tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-48402307084360515772024-03-08T05:33:24.702-06:00Reflections on WineViews on wines from Italy, California, Chile, Argentina and other great regions of the world from a freelance writer and photographertom hylandhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15059595835440742055noreply@blogger.comBlogger253125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4840230708436051577.post-87526019027802801382017-07-28T10:38:00.002-05:002017-07-28T10:38:54.384-05:00New from Dopff & Irion<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<span style="font-family: inherit;">I always appreciate getting a chance to taste Alsatian wines, given their varietal purity and structure. These are Old World wines in the best sense, but of course, made with the latest in technology.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;">I recently samples three new releases from the famed Alsatian producer Dopff & Irion. Located in Riquewihr in the Haut-Rhin area of Alsace, the winery was established in 1945, and is today, housed in the Chateau di Riquewihr. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;">I read quite a lot about small artisan estates in Alsace, yet not much about this famous producer, so I was intrigued to taste these new wines. Here are my notes:</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;"><b>Dopff & Irion Cremant d'Alsace Rosé Brut</b></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;">Many producers make sparkling wine in Alsace; here these wines are labeled as Cremant d'Alsace. There are traditional Brut versions as well as rosé. This is 100% Pinot Noir; pale orange color, aromas of dried strawberry and orange zest. Medium-bodied, good acidity, moderate persistence. Clean, dry and balanced, this is pleasant, but lacks depth. Enjoy over the next 12-15 months. <b>Good</b></span></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Dopff & Irion Pinot Blanc “Cuvée René Dopff” 2015</span></b></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">This was my favorite of the new releases I tasted. In Alsace, Riesling is the king of grapes, with Gewurztraminer and Pinot Gris being considered noble grapes as well. Poor old Pinot Blanc, however, is thought of a simple, every day wine (a producer I know calls Pinot Blanc "glug, glug wine"). </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">This is a very fine version. Light yellow; aromas of golden apples and dried yellow
flowers. Medium-bodied with good depth of fruit, good acidity, a light
earthiness in the finish and very good persistence. Nice complexity and
persistence. Nice typicity and varietal character. Enjoy now and over the next
2-3 years. <b>Very good value and quality.</b></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><b>Dopff & Irion Chateau de Riquewihr Riesling Grand Cru Schoenenburg 2011</b></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Light golden yellow; aromas of apricot, honey and guava. Medium-full, quite ripe, very good persistence, balanced acidity, dry finish. Rich and ripe, this lacks some acidity (no doubt due to the very warm 2011 growing season), and while offering very impressive varietal purity, it does not offer the harmony or complexity of the finest Grand Cru Rieslings. Now-3 years, perhaps longer. <b>Very good</b></span></div>
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tom hylandhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15059595835440742055noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4840230708436051577.post-18293251347779734502017-04-29T10:08:00.001-05:002017-04-29T10:08:07.253-05:00Carrying on the Mondavi Way<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<b>Joe Harden, winemaker, Robert Mondavi Winery </b>(Photo courtesy of Robert Mondavi Winery)</div>
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I can still remember my first visit to Napa Valley; it was just after I graduated from college in Chicago in 1978, and at 22, I wanted to see where all this great wine was coming from. At that time, Napa was an important wine region, but it was downright sleepy compared to what is has become today. </div>
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One of the most famous wineries back then was Robert Mondavi in Oakville, toward the southern end of Napa Valley. There were several factors for this, not only the direction that Mr. Mondavi had given to this project - basically using the French model of fine estate wines, instead of churning out simple bulk wines - but it was also the handsome, mission-style architecture of the winery, designed by Cliff May, that was a lovely welcome to the winery in particular, as well as to Napa Valley in general.<br />
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I've thoroughly enjoyed that first visit with eyes wide open, and I experienced a number of great visits to the winery over the years, from a tour of the famous To Kalon vineyard, just behind the winery, to a memorable lunch with Robert and his wife Margrit. There have been a lot of changes at the winery over the past 15 or so years as most wine lovers know, and as for myself, it's been more than a decade since I've been this way.<br />
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So when I received an invitation to a Robert Mondavi winery dinner in Chicago featuring winemaker Joe Harden, it didn't take me long to respond affirmatively. I wanted to taste for myself if the Robert Mondavi wines were still of that same high quality I was used to in the 1980s and '90s. I can assure you that I was quite impressed after tasting these wines that evening.<br />
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Fumé Blanc has always been a focus at Mondavi; it was Robert who admired the Sauvignon Blancs of the Loire Valley and used the word "fumé" from that region's famous Pouilly-Fumé to identify his new dry wine made from Sauvignon Blanc. Fumé in France means "smoky", so here would be a dry white with a noticeable smoky, tangy quality. The wine was an instant success when intoduced in the mid 1960s and has been a staple from Robert Mondavi ever since.</div>
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Two versions were served at dinner: the classic Fumé Blanc from the 2015 vintage, and the 2014 Fumé Blanc Reserve. The first wine is well made with a light touch of that tangy grassiness that the variety is known for, while the melon fruit is quite attractive. Nicely balance with good acidity, this is meant to be consumed over the next 2-3 years.</div>
