article in Corriere della Sera, one of Italy's greatest publications.

The Italian translation of this post can be found at my other blog, Learn Italian Wines.

A Discovery from Piemonte

2011-03-06T17:36:00.001-06:00

Recently I attended a wine dinner at Pelago Ristorante in my hometown of Chicago, which was organized by the importer of Ghiomo, a small estate in the Roero district of PIemonte. Present at the dinner was Giuseppino Anfossi, owner of the estate, along with his winemaker, Sergio Molino.

The Roero district is located across the Tanaro River from the Barbaresco and Barolo zones. Soils are younger and produce red wines with lighter tannins than those famous offerings, meaning that Nebbiolo from the Roero is more approachable upon release. That being the case, Barbera is often planted here as is the white variety Arneis, which has become the most recognized wine of the area.

There were two examples of the Ghiomo Arneis poured this evening: the "Fussot" and the "Imprimis", both from the excellent 2009 vintage. Both display very nice varietal character with pine and pear aromas, with the latter offering a bit more richness on the palate. Both wines are quite elegant and nicely styled for food and are also very reasonably priced, the former at $18 and the latter at $23 (US retail).

Next was my favorite wine, the 2006 Barbera d'Alba "Lavai", that offered excellent varetal purity and lovely balance. This wine was aged in large barrels, so the wood notes were quite subtle, which was a nice touch for my tastes. Too many examples of Barbera these days are excuses for the winemaker to ratchet up the oak, as if the producer is trying to make a "serious" wine out of Barbera, in other words, make a more heavy duty wine instead of crafting an elegant, tasty wine. This bottling also has lovely freshness and will offer pleasure for another 3-5 years; at $17, this is a real find. Complimenti to enologist Sergio Molino for his minimal approach to the winemaking here at Ghiomo.

Two bottlings of Nebbiolo followed: the 2006 Nebbiolo d'Alba "Vigna Granda" and the 2006 Nebbiolo d'Alba "Sansteu". Both wines are understated and quite approachable now with the latter offering a bit more punch in the finish. Look for both of these wines to drink well for the next 5-7 years. Again the purpose of these wines are to pair with food - these are not Barolo or Barbaresco meant for a decade of cellaring. Pair these with veal or pork or even braised rabbit.

The final wine of this evening was the beautifully crafted 2007 Barbera d'Alba "Ruit-Hora", sourced from the vines that receive the most sun. There is 5% Nebbiolo and this wine is a more modern style offering, aged in barriques. This is ripe and full, yet the oak is very subtle and again, the Barbera varietal flavors shine. This was a lovely way to finish the dinner especially with the creative pairing of a morel cherry in pastry as offered by Chef Mauro Mafrici.

I decided to write about this producer, as I not only loved the wines as well as the pricing, but also the honesty of this estate. Ghiomo is one of hundreds of producers in Italy that make wine without a lot of headlines - it's doubtful you'll find their name listed in books that profile the best estates of Piemonte, but then again, a lot of those lists revolve around famous names that make excellent wines to be sure, but also ones that have a lot of marketing power.

Ghiomo on the other hand, is all about making wine that captures varietal character and reflects a sense of place. Anfossi and Molino are interested first and foremost in making the best wine they can from their local vineyards. That's the beauty of Italian wine and it's one more reason to keep on with the journey - you never know when you're going to discover the next producer such as Ghiomo!

My thanks to importer Paolo Cerruti for his help and support regarding this dinner.

Alto Adige Tastings

2011-02-28T09:49:00.000-06:00

Next week, members of the wine trade in three American cities will have the opportunity to taste new releases from 20 producers from Alto Adige at special tastings. This lovely region in northeastern Italy is a spectacularly beautiful wine zone that excels at vibrant whites such as Gewurztraminer, Pinot Bianco, Sauvignon and Pinot Grigio as well as lovely reds with styles as diverse as sleek Pinot Nero to riper, more full-bodied Lagrein as well as Cabernet Sauvignon.

Here are the details on the tastings:

Chicago - Monday, March 7

River East Art Center (435 E. Illinois Street)

Walk around tasting - 12:30-5:00

RSVP to AltoAdigeChicago@gmail.com

Boston - Wednesday, March 9

Skywalk Observatory at the Prudential Tower (800 Boylston Street, 50th floor)

Walk around tasting - 12:30 - 4:00

RSVP to AltoAdigeBoston@gmail.com

New York City - Thursday, March 10

Metropolitan Pavilion (125 W. 18th Street, Metropolitan Suite)

RSVP to AltoAdigeNYC@gmail.com

Please note that these tastings are for members of the wine trade only; the public will not be allowed.

At each event, there will be a sit-down seminar featuring a number of white wines with appropriate speakers discussing each wine. The seminar begins 90 minutes before the main tasting and will last for one hour. You need to RSVP for the seminar as well.

Producers pouring at these tastings include:
Abbazia di Novacella
Arunda
Cantina Terlano
Colterenzio
Franz Haas
Alois Lageder
Terlano
Tiefenbrunner
Tramin
Elena Walch
Peter Zemmer

I hope to see you at the Chicago tasting on March 7!