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The Reserve Fumé Blanc takes things up two or three notches, as the fruit comes entirely from the famed To Kalon Vineyard, directly behind the winery. As some of the fruit in this wine is from vines that are almost 50 years old (the T Block section of To Kalon was planted in 1960!), this is a wine with great character and richness; the nose reveals aromas of pear and tea leaf. Medium-full with excellent texture and beautiful complexity, this displays a more assertive grassy, herbal character, albeit in a restrained manner, as compared to the classic Fumé. This is excellent and should drink well for another five years, perhaps even longer.</div>
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Moving to the reds, there were two on tap for dinner, the 2014 Maestro and the 2014 Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve. The former is a blended red that changes its mix and percentages of varieties according to the vintage, with the 2014 being 73% Cabernet Sauvignon (thus it cannot be called Cabernet Sauvignon, as it is not at least 75% of that variety), 23% Cabernet Franc, 2% Merlot and 2% Petit Verdot. This has a good deal of attractive plum and cassis fruit with attractive notes of red flowers; there is good acidity, the wood notes are not too strong and there is very good complexity. This is a polished Napa red, delightful now, but meant to be enjoyed in another 7-10 years.</div>
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The 2014 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon (not yet released) is a brilliant success, a blend of 93% Cabernet Sauvignon, 6% Cabernet Franc and 1% Petit Verdot; the fruit is entirely from the To Kalon Vineyard. Deep ruby red with a light purple edge, the aromas are enticing, with notes of black cherry, black plum and hint of vanilla from small oak barrels. Offering excellent depth of fruit, good acidity, impressive persistence and ideal harmony, this has the stuffing and structure to age for at least 12-15 years, and I may be a bit conservative in that estimate.</div>
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It is a wine such as this, along with the Fumé Blanc Reserve that instantly communicates to me a continuation of the Robert Mondavi style. To me that is grace, elegance, varietal purity and drinkability. The climate is so beneficial in Napa Valley, that is is easy for producers to craft a powerhouse wine, one destined to receive high scores. If that's your style, fine, but you'll have to go elsewhere in Napa for that. Robert Mondavi wines have always had the proper acidity to maintain harmony, a critical factor for pairing these wines with food. I can only speak for myself, but I enjoy wine with food, as wine does not exist in a vacuum. Wine on its own may offer a certain fascination, like a beautiful dress, but it's how that dress looks on an attractive woman that counts - it's the entire presentation that matters. Likewise, it's how a particular wine pairs with a specific dish that is the ultimate judge of a wine for my thinking.</div>
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So compliments to winemakers Joe Harden, Megan Schofield and Genevieve Janssens (director of winemaking) for maintaining Robert Mondavi's vision. He would be proud.</div>
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tom hylandhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15059595835440742055noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4840230708436051577.post-82127354610119482802017-02-15T13:16:00.001-06:002017-02-15T13:16:57.049-06:00Champagne Insight<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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My recently published book <i>The Essence of Champagne: In the Glass and at the Table</i> focuses on 50 producers, ranging from large, well-known houses, such as Veuve Clicquot and Perrier-Jouet, to small growers, such as Cédric Bouchard, David Léclapart and others. I wrote chapters about each producer, so the book is a collection of essays about these vintners, including not only technical information such as vineyards and blending, but also personal philosophy on their Champagnes.<br />
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Here are a few excerpts from the book:<br />
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<i>"I don't think that owning your vineyards, which is a sign of richness, is a necessary evil to make quality Champagne." </i>- <b>Gilles Dumangin</b>, <b>J. Dumangin</b>, Chigny-Les-Roses (Montagne de Reims)<br />
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<i>"I learned that finesse and elegance are the most important things in creating a great wine." </i>- <b>Odilon de Varine</b>, chef-de-caves, <b>Gosset</b>, Epernay (Vallée de la Marne)</div>
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<i>"The public has little awareness of our company, yet you have the Champagne fanatics that have high respect and love for our wines." </i>- <b>Cyril Brun</b>, chef-de-caves, <b>Charles Heidsieck</b>, Reims (Montage de Reims)</div>
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<b>Dominique Demarville </b>(Photo ©Tom Hyland)<br />
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<i>"They </i>(Chardonnay and Pinot Noir) <i>have wonderful potential for aging, especially when the year is good. Of course, from year to year, sometimes the Chardonnay is better, sometimes the Pinot Noir. In reality, it depends mostly on the area and climate - essentially rainfall - that we have." </i> - <b>Dominique Demarville</b>, chef-de-caves, <b>Veuve Clicquot</b>, Reims</div>
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<i>"We try to make something quite natural, preserving the balance of nature, which of course, is the approach of biodynamic. Put a lot of love in your vineyards, and your vineyards will give back to you." </i>- <b>Frédéric Zeimett</b>, managing director, <b>Leclerc Briant</b>, Epernay</div>
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<b>Pierre Larmandier </b>(Photo ©Tom Hyland)</div>
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<i>"I think that with biodynamic, the wines are a little more intense. What we think also is that we are never tired. We have energy from biodynamic." </i>- <b>Pierre Larmandier</b>, Champagne <b>Larmandier Bernier</b>, Vertus (Cote des Blancs)</div>
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<i>"My philosophy is that Champagne should deliver a combination of elegance, energy, complexity - it's very complex at times. Energy, complexity, tension, minerality, elegance. That is what I want to create, because I think the trust of our terroir in Champagne is a very simple philosophy. I just want to be loyal to my land." </i>- <b>Bruno Paillard</b>, <b>Champagne Bruno Paillard</b>, Reims</div>
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<i>The Essence of Champagne </i>is available at amazon (click <a href="https://www.amazon.com/Essence-Champagne-Glass-Table/dp/1541378601/ref=sr_1_1?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1487186031&sr=1-1&keywords=the+essence+of+champagne">here</a>)</div>
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<br />tom hylandhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15059595835440742055noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4840230708436051577.post-87706958557652619712017-01-30T14:47:00.001-06:002017-01-30T14:47:17.371-06:00Louis Jadot 2015 Burgundies<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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Recently in Chicago, I attended a sit-down lecture and tasting presented by Frédéric Barnier, technical director and winemaker for Maison Louis Jadot, one of Burgundy's most esteemed houses. The topic was the newly released wines from the 2015 vintage.<br />
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2015 has received a lot of hype, as a great vintage; we surely hear the word great being used too often in the wine world (and elsewhere), yet we don't often hear that for Burgundy, as it is a bit of a razor's edge climate, as every year growers and producers hope for cooperation from Mother Nature. Is 2015 truly a great vintage for Burgundy?<br />
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Barnier, who succeeded long-time Jadot winemaker Jacques Lardiere a few years ago, addressed the topic of "greatness" as applied to the 2015 vintage in Burgundy. He commented that 2015 was "less difficult than past vintages," but also noted a lack of rainfall, which made for concentrated wines, but of course, a very small crop. The yields were 85%-90% normal for the whites, but only 30%-35% for the reds.<br />
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While it was hot and dry in June and July, August saw normal temperatures, so Barnier was quick to point out that 2015 would not be like 2003 in Burgundy. That year, the wines lacked proper acidity, which is thankfully not a problem with the 2015s.<br />
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There were 18 wines presented at this seminar - I will give tasting notes for most of them.<br />
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<u><b>WHITES</b></u></div>
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<b>Chablis Premier Cru "Fourchame" </b>- Brilliant light yellow color; classic wet stone aromas with additional notes of golden apple. Medium-full with very good to excellent concentration. Excellent persistence, very good acidity and complexity, with beautiful varietal character. Beautiful representation of terroir and ideal varietal purity. This wine is fermented in steel tanks and wooden barrels and is matured in 30% new oak; which seems perfect for this wine. 7-10 years of life ahead of this wine. <b>Outstanding</b> (****1/2)<br />
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<b>Meursault Premier Cru "Genevrieres" </b>- Distinctive aromas of anise and golden apples. Medium-full; very good ripeness and acidity. Nicely balanced with excellent varietal character. A nicely refined example of a cru Meursault, with impressive persistence. 7-10 years. <b>Excellent</b> (****)<br />
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<b>Puligny-Montrachet Premier Cru "La Garenne" </b>- Straw/light yellow; aromas of ripe Bosc pear and citrus; slightly closed nose. Medium-full, good acidity, excellent persistence and complexity; quite stylish. This vineyard is one of the highest in the appellation; due to the small crop in 2015, wine from two domaines were blended together for this cuvée. Peak in 10-12 years, perhaps longer. <b>Excellent</b> (****)<br />
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<b>Batard-Montrachet</b> - Light yellow; nutty aromas (roast almonds), lemon zest and ripe apple notes. Full-bodied with excellent concentration. Rich mid-palate, outstanding persistence, very good acidity. Powerful, yet with a fine sense of grace. Best in 12-20 years. Barnier noted that the Batard-Montrachet vineyard is situated in both the commune of Puligny-Montrachet as well as Chassagne-Montrachet; this wine is from rows of the vineyard located entirely in Puligny. Fermented in oak and then matured in barrels for 18 months. <b>Superior </b>(<span style="color: red;">*****</span>)<br />
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<b><u>REDS</u></b></div>
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<b>Santenay, Clos de Malte (Monopole)</b> - Bright young garnet; very appealing aromas of pink carnation and maraschino cherry. Medium-bodied, tart acidity, very good depth of fruit and lovely balance. Nice finesse- a charming wine in which the varietal fruit is the focus. Best in 5-7 years. <b>Very Good to Excellent </b>(***1/2)</div>
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<b>Beaune Premier Cru "Boucherottes" </b>- Deep garnet (crimson); aromas of black cherry cough syrup, tar, black mint and iris. Rich mid-palate, medium-weight tannins, good acidity, earthy finish (Barnier labeled this as "slightly rustic"), very good persistence. Best in 10-12 years. This cru is very close to the border with Pommard, and is situated between "Clos de Mouches" and "Les Epenottes" on the lower portion of the southern slope of Beaune. Fermented in tanks, then matured in barrels for 12-15 months. <b>Excellent </b>(****)</div>