Tre Bicchieri - A Success in Chicago

2011-02-23T10:07:00.000-06:00

The Gambero Rosso Tre Bicchieri tasting was held in Chicago yesterday and by numerous accounts - a classic location, an excellent turnout and a wide array of Italy's finest wines - the event was a smashing success!

This was the second year for this event in Chicago - it is also held in New York City and San Francisco - and it was once again held in the beautiful Grand Hall of Union Station, notable for its classic Greek columns as well as the site of one of the classic scenes from the movie The Untouchables. Last year, the event was held on a Friday and attendance was good, but moving it to a Tuesday made a lot of difference this year, as by my estimate, there was at least a 30% increase in attendance.

It was nice to see my fellow Chicagoans support this tasting, which is truly one of a kind. Gambero Rosso has become famous for its Tre Bicchieri ("three glasses") rating for the top wines each year in Italy (this year, only 402 wines out of more than 20,000 tasted received the award) and the results truly represent the spectacular variety that is the world of Italian wines.

If you wanted to only focus on the most famous reds, you could do that and sample Amarone from producers such as Allegrini, Masi, Tenuta Sant'Antonio and Zenato among others or you could taste Barolo from Mirafiore (Fontanafredda), Ettore Germano or Michele Chiarlo as well as Brunello di Montalcino from notable producers such as Banfi and Greppone Mazzi - and let's not forget Sassicaia!

But of course, there is a lot more to Italian wine than full-bodied reds; to balance things out there were many splendid sparkling wines from esteemed producers such as Ca' del Bosco, Guido Berlucchi, Ferrari and Villa Sandi (this last, one of the top houses of Prosecco). These wines showed wonderfully, but for me, the real surprise was the 2005 Brut from Sergio Mottura, a 100% Chardonnay from Lazio. Though Mottura has become quite well-known for his still wines made from Grechetto, I found this sparker to be even better; it is extremely elegant and round with excellent varietal character. Let's fact it, how often do you get to try a sparkling wine from Lazio?

As for white wines, the 2009 Cantina Tramin Gewurztraminer "Nussbaumer" was a standout - one smell of this wine instantly tells you this is a classic of its type - while the 2008 Livon Braide Alte is another outstanding achievement from this first-rate producer from Friuli. The 2009 Planeta Cometa, a 100% Fiano was one of the standout whites here, as was the 2009 Pietracalda from Feudi di San Gregorio in Campania.

I did find a few surprises with the reds, none more so than the 2006 Le Piane "Boca", a blend of Nebbiolo and Vespolina from a small area in northern Piemonte. This is medium-full with beautiful dried cherry fruit and young, but sleek tannins and a finish with very good acidity and notes of light dried herbs. This is a nice alternative to Barolo and it certainly can be consumed earlier. There are only a handful of producers that craft this charming red and this is one of the most stylish examples I've tasted.

I also loved the 2006 "Ceretta" Barolo from Ettore Germano, a subdued Barolo with silky tannins made in a classic traditional style as well as the remarkable 2007 Nino Negri "5 Stelle" Sfursat", a Nebbiolo with plenty of stuffing as well as an extremely long, persistent finish along with the varietally pure 2004 Mastroberardino Taurasi "Radici" Riserva, one of Campania's finest reds.

Finally, for lovers of Tuscan reds, there was an embarrassment of riches, ranging from the 2007 Flaccianello from Fontodi to the 2007 Fontalloro from Felsina to the underrated 2007 Tenuta di Valgiano from vineyards in the Lucca area. You could even taste two wines from Tua Rita: the 2008 "Perlato del Bosco" Rosso and the 2008 Rediagaffi, one of Italy's most powerful examples of 100% Merlot. This was indeed a rare treat to be able to taste the last two wines!

So given the overall success of this tasting, I am looking forward to next year's event in Chicago. It will be difficult to top this year's tasting, but I'm sure the organizing team at Gambero Rosso, lead by Tiina Eriksson, Marco Sabellico and Eleonora Guerini will be up to the task.

Fixing Chianti Classico

2011-02-21T10:31:00.000-06:00

Let's face it - Chianti Classico is one of the world's most beloved red wines. It may also be the most purchased, if you think about the availability of this wine in America, Europe and Asia. But at the same time, Chianti Classico has lost some of its luster. The wines are still well made in most cases, but it's not as easy to get consumers, sommeliers and retail wine buyers as excited about these wines as it was even just a few years ago. So to some degree, Chianti Classico needs to be fixed.

I've just returned from Florence, where I attended a special anteprima tasting for journalists from around the world; this event was aimed at previewing new releases of Chianti Classico, especially the soon-to-be released 2009s, but also Riserva bottlings from 2007 as well as new bottlings from the 2008 vintage.