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<b>Corton Pougets Grand Cru </b>- Very deep garnet; rich aromas of red cherry, a subtle note of coffee, tar and dried red flowers. Medium-full with very good to excellent concentration. Ideal ripeness, excellent persistence, good acidity. Superb expression of terroir; outstanding varietal purity. Powerful wine, but balanced, and displaying great style! Best in 15-20 years, but extremely appealing now. Jadot is one of only two producers to make a Corton Pougets; the other being Domaine Rapet. The cru is directly adjacent to the famed Corton-Charlemagne plot. The wine was fermented for 3-4 weeks in vats and then aged 18-20 months in oak barrels. <b>Outstanding </b>(****1/2, perhaps <b>Superior </b><span style="color: red; font-weight: bold;">***** </span>in another 5 to 7 years?)</div>
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<b>Nuits-Saint-Georges Premier Cru "Les Boudots" </b>- Enticing aromas of red cherry, strawberry and red poppies. Medium-full with very good to excellent concentration. Delicious wine! Quite ripe, but not forward or jammy; rich tannins, excellent persistence, subtle wood notes. Peak in 12-15 years. This vineyard borders the Premier Cru vineyards of Vosne-Romanée, at the northern limits of Nuits-Saint-Georges. This wine was fermented in vats for 3-4 weeks and then aged for 15 months in oak barrels. <b>Outstanding </b>(****1/2)</div>
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<b>Gevrey-Chambertin Premier Cru "Clos-Saint-Jacques"</b>- Young, deep garnet; aromas of ripe strawberry, red roses, red poppies and red cherries. Medium-full with excellent concentration. Rich mid-palate. Big tannins, but balanced; firm structure, excellent persistence. Peak in 12-20 years. Produced from 90 year-old vines. <b>Barnier commented that Clos-Saint-Jacques is "a Premier Cru more like a Grand Cru." </b>The wine was fermented in vats for 3-4 weeks and then matured in oak barrels for 18-20 months. <b>Outstanding </b>(****1/2), perhaps <b>Superior </b><span style="color: red; font-weight: bold;">*****</span> in another 7-10 years).</div>
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<b>Chapelle-Chambertin Grand Cru </b>- Lovely young garnet; ripe red cherry, cough syrup and carnation aromas. Full-bodied with excellent concentration. Rich, generous mid-palate. Rich finish with ample fruit; outstanding persistence. Beautiful structure, quite stylish! Notes of black spice and red flowers in the powerful finish, firm tannins. Superb expression of terroir and varietal purity. Beauitful wine! Peak in 15-25 years, perhaps longer. Chapelle-Chambertin is one of nine Grand Cru plots in the Gevrey-Chambertin commune; it is situated immediately underneath Clos de Beze, with Griotte to the south. Jadot owns 0.96 acres of this cru. Fermented in vats for 3-4 weeks and matured for 18-20 months in oak barrels. <b>Superior </b>(<span style="color: red; font-weight: bold;">*****</span>)</div>
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<b>Clos Vougeot Grand Cru </b>- Young, deep garnet; aromas of black cherry, tar and cough syrup. Medium-full with excellent concentration. Rich mid-palate, quite round and supple. Firm tannins, slightly meaty finish, excellent persistence. Give time to round out. Peak in 15-20 years. Jadot is second largest owner of the Clos Vougeot vineyard, with a little more than five acres. The wine was fermented for 3-4 weeks in tanks, and then matured in barrels for 18 months. <b>Outstanding </b>(****1/2)</div>
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The tasting concluded with two Beaujolais from Jadot; normally this would be unthinkable, but not for the 2015 Beaujolais, which are anything but simple, quaffable wines. The lack of water was especially critical in Beaujolais, resulting in powerful wines, somewhat atypical for this district. Both wines were quite rich, and your opinion of these wines would depend on how "big" you want a Beaujolais to be.</div>
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<b>Chateau de Jacques Morgon "Cote de Py" </b>- Deep purple, almost black color, which is quite typical of the 2015 Beaujolais. Aromas of black plum, violets and blackberry jam. Big, big tannins! Notable persistence. Far removed from most individuals's idea of Beaujolais; best in 5-7 years. <b>Very Good </b>(***)</div>
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<b>Chateaus de Jacques Moulin-a-Vent "Clos de Rochegres" </b>- Inky purple, as dark a color as I have ever seen on a Beaujolais. Blackberry, iris and violet aromas. Full-bodied, excellent persistence. Very ripe, almost lush approach. Quite powerful, although you couldn't drink much more than a glass for some time, as this is all guts and body with little charm. Peak in 7-12 years. This was aged for a short time in 100% new oak. A controversial style of Beaujolais, to say the least. <b>Excellent </b>(****)</div>
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<br />tom hylandhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15059595835440742055noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4840230708436051577.post-28322308156009037322017-01-15T10:00:00.002-06:002017-01-15T10:00:46.695-06:00The Essence of Champagne - available at amazon<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<br />
My new book <i>The Essence of Champagne </i>is now available at amazon.com (click <a href="https://www.amazon.com/Essence-Champagne-Glass-Table/dp/1541378601/ref=sr_1_2?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1484410289&sr=1-2&keywords=the+essence+of+champagne">here</a>)<br />
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In the book, I feature 50 Champagne producers, ranging from large houses to small growers. There no points for any of the estates or their cuvées, but rather I use a star system to rate the producers, from 2 (good) to 5 (superior). For each chapter, I feature one or two wines from a particular producers and include my tasting notes along with a specific food recommendation for that cuvée.<br />
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Enjoy!tom hylandhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15059595835440742055noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4840230708436051577.post-60180428391584387272016-12-31T10:06:00.001-06:002016-12-31T10:44:35.866-06:00The Essence of Champagne -My New Book<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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Just in time to ring old the old year and celebrate the new year, my new book <i>The Essence of Champagne</i> has been published. It is initially available on the Kindle site of amazon.com (click<a href="https://www.amazon.com/Essence-Champagne-Glass-Table-ebook/dp/B01MU5NVE7/ref=sr_1_1?s=digital-text&ie=UTF8&qid=1483196110&sr=1-1&keywords=the+essence+of+champagne"> here</a>). The physical copy will be available very soon (I will follow up with details when it is published).<br />