First, the wonderful news - 2009 is an excellent, perhaps even outstanding vintage for Chianti Classico. I tasted a few dozen examples and again and again, found that these wines offer excellent concentration and ripeness along with very good acidity. The wines are well-structured and are very tasty- in other words, for those looking for a special bottle of wine tonight, there are many examples of 2009 Chianti Classico that will fit the bill. For others looking to lay the wines down for a few years, there are many fine bottlings that will be at their best in 3-5 years, with a few even drinking well for as long as seven to ten years.

So the first order of fixing Chianti Classico is to make better wines and in that regard, the producers were given a wonderful growing season in 2009 and took advantage.

Not every wine is a classic, if you'll pardon the pun. There are some wines that offer ripeness and are very forward and while they are appealing, they too often taste like a modern wine that could come from any number of regions in Italy or even from other countries. Yet, I have to admit that even with these wines, the enologists have lightened up on the oak, so the result is that you taste the Sangiovese fruit. This is a very positive sign and I for one, am happy to report this situation.

As for the best examples of Chianti Classico normale from 2009, a few of my favorites include: the deeply concentrated Monsanto; the elegant and beautifully crafted Isole e Olena; the terroir-driven Castellare di Castellina; the deeply fruity Querciabella; the charming, varietally pure Villa Calcinaia and the marvelously crafted, sublime bottling from Rocca di Montegrossi.

Briefly, I also want to note two wines from the 2008 vintage, a year that is lighter than 2009, but one that yielded some charming wines. The two finest I tasted at this event were the Castello di Brolio and the Fontodi. The former is the top wine of the estate owned by Francesco Ricasoli, who prefers to label this wine as Chianti Classico, even though it meets the necessary regulations to be identified as a Riserva. The wine has such lovely varietal purity and length in the finish; it is a polished, delicious wine. The Fontodi is likewise delicious with velvety tannins and a wonderful sense of place. This estate, under the leadership of Giovanni Manetti is at the top of its game and is clearly one of the very best houses in Chianti Classico. This 2008 normale can age well for another 5-7 years, but it is so appealing and tasty now - bravo Signore Manetti (and also to his enologist, Franco Bernabei)!

So there will certainly be renewed excitement with these new wines on the market. But more needs to be done. While I was in Florence, I enjoyed a glass of wine with Sebastiano Capponi, proprietor of Villa Cacinaia, located in Greve in Chianti. Capponi confirmed to me that discussions are finally underway among the producers in the consorzio about putting the names of subzones (such as Panzano, Greve, Radda, et al) on the labels. The thinking here is that there needs to be more information on the label than just the words "Chianti Classico."

According to Capponi: "We have Chianti Classico that sell between 3 Euro a bottle and 30 Euro a bottle in Europe. All of them are labeled as Chianti Classico, yet the wines are very different. There needs to be a better system." (Editor's note: prices for Chianti Classico in the US as confirmed by Capponi doing a search of various websites are between $7 and $30 a bottle).

For Capponi and others, labeling the wines with a subzone will create a "quality pyramid", which will no doubt create more interest and excitement in the wines of Chianti Classico. Capponi also told me that Giovanni Manetti at Fontodi has reportedly said that if the subzones are allowed on the labels, he will once again label his top wine, Flaccianello dell Pieve, as Chianti Classico. This would certainly be a wonderful realization for Chianti Classico as a wine type, as this wine is currently labeled as an IGT Toscana Rosso, even though it could legally be identified as a Chianti Classico, given that it is 100% Sangiovese from estate vineyards. "If he decides to do it," notes Capponi, "other producers with Sangiovese-based IGT Super Tuscans might follow."

So the stars are aligning for Chianti Classico. The wines from 2009 (and some of the finest from 2008) are first-rate and should be purchased by sommeliers, retail wine buyers and consumers everywhere. If the subzone labeling can indeed become a reality, it will mean a new era of excitement for this iconic red wine.

P.S. One final note. At this event, producers were allowed to bring one Super Tuscan with them. Some producers as well as journalists who attended the tastings were against this, as this has been an event that focuses on Chianti Classico. I can understand their thoughts and respect them.

However for myself and many other journalists (as well as vintners), this was a nice opportunity to experience the latest Super Tuscans. As producers were only allowed to pour one Super Tuscan and it had to be from their own zone (in other words, they could not show a wine from the Maremma or Bolgheri), this category did not steal the show, as most producers had three of four examples of Chianti Classico to pour from various vintages (2006-2009) and various types (normale, riserva).

Now that one realizes that the subzone plan may become a reality, it made sense to see what some of these wines were about. For myself, it was certainly a nice treat to sample the 2007 Flaccianello - what a gorgeous wine! Imagine in the near future - this may be Chianti Classico again. Isn't that a nice thought?

Tre Bicchieri Tour Thoughts

2011-02-08T13:26:00.000-06:00

It's that time of year again - lucky Italian wine lovers in three cities across America will be able to attend the annual Tre Bicchieri event organized by Gambero Rosso. The publication, considered Italy's wine bible, judges tens of thousands of Italian wines each year and honors a few hundred with their top rating of Tre Bicchieri (three glasses). These wines, emerging from all over the country, represent every style of Italian wines, from the beautiful sparkling wines of Francicorta to the shimmering whites of Alto Adige and Friuli to the most famous reds from Toscana, Piemonte, Veneto, Campania and many other regions.

This really is one of the finest and most comprehensive Italian wine tastings you could ever hope to attend (I know as I've been to three of them in the US), so for the trade, this is something you cannot miss. Here are the dates:

SAN FRANCISCO: February 16th
Press/Media: 2-3 PM PST
Public: 3 - 7 PM PST
Fort Mason Center - Herbst Pavillion | SAN FRANCISCO, CA 94123 – 1382

NEW YORK: February 18th, 2011

Friday February 18, 2011 from 2:00 PM to 7:00 PM EST
Metropolitan Pavilion | 125 West 18th Street (between 6th and 7th avenue) | NEW YORK, NY 10011

CHICAGO: February 22th, 2011
2:00 PM to 7:00 PM CST

Union Station - 210 South Canal Street | CHICAGO, IL 60606

More information can be found at this link:

To RSVP for any of these tastings, contact Christine Volkmer at: gambero@volkmerpr.com

Marco Sabellico, Gambero Rosso (Image - Porzioni Cremona)

Recently I spoke with Marco Sabellico, senior editor, Italian wines for the guide (look for him at the tastings), about several things about the tour, including what it means to the producers.

Tom Hyland:

What is the major benefit with this tour? How do the producers benefit - do some producers benefit more than others (perhaps a small producer from Lazio or Marche as compared to one from Toscana or Piemonte)? What is the primary benefit for Gambero Rosso?

Marco Sabellico:

The main benefit of the tour is for the people who attend the events: They have a lot of top-quality wines and producers altogether. As for wineries small ones enjoy the benefit of being close to the well known names, the big ones get some audience from those who come only for small and unknown new names. Gambero is proud to be the brand who makes this possible, and a fantastic ambassador of high profile italian wineries in the world... so everybody is happy...

TH: How does the tour differ in the United States than in Italy or other countries?

MS:
I must say that I notice a more sophisticated and expert audience... and a lot of professionals compared to the venues of other countries...

TH:
What are the reactions you've seen from Americans that attend these tastings? How do they enjoy this event?

MS:
Excellent reactions. Most of them, especially in NY and San Francisco are regulars who have been attending for more than 5 years... They keep on coming... (Editor's note: this is only the second Tre Bicchieri tasting to be held in Chicago.)

TH: Finally, what do you personally enjoy most about these events?

MS:
We all enjoy our trips to the USA... we meet a lot of dedicated wine lovers, passionate collectors, and we have a chance to visit fantastic restaurants... It's important for us to see what's new in the USA...

How nice that Gambero Rosso makes the effort each year to conduct these tastings and offer so many great Italian producers the opportunity to showcase their wines. Marco, thank you for the excellent insight and thank you to those at Gambero Rosso for making these tastings possible.

I hope to see many of you in Chicago on February 22!

Wining and Dining in New York

2011-02-03T14:02:00.000-06:00

A few notes on some wonderful dining experiences from last week in New York City:

I began my week with dinner at La Pizza Fresca on 20th Street in the Flatiron district with my friends Stefania and Filippo Rocchi from Tuscany, who were in town for the Vino2011 event to pour the newest releases from their Castelvecchio estate in the Chianti Colli Fiorentini district. I had heard wonderful things about this restaurant, which was one of the first truly authentic Neapolitan pizzerie in America. I was not disappointed, beginning my meal with tagliatelle con norcina, a perfectly cooked pasta dish with sausage and cream sauce. For our first pizza, we selected the Bianca Neve (literally "white snow") made from bufala mozzarella, cherry tomatoes and garlic. What a pizza this was, with marvelously fresh mozzarella flavor and a remarkable crust. Our wine choice was the 2009 Feudi di San Gregorio Greco di Tufo, which was a perfect accompaniment to the earthiness of this pizza.

For our second pizza, we selected the Savoia, made from porcini, pancetta, fontina cheese and bufala mozzarella. This was a great contrast to our first selection with nice weight and texture. Co-owner Brad Bonnewell, who cooked our pizzas, came over to suggest some Barolo with this pizza (you couldn't drink white wine with a pizza such as this), so we took his advice and tried two bottlings from the excellent 1998 vintage, which just happens to be one of my favorites. Brad brought over two special bottlings, one the "Vigna Arborina" from Elio Altare and the Domenico Clerico "Ciabot Mentin Ginestra". Both are quite powerful with the Clerico being a bit more approachable, given its more supple tannins. Both worked marvelously with the pizza and my great thanks to Brad for suggesting these wines as well as taking the time to discuss his outstanding wine list with us (yes, do go there for the wine list as well as the pizza - it is without a doubt the most detailed wine list I've ever seen in a pizzeria, be it in Italy or America). Thanks also to Brad for crafting such great pizzas as well - I'll definitely be back soon! (Incidentally, if I didn't make myself perfectly clear, this is one of the finest pizzerie I've eaten at in the United States.)