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I realize there are several books about Champagne on the market, so why did I write this and why should you purchase it? Well to answer that, let me tell you what this book is NOT. It is not a book with tasting notes on 500 or 1000 (or more Champagnes). There are a few books that offer these features and I find them fascinating; if you are looking for that, by all means, go for it.<br />
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But I wasn't interested in offering hundreds of tasting notes; that wouldn't be the book that best represents my interest in Champagne. <b>I wrote this book as a journalist, and not as a critic.</b> There are no point ratings in this book; I'll save my argument against points for another day. What I've done in this book is to feature 50 Champagnes producers, ranging from some of the most famous houses (Veuve Clicquot, Pol Roger, Taittinger, Louis Roederer, et al) to some of the smallest growers (David Léclapart, Chartogne-Taillet, Cedric Bouchard, et al). I profile these producers and features quotes from the chef-de-caves or proprietor about their methods and reasoning, as well as their philosophy.<br />
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For each producer, I feature one or two wines - these do have personal tasting notes, often with detailed technical information - and follow those notes with a recommended food pairing. Some of these are personal recommendations, while some are from the proprietor or winemaker himself or herself. For example, with his prestige Cuvée Josephine, proprietor Jean-Claude Fourmon of Champagne Joseph Perrier recommends a hard goat cheese or Comté chese from the Jura. He told me that "You lose finesse with intense foods with this cuvée."<br />
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I do rank the producers on a personal level with star ratings, from 2 (Good) all the way up to 5 (Superior). A few 5-star producers include such famous labels as Dom Perignon and Pol Roger to some smaller growers, such as Larmandier-Bernier (arguably the best price/quality relationship in Champagne) and Cedric Bouchard (his wines are labeled as Roses de Jeanne).<br />
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Along the way, I learned many things about Champagne that I wasn't that aware of. For example, I learned that while aging in wood was common in the 19th century, most producers used only steel tanks for much of the 20th century; it wasn't until the last 20-30 years that more and more producers have once again started to use wooden barrels for vinification. One producer told me that this has come about as a result of making more cuvées more adaptable for many types of food.<br />
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If you love Champagne, I think you'll greatly enjoy this book, especially as this is a fresh look at this great wine and its finest producers.</div>
tom hylandhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15059595835440742055noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4840230708436051577.post-37892180929417570182016-10-06T21:36:00.004-05:002016-10-06T21:36:58.986-05:00Quincy and Friends<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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Photo ©Tom Hyland</div>
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France's Loire Valley is one of the country's greatest, but least publicized wine regions. Much of that has to do with the fact that it's primarily a white wine territory, while the more famous Bordeaux, Burgundy and Rhone regions get the attention for their red wines. There are some delightful reds in the Loire, but it's the whites from here that are the superstars, namely Sancerre and Pouilly-Fumé, both produced exclusively from Sauvignon Blanc.</div>
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There are other whites here that deserve your attention, one of them being Quincy. First thing you need to know it that it's not pronounced <i><b>kwin</b>-see</i>, but rather <i>kahn-</i><b style="font-style: italic;">see</b>. Secondly, it's also 100% Sauvignon Blanc, just as with the better known Sancerre and Pouilly-Fumé. The Quincy zone is located in southern Loire, a bit southwest of Sancerre. While a typical Quincy does not have the weight of a Sancerre or Pouilly-Fumé, it does have that lovely Sauvignon Blanc character - a touch of melon along with a bit of grassiness. They make for lovely wines with shellfish, chicken with rosemary or goat cheese, and best of all, they're priced less than a Sancerre or Pouilly-Fumé.</div>
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Here are notes on a few examples of Quincy I tasted recently:</div>
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<b>Domaine la Commanderie 2014 - </b>Light yellow with a touch of <i>petillance</i>; aromas of Bosc pear, snap pea and melon. Medium-bodied with tasty, succulent fruit, good persistence and very good acidity (a trademark of the challenging 2014 vintage). Enjoy over the next 2-3 years. <b>Very Good to Excellent</b></div>
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<b>Guillaume Sorbe "Les Poete" 2014 </b> - Aromas of freshly cut hay, Bosc pear and a hint of yellow pepper. Medium-bodied, very good persistence and acidity; well-balanced with impressive varietal purity. Enjoy over the next 2-3 years. <b>Very Good to Excellent</b></div>
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<b>Domaine Adele Rouze 2014 </b>-Light yellow with expressive aromas of dried pear, hay and a note of hazelnut. Medium-full with excellent depth of fruit, very good acidity and impressive persistence. Excellent harmony and outstanding varietal character. Very good ripeness, but the fruit is downplayed, as there is a lovely earthiness to this wine (a note of green olive in the finish). Beautifully made and a wonderful sense of place! This would be heavenly with a trout or river fish with a sauce with olives or mushrooms. Drink now and over the next three years - perhaps longer. At an average retail price of $18 in the US, this is an <b>excellent value</b>. <span style="color: red;"><b>Outstanding!</b></span></div>