Later in the week, it was lunch with my good friend Tom Maresca, a fellow journalist and Italian wine lover, who lives in Manhattan. I've known Tom for about five or six years now, having traveled to Italy on several occasions with him (I've followed his writing for more than twenty years) and always enjoy his company as he's an individual who is extremely knowledgeable and very comfortable with his status in life, a quality I greatly admire.

Tom writes an entertaining blog in which he gives his thoughts on wines from the world (primarily Italian, but also some from France and California); every once in a while he writes about food as well (what is wine for, but pairing with food anyway?) and a few months ago profiled The Oyster Bar in Grand Central Station. I had just seen a documentary on Grand Central and thought it would be neat to eat in this glorious building, and by the way, Tom's prose on the array of seafood here made this place seem like nirvana.

I didn't tell Tom before, but I did confess when we arrived that I didn't care for oysters, but as I had seen the choices on the menu, I knew I'd have no problem finding something I liked. Or should I say loved? I opted for the New Bedford Sea Scallops with tartar sauce and french fries and did I ever make a wise decision. These scallops were as delicious and as flavorful as I've ever had and along with Tom's selection of oysters followed by a Po' Boy sandwich, we were both as satisfied as two hungry journalists could be on a cold winter's day. We were tasting Italian wine all day long, so Tom suggested we try a Muscadet, which I approved, as I love the wine, but rarely try any examples these days. The bottling was the Domaine de la Grenaudiere "La Grenouille" from the outstanding 2009 vintage. Displaying excellent freshness, earthiness and a light minerality, this was an ideal partner for our food. Sitting at the bar made this meal seem just a little more inviting, though I'd sit on the floor for seafood this good!

Raw Seafood Salad, Felidia

Finally there was my farewell dinner at Felidia on East 58th Street with my friend Filippo Antonelli and his teen-age son. I've known Antonelli for several years and have visited his winery in the Umbria region, where he is one of the leaders in producing the wonderful Sagrantino di Montefalco in a traditional style. Filippo emailed me a few weeks before arriving in New York and invited me to dinner, letting me select the restaurant (what a guy!)

That's a great invitation for any big city, but especially in New York, and while I had literally hundreds of choices, my first inclination was to opt for one of Lidia and Joseph Bastianich's restaurants. Between them, they operate more than a dozen eateries in New York City alone and I've been dazzled by previous meals at Babbo and Del Posto. As I hadn't dined at Felidia before, that was my choice, which Signore Antonelli happily accepted.

I came in with high expectations and to my delight, every one of them was met and even succeeded. Naturally the freshness of the ingredients is quite special, so combine that with the amazing creativity in the kitchen (Fortunato Nicotra is the executive chef) and you've got the recipe for an amazing meal. Fresh octopus (polipo) and veal cheeks were tantalizing and perfectly cooked, as were all the pastas. Of these, the most delightful was the cacao ravioli (yes, cacao) stuffed with butternut squash and served with an amaretto cookie, which you could grate on top of the ravioli. What an array of flavors in this dish and how delicate at the same time.

The wine program is excellent (more on that in a future post) and the list covers the Italian peninsula with great complexity (though not as in depth as the incredible list at Del Posto). It's always nice when one wine jumps off the list and for me that night, it was the 1999 Cavallotto Barolo Bricco Boschis, one of my favorite wines from one of the great producers in Piemonte. Elegant and supple with deep concentration, the wine showed beautifully with the meal, yet still promises several years of pleasure ahead.

The service at Felidia was outstanding in every respect. The tables were cleared in an orderly, polite fashion and we never had to wait too long for the next dish. The front end manager was kind enough to warn us about the ice and slippery conditions outside, as a serious blizzrd was underway that evening. It's little things like this that elevate a restaurant from very good to outstanding service; you're treated with great respect here and who doesn't treasure that?

So a great few days in Manhattan, wine and food wise. People ask me all the time if I can make any money at what I'm doing and I usually laugh and tell them that's a great question. But I can assuredly say that I'm having a great time doing what I'm doing.

Next week, more of the same in Toscana - both in Firenze and Montalcino. I'm already thinking about the first dinner!

Food, Wine, Cold and Snow

2011-01-29T10:27:00.001-06:00

Looking west on 50th Street, just off Park Avenue, 1/27/11

How I ate, drank, bundled up and managed my way through a wild week in Manhattan

I have just returned from four wonderful days in New York City, attending the Vino2011 event, sponsored by the Italian Trade Commission. This was the third year for this event, which celebrates Italian wines of all types, from the most basic to the most glorious. There were more than a dozen seminars over the course of two days, ranging on a wide variety of topics from social media to Italian foods and of course, there were several tastings, the most impressive the Grand Tasting on the final day, which featured several hundred producers pouring their newest - and in some instances, future - releases.

As for the seminars, there were explorations of territories and regions such as Soave, Friuli, Lombardia, Puglia and one on the various wine styles of the Montefalco zone in Umbria. Each seminar featured 8-10 wines which were often presented by the producers themselves; this was one of the primary positives of this event, having the opportunity to taste and compare wines in a sit-down presentation, which in several cases was augmented by a detailed study of the area's soils and history by the famed Dr. Attilio Scienza, arguably Italy's leading authority on indigenous grape varieties.

I participated in a seminar on competitions that present medals to winning wines; the basic premise being if medals still mean anything to wine buyers or consumers. Points from magazines were also brought up and I argued that there are many Italian wines - especially those made from indigenous varieties in a traditional style - that do not receive 92-95 points, simply as they are not made in the trendy international style that dazzles the editors at a few influential magazines. In my opinion, a Soave or Verdicchio or Greco di Tufo will almost never be awarded 95 points, as the wines aren't as exciting to these publications as other Italian bottlings. Thus I argued that maybe more Italian producers should think about entering competitions, as their wines would be judged against similar types and not against some mythical definition of greatness. Whether this will happen is anyone's guess, as Italians as a rule tend to market their wines with a human and historical angle, which may or may not jive with a gold, silver or bronze medal.

The Grand Tasting was spread out over five rooms, which meant that tasters were not having to fight for room to get close to the producers, allowing everyone a chance to talk to them. I made some new discoveries from Calabria (Statti) and Abruzzo (Rodea-Gran Sasso) that were nicely balanced with good varietal flavor and fairly priced; I was also pleasantly surprised by the complexity and depth of fruit of the 2009 Ribolla Gialla from Isidoro Polencic of Friuli as well as the suppleness of the 2009 Fontanabianca Nebbiolo Langhe, a beautifully rendered version of this wine type.

Elisabetta Polencic, Az. Agr. Isidoro Polencic

Tastings such as these are so valuable not only as you get an opportunity to taste some of Italy's best wines, but also some of its best values. Thus the tasting was a wonderful overview of what is going on in Italian wine today, from every region. Thanks to the organizers of this tasting and of course, thanks to the producers for coming over from Italy to sample their wines, be it Refosco, Pecorino or Pinot Nero.

During the week, I was able to enjoy a few special meals, including lunch at the famous Oyster Bar in Grand Central Station as well as dinners at La Pizza Fresca in the Flatiron District and at Felidia, one of the showcase restaurants of Lidia and Joseph Bastianich. Each of these meals was first-rate and I'll write a post about my dining experiences soon. Come to think of it, these meals had a lot in common with the Grand Tasting, given the diversity and quality. I can get excited over a great pizza or fabulous sea scallops just as much as I can over veal medallions and when you add in the perfect wine pairing, well, I'm in heaven!

Brad Bonnewell, La Pizza Fresca

It was a wonderful week- great wines and sublime food. How could I not love that? Even bitterly cold weather (barely above 10 degrees F on Monday) and a blizzard that dumped 15 inches of snow over Wednesday night and Thursday morning couldn't get me down. But then again, I live in Chicago- why would a blast of winter bother me?

For Love of Italian Wine

2011-01-19T10:41:00.000-06:00

Next week, courtesy of the Italian Trade Commission, I will be attending Vino2011, arguably the finest Italian wine event held in the United States. This the third time this event has been held in New York City; I attended last year's event and was quite impressed with the organization of so many excellent tastings and seminars that explored the vast world of Italian wine.

This year, I have the good fortune of being a panel speaker for a special seminar entitled "Where Have all the Medals Gone?", in which my fellow panelists and I will discuss the importance of medals and points regarding today's wine buying decisions. This should prove to be a fascinating seminar, especially in regards to the uniqueness of Italian wines, especially those made from indigenous varieties.

I'll also be attending several seminars, including ones about Friuli, moderated by Tom Maresca, one of the country's leading writers on Italian wines, as well as the rediscovery of Soave and the overlooked but wonderful Sagrantino di Montefalco. Other seminars include one on award winning wines from Tuscany, moderated by Master of Wine Ronn Weigand and one on the distinctive reds of Puglia, moderated by Bill Marsano, an Italian wine specialist and former James Beard award winning writer.

There will be several other seminars devoted to the future of Italian wines as well as special theme dinners and perhaps best of all, a grand tasting on the final day with several hundred Italian producers in attendance pouring their latest releases. I'm looking forward to a great four days in New York City!

This is a trade event - information can be found on the Vino2011 website.

A Dynamic Biodynamic Wine

2011-01-12T13:29:00.000-06:00

There is a lot of talk these days about organic and biodynamic viticulture in several wine regions around the world. Several producers in Chile have turned to organic farming, while a precious few are now working according to biodynamic practices (" a natural biological balance"- read more here). For me the leading biodynamic producer in Chile is Emiliana, located in Colchagua Valley).