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Briefly, two other lovely Loire Valley whites are Muscadet and Vouvray. The best examples of the former are known as Muscadet Sevre et Maine Sur Lie (sur lie, being aged on its own lees in the cellar); the wine is made from the Melon de Bourgogne grape, sometimes referred to as Muscadet.</div>
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Vouvray, from central Loire, is made from the Chenin Blanc grape and can be made in numerous styles from dry to slightly sweet to dessert sweet; some examples age for a decade or more.</div>
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Tasting notes:</div>
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<b>Le Fresnay Muscadet de Sevre et Maine Sur Lie 2015 </b>- Aromas of dried yellow flowers, quince and lilacs, along with a hint of pastry cream. Dry with good acidity, this is elegant and easy-drinking now, but will reveal greater complexity in another year or two, peaking in three or four years. <b>Very Good to Excellent</b></div>
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<b>Vigneau-Chevrau Vouvray "Cuvée Silex" 2014 </b>- Attractive aromas of Bosc pear, jasmine and dried yellow flowers. Medium-bodied with excellent depth of fruit, good acidity and notable persistence. Excellent varietal purity and harmony. Very appealing, with a light juiciness and delicate white spice (ginger) in the finish. Enjoy now and over the next 3-5 years. <b>Excellent</b></div>
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tom hylandhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15059595835440742055noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4840230708436051577.post-80895600042893018822016-06-27T11:12:00.001-05:002016-06-27T11:49:09.045-05:00Affordable White Burgundies - They do Exist!<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<i>Affordable White Burgundies .... Including a Sauvignon Blanc, yes, a Sauvignon Blanc!</i></div>
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There are a few things certain in life: taxes, Hollywood will soon release <i>another </i>comic book movie, and white Burgundies are expensive. Actually while this last claim is generally true, there are some very impressive white wines from Burgundy that won't result in you taking out a loan. Here are a few of the better examples I've tasted recently.</div>
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<b>Goisot Saint-Bris "Exogyra Virgula" 2014</b></div>
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Everyone knows that Chardonnay is the white Burgundy, right? Well, there are a few exceptions and here is one that few people know, as it's made from Sauvignon. Saint-Bris is named for the small village of Saint-Bris-les-Vineaux in northern Burgundy, in the Yonne department south of Chablis. Here both Sauvignon Blanc as well as Sauvignon Gris are used to produce a medium-bodied, dry white; this particular example has textbook Sauvignon perfumes, with notes of hay and freshly cut grass, along with a subtle notes of melon. It's very well made and is quite refreshing and delicious and would be ideal paired with simple seafood.</div>
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<b>Giraudon Bourgogne Aligoté 2014</b></div>
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Another white variety that performs well in Burgundy is Aligoté. While this is actually among the top 25 most widely planted varieties in the world (it's also grown in such countries as Romania, Bulgaria and Ukraine), it is not that well known by most consumers. In Burgundy, it can be used in a sparkling wine known as Cremant de Bourgogne, but in this instance, it's the basis for a dry, very flavorful white wine with appealing apple flavors and lively, lip-smacking acidity. Giraudon, located in the town of Chitry in the Auxerre department near Chablis, specializes in Aligoté and makes a typical delicious example that would be perfect with shellfish. What's best about this wine - and the Saint-Bris mentioned above - is the reasonable price, less than $20 a bottle on US retail shelves.</div>
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<b>Vincent Bourgogne Blanc 2014</b></div>
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Now on to Chardonnay! Bourgogne Blanc is almost always an excellent value, as some of the most renowned producers of Burgundy produce a version of Bourgogne Blanc that is nowhere as expensive as their most famous offerings; even better is the fact that these offerings of Bourgogne Blanc are very impressive wines in their own right. J.J. Vincent is an excellent producer, best known for Pouilly-Fuisse; his versions are regularly excellent, but given the reputation of that wine, you have to pay a bit of a premium for his examples. Not so with his Bourgogne Blanc - this 2014 has aromas of yellow flowers, mustard seed and a note of vanilla; there is good richness on the palate, good acidity and persistence, and very nice Chardonnay character. Enjoy this over the next 2-3 years. </div>
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<b>Meurgey-Croses Viré Clessé "Vielles Vignes" 2014</b></div>
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If you must have white Burgundies from such AOC as Corton Charlemagne or Puligny Montrachet, you'll probably pay dearly for them. Head to the Maconnais area of southern Burgundy and you'll find any number of well made white Burgundies that are fairly priced. Examples include Macon, Macon Lugny and Saint-Veran. One wine from this area that should be better known is Viré Clessé, named for two towns in the appellation. The 2014 from Muergey-Croses is one of the finest white Burgundies in its price range I've tasted in years! Offering expressive aromas of fresh lemon, lilacs and a hint of grapefruit, this is medium-bodied with very good depth of fruit, and has excellent freshness and ripeness with very good acidity. </div>
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This is a beautifully balanced wine with impressive varietal character and excellent complexity. What's most impressive about this wine is that this is a "<i>vielles vignes" </i>selection, meaning one from old vines; in this case, 65 years old. These older vines produce extremely flavorful fruit; this producer vinified most of this wine in steel, with a small percentage in wood, resulting in a multi-layered wine. For a retail price of around $30, this is an excellent value! Pair this with poultry, most seafood or goat cheese and enjoy this over the next 2-3 years, perhaps longer.</div>