There are all sorts of thoughts about biodynamic wines and how they differ from traditionally farmed vineyards; for me, the finest examples have a finesse and length to them that I don't often find in "standard" wines. That is certainly true with the Emiliana Coyam from the 2007 vintage. This is a complex wine, blended from Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon, Carmenere, Merlot and Petit Verdot, aged in both French and American oak. Medium-full, the wine has beautiful black cherry, black plum and cigar box aromas, a generous mid-palate and a nicely structured finish with good acidity and nicely balanced tannins. This is approachable now, but should be at its best in 5-7 years; I'd recommend pairing this with veal medallions, roast pork or duck. The retail price is $29, which I think is quite fair, given the structure, complexity and elegance of this wine. You will not be disappointed.

Chianti Classico and the SuperTuscans

2010-12-07T08:59:00.000-06:00

Recently there have been a few bloggers that have reported about the inclusion of SuperTuscans at the Chianti Classico tasting organized by the Chianti Classico Consorzio in Florence. This is an annual tasting that is held in February and plans are to include SuperTuscans along with the bottlings of Chianti Classico from the Consorzio producers.

Early information had noted the inclusion of the SuperTuscans, but then a few days later, there was a report of a vote to exclude these wines. I thought I would go to the source to learn what is really happening. I emailed Silvia Fiorentini, Marketing and Communications Manager for the Chianti Classico Consorzio, asking her what will and will not be sampled at the event. Here is her response from an email I received this morning:

"Everything remains unchanged. SuperTuscans (only one per estate and only coming from the Chianti territory) will be presented at the producers' desks."

Hopefully, this clears everything up.

It seems that some wine journalists and bloggers were upset that SuperTuscans would be included in this event, believing that Chianti Classico should not have to share the spotlight with these more hyped wines. The decision as it stands now, seems like a very good solution to what could be a problem. Only allowing one SuperTuscan per producer means that these wines will not dominate. Personally, I believe this will make for a more interesting tasting, as it will give the journalists a chance to compare and contrast.

To me, this is all about common sense; it's not about drawing a line in the sand. As regulations stand now, the difference between a Chianti Classico and a SuperTuscan can be minimal; in fact there are some SuperTuscans that could today be identified as a Chianti Classico, given the changes over the past 15 years in regulations. (Kyle Phillips recently wrote an excellent post on the meaning of SuperTuscans. Read it here and read my followup post here.)

I respect the opinions of those who argue for the purity of Chianti Classico and who are against this decision. But I am in favor of this new pronouncement, as it gives a journalist such as myself the option of trying what I want and organizing a tasting that is best suited to my needs. Trying the various wine types against each other provides an invaluable education and to me learning about Italian wines at events such as these are what makes my job so fascinating; discovering all the wines of this territory is truly an ongoing learning process.

A Gem from Francis Ford Coppola

2010-12-02T19:51:00.000-06:00

Everyone knows the name of Francis Ford Coppola, most likely as the director of such outstanding films as Apocalypse Now, The Conversation and The Godfather Trilogy, but also as the owner of one of Napa Valley's finest wine estates. Located in the heart of Rutherford, just west of Highway 29, this farm has been one of Napa's most famous Cabernet Sauvignon estates, ever since its founding in 1880 by Gustave Niebaum, a Finnish sea captain.

Niebaum named the estate Inglenook and with an eye on producing reds that could challenge the world's best, received such praise from several corners in Europe. Prohibition slowed things in Napa, but upon repeal, Niebaum's wife's grand-nephew John Daniel, Jr. took over the estate and elevated the wines to even greater heights, which continued through the 1940s, '50s and early '60s. In 1975, Coppola purchased this glorious estate, which had lost much of its glamor and aimed to make great wines again; he named it Niebaum-Coppola.

His first great wine - and one that he continues to produce today - was called Rubicon, primarily Cabernet Sauvignon from a clone Niebaum brought over from France. The first vintage, the 1978, was released in 1985 and immediately brought Coppola new fame as a vintner as well as movie icon. Several vintages later, the wine was hailed as one of Napa Valley's most distinguished, a status it maintains to this day.

While Rubicon has always been the most recognized wine from this estate - indeed, Coppola used this nomenclature as the new name for the estate - there is another outstanding Cabernet Sauvignon produced from these certified organic estate vineyards. Named Cask Cabernet, in honor of the famous Cask wines produced by John Daniel, the wine is 100% Cabernet Sauvignon aged not in small French barrels, a la Rubicon, but in mid-size (500 liter) American puncheons.

The first vintage, the 1995, debuted in 1998; I've tried a handful of vintages since and have always been impressed with the balance and polish of this wine as well as its terroir. Any discussion of terroir with Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon has always been a trick thing, in for no other reason that many of the vineyards are quite young and have yet to develop specific characteristics. But with the Cask Cabernet, we are talking about vineyards that are decades old on soils that yielded some of California's finest Cabernet Sauvignons during the 1940s and '50s.