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tom hylandhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15059595835440742055noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4840230708436051577.post-38678059955736429152016-06-18T10:14:00.001-05:002016-06-19T13:14:32.049-05:00Serious Rosé<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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I've always enjoyed a well made Rosé and I've loved a few of them. So it's been especially gratifying to see how many sommeliers and wine buyers across the country also favor these wines. Recently, I was at Maialino in the Gramercy Park Hotel in New York City, where wine director Jeff Kellogg had put together a marvelous selection of rosés, both still and sparkling. I sampled a glass of Ettore Germano "Rosanna", a sparkling Nebbiolo from Piemonte that is one of the best of its type (I have written about this wine in my upcoming book on Piemonte); I went back the next evening and with a few friends, thoroughly enjoyed the Chartogne-Taillet non-vintage Rosé from Champagne - just sublime!</div>
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So yes, rosés have arrived and have become sought after wines in many instances; the best are much more than simple summer sippers. Here is a list of some of the finest I've enjoyed over the past few months:</div>
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<b>SPARKLING</b></div>
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<b>Ferrari non-vintage (Trento DOC) </b>- There are some excellent <i>metodo classico</i> sparkling wines made in Trentino in northeastern Italy; the best examples from this cool climate area are labeled as Trento DOC. The firm of Ferrari, established in 1902 by Giulio Ferrari, and managed by the Lunelli family since the 1950s, is the best known Trento DOC producer; it is also arguably the finest. Their classic rose is a blend of 60% Pinot Nero and 40% Chardonnay; it is aged slightly longer than 24 months on the lees. Medium-bodied with a rich mid-palate, very good acidity and impressive persistence, this is very flavorful, and quite elegant, and will drink well for the next 3-5 years.</div>
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Another impressive Trento DOC rosé is from the firm of <b>Revi</b>; this 100% Pinot Nero is a new cuvée from this producer; it is a vintage-dated offering (<i>millesimato) </i>from 2009. This offers bright strawberry and plum aromas and flavors, along with good acidity and is round and quite elegant. It is a touch lighter in body than the Ferrari, but no less flavorful; this is delicious now and will drink well for another 3-5 years. </div>
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Moving to Champagne, I've tasted so many great examples over the past few years. Two recent examples that impressed me are the previously mentioned <b>Chartogne-Taillet</b> and the <b>Bereche "Campana Remensis"</b>, both non-vintage and made according to the more common <i>assemblage</i> method for rosé Champagne, where a small amount of still red wine is added into the blend. The Chartogne-Taillet is effusively fruity, with tantalizing flavors of strawberry and raspberry with very good acidity and an ultra-clean, very long finish. The Bereche offering is not as bright as the Chartogne-Taillet, but the complexity and finesse of this wine, along with its distinct earthiness, combine to make it a winner. Enjoy over the next 3-5 years.</div>
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One other rosé Champagne of note that caught my attention lately is from <b>Christophe Mignon</b>, whose firm is located in Festigny in the Vallée de la Marne, west of Epernay. Mignon specializes in Pinot Meunier and it's neat to see that he actually produces two separate rosés from this variety. The one I tasted was produced according to the <i>assemblage </i>method; Mignon also makes a <i>saignée </i>rosé in which the color of the wine is derived from the skins of the Pinot Meunier grapes. Medium-bodied with aromas of ripe strawberry and orange poppies, this is a sumptuous rosé Champagne!</div>
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You used to only hear about rosés from France, especially those from Provence or from Tavel in the Rhone Valley. But now, given the popularity of rosé, there are notable examples produced around the world. Here are a few examples:</div>
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<b>Hacienda di Arinzano Rosé 2015 </b>- From northern Spain, this is 100% Tempranillo, the principal variety of Rioja. Displaying a beautiful deep cherry color, with watermelon and pear aromas, this is clean, elegant, tasty and ideal for chicken or simple summer foods.</div>
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<b>Chateau Les Crostes Rosé 2015 </b>- Here is a textbook rosé from Provence, which to me is like saying that this is a classic rosé with its blush color, delicate nature and its pleasingly dry finish. What a lovely quaffer to enjoy during the hot weather or with lighter pastas or salads!</div>
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<b>Masi "Rosa di Masi" 2015</b> - From one of Italy's most famous producers, this is 100% Refosco, which gives this rosé a distinctive character. With beautiful pink cherry fruit and a dry finish, this is medium-bodied and quite tasty. Lovely on its own or with lighter red meats.</div>
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(Photo ©Tom Hyland)</div>
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<b>Domaine Thomas & Fils Sancerre Rosé "Terres Blanches" 2015 </b>- Sancerre, from eastern Loire, is one of the world's most famous white wines. Few realize that many producers also release a Sancerre Rosé, made entirely from Pinot Noir. Displaying a pretty blush strawberry color and pear, plum and dried cherry aromas, this has excellent ripeness, very good acidity and impressive persistence. Nicely balanced, this is a beautifully made rosé to enjoy over the next year or two. This would be ideal paired with sautéed shrimp.</div>
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<b>Domaine Lafond Tavel 2015 </b>- Here is a first-rate example of one of the world's most famous and classic rosés. A blend of 60% Grenache, 20% Cinsault and 20% Syrah, this has a beautiful deep pink color and intense aromas of bing cherry and wild strawberry. Medium-full with rich complexity and a touch of meatiness (this will stand up to roast meats), this is an outstanding rosé to be enjoyed over the next 2-3 years. </div>
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<b>Schloss Gobelsburg "Cistercien" Rosé 2015 </b>- From one of Austria's finest producers, this is made with a predominance of Zweigelt with a smaller percentage of Saint Laurent. Offering dried strawberry and dried orange peel perfumes and flavors, this has a rich mid-palate, backed by a delicate finish. Quite dry, with very good acidity, this is something special! Enjoy over the next 2-3 years - perhaps longer.</div>
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<br />tom hylandhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15059595835440742055noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4840230708436051577.post-16253816652566272932016-01-29T13:14:00.001-06:002016-01-29T13:14:22.621-06:00Tre Bicchieri Returns<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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The <i>Tre Bicchieri</i> tastings are returning to the United States! Organized by <i>Gambero Rosso</i>, the bible of Italian wines, these special tasting bring together dozens of producers from all over Italy, as they pour their top-rated <i>Tre Bicchieri</i> wine for the media and press.<br />
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The 2016 <i>"Vini d'Italia" </i>is the 29th edition of this guide, published by <i>Gambero Rosso</i>. For this year's guide, some 22,000 wines from a total of 2400 producers, there were 421 wines that were awarded a <i>Tre Bicchieri </i>rating. This rating is the highest given by the publication and it goes to the most outstanding wines from all over Italy. What's great about this award is that is it not only reserved for the most celebrated red wines, such as Barolo, Brunello di Montalcino and Amarone, but also less famous reds such as Dolcetto, Montepulciano d'Abruzzo and Rosso Piceno, along with may stellar whites (Verdicchio, Vermentino, Timorasso, et al) and of course, several prominent sparkling wines from Franciacorta and Trentino, along with a few examples of Prosecco.<br />
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There will be three tastings in the US, starting on February 4 in Chicago at the Bridgeport Art Center, 1200 W. 35th Street. Register <a href="https://www.eventbrite.com/e/tre-bicchieri-2016-chicago-press-tasting-tickets-20480185787">here</a> for this event (press) and <a href="https://www.eventbrite.com/e/tre-bicchieri-2016-chicago-trade-tasting-tickets-20262620042">here</a> for trade.<br />
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<a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B6znn86rF0mCOXpZb1B4azJfb2s/view">Here</a> is a link to a list of the participating producers who will be pouring their wines in Chicago.<br />
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The tasting in New York City will be held on February 9 at the Metropolitan Pavilion, 125 W. 18th Street. Register here for this event (<a href="https://www.eventbrite.com/e/tre-bicchieri-2016-new-york-press-tasting-tickets-20480225907">press</a>) and <a href="https://www.eventbrite.com/e/tre-bicchieri-2016-new-york-trade-tasting-tickets-20262062374">here</a> for trade.<br />
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<a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B6znn86rF0mCcHFxMkFpQ01Ocms/view">Here</a> is a link to a list of participating producers who will be pouring their wines in New York City.<br />
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The tasting in San Francisco will be held on February 11 at Fort Mason Center, 2 Marina Boulevard. Register here for this event (<a href="https://www.eventbrite.com/e/tre-bicchieri-2016-san-francisco-press-tasting-tickets-20490240862">press</a>) and <a href="https://www.eventbrite.com/e/tre-bicchieri-2016-san-francisco-trade-tasting-tickets-20278699135">here</a> for trade.<br />
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<a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B6znn86rF0mCMjFXTHJYUUxvUzQ/view">Here</a> is a link to a list of participating producers who will be pouring their wines in San Francisco.<br />
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I'll be attending both the Chicago and New York City tastings - hope to see you there!tom hylandhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15059595835440742055noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4840230708436051577.post-18813736003692555562015-11-12T14:43:00.001-06:002015-11-12T14:43:07.063-06:00Hugel - The Wines of Alsace (Part Two)<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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There are so many days to celebrate, so why not a day for a winery? I never knew this until a few weeks ago, but November 14 is Famile Hugel day - Hugel, being the famed Alsatian producer, of course. </div>
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Well, I'm game, so I tasted a few of their classic wines to get me in the mood. A few words about Hugel first; the firm was established in 1639 (!) and is today located in the charming village of Riquewihr in the Haut-Rhin section of Alsace (this is the southern half of Alsace and is considered the best wine area in the region). The winery is still family owned - how nice in this era of corporate buyouts and mergers - and is being managed by the 12th generation of the Hugel family.</div>
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There are several lines of wines produced by Hugel. Here are notes on three wines from the classic range:</div>
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<b>2014 "Gentil"</b></div>
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"Gentil" is the name of a blended wine from this house; the wine is primarily Gewurztraminer, backed by smaller amounts of Pinot Gris, Riesling, Muscat and Sylvaner. There are pleasing aromas of Anjou pear along with hints of jasmine and peony. Medium-bodied, this is round with appealing fruitiness, good acidity and has a dry finish with a slightly bitter edge. I'd pair this with crayfish or quiche. The $15 price tag represents a good value.</div>
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<b>2013 Riesling</b></div>
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Riesling is considered the jewel of Alsatian wine