I tasted the 2006 the other night and greatly enjoyed the wine for several reasons. This is medium-full - 2006 was not a powerful vintage - with a generous mid-palate that offers tightly packed fruit, balanced acidity and firm, but balanced tannins. There is also a distinct earthiness in the finish - what Napa Valley Cabernet lovers refer to as "Rutherford Dust." The oak is admirably subdued and there is excellent persistence. While it is balanced enough for big red meats now, this wine needs time to show its best qualities. It should round out nicely in another 5-7 years and drink well for another 7-10 after that. Given that, the $75 tag for a 100% Cabernet Sauvignon from one of Napa Valley's most historic plots is a reasonable price. Bravo to Francis Ford Coppola and his viticultural and winemaking team on this marvelous accomplishment!

One Step Forward, Two Steps Backwards

2010-11-30T08:41:00.000-06:00

Regarding my constant look at the coverage of Italian wine by The Wine Spectator, it seems there is some good news and some not-so-good news. Let's start with the good.

Bruce Sanderson took over the job of writing about Italian wines for the magazine recently and from what I've seen so far (admittedly a small sample), I have to congratulate him on his views. In the November 30 edition, Sanderson rewarded the small estate of Cascina Roccalini in the town of Barbaresco with some very high scores, with the highest rating being a 93 for the winery's 2008 Barbera d'Alba.

I tasted this offering at the winery this past May, thanks to the US importer Terence Hughes, who set up my appointment after I expressed interest in trying these wines, which I had read about on his blog. I loved all the wines from Cascina Roccalini, especially this Barbera, which is an amazing wine (see the post from my other blog). The wines have great varietal purity, impeccable balance and beautiful structure. This is certainly a combination of several factors, including the viticulture of owner Paolo Veglio as well as the superb winemaking of Dante Scaglione, best known to Italian wine lovers as the former winemaker for Bruno Giacosa.

As you might imagine from his previous work, Scaglione makes wines in a traditional style; that is to say, wines aged in grandi botti, large casks as opposed to the small French oak barriques. Many wine writers have joined me in my preference for traditionally aged wines from Piemonte, as they best express a sense of place instead of emphasizing a dark color or a the obvious sweet and spicy notes of small oak.

Readers of this blog know of my disdain for the previous individual who covered Italian wines at the Spectator. Suffice it to say that he clearly preferred modern wines made in an international style. Like what you want, but do your job and give credit to those vintners that continue to make wines that represent their heritage. There are just too many internationally-styled wines out there today. We all expect a different style of cuisine when we go to Italy - we don't go there to have a hamburger (or foie gras, for that matter), so is it too much to ask that producers in Italy continue to be honored for their traditional views? That they should be rewarded for making wines that are singular and not aimed at following a trend?

So thanks to Sanderson for his glowing reviews of the Cascina Roccalini wines. Maybe we will see a shift in the publication's Italian wine coverage, but I'll wait a while before I'm fully satisfied. (By the way, here is a link to Terence Hughes' blog with a mention of Sanderson's reviews. Thanks again to Terence for letting me know about these wines. Production is rather small, so the wines are only in a few markets.)

That's the good news. Now for the bad and I'll keep it brief. The Spectator has recently announced its Top 100 wines for the year, what the publication labels as the "year's most exciting wines." There are exactly nine wines from Italy that made the list.

Now while I think there should me more than nine, I won't criticize them for this; let's face it, there are impressive wines being produced in many countries these days, so they need to let their readers know about them. But it's the choice of wines that irks me. Of the nine wines, seven are from Tuscany. Seven of nine! You'd think this was the only region in Italy that produced notable wines (the other wines - one each - are from the Friuli and Veneto regions). Nothing from Piedmont? Nothing, especially given the new releases of 2006 Barolo and 2007 Barbaresco? Nothing from Sicily, Campania, Alto Adige, Lombardia or Umbria? This proves to me the lack of balanced coverage of Italian wines by the magazine.

Of the nine wines, eight are red. While I expected a significantly larger proportion of Italian reds to whites on this list, this balance is highly questionable. But even if you only have one white wine to represent Italy on your Top 100 list, you select a Pinot Grigio? This is one of the year's most "exciting" wines? Have the writer (or writers) not tried any white wines from Alto Adige or Campania recently? Or other producers from Friuli? There are dozens of impressive wines from these regions, especially from the outstanding 2009 vintage. Just to name a few producers who have made gorgeous Italian whites over the past year, I'd go with Cantina Tramin, Cantina Terlano, Elena Walch, J. Hofstatter (Alto Adige); Edi Keber, Zuani, Livio Felluga, Marco Felluga, Livon (Friuli) and finally Feudi di San Gregorio, Mastroberardino, Vadiaperti and Luigi Maffini from Campania. (One final note on this: the Pinot Grigio is from Attems, a nicely made wine, but one that is hardly exciting, especially when compared to the whites listed above. To make matters worse, the 2008 bottling is the one that made the list, even though the 2009 has been on American retail shelves for several months now, which means that the 2008 is probably gone.)

It seems as though the old administration at the magazine may have had a lot to do with this list, as a few of the wines that made the Top 100 from Italy have been represented before. Yes, there are some new entries here, but again, the list is just a dull one. Let's hope this year is the last time the publication selects such a poor representation of Italian wines. I hope that's the case, but I'm not betting on it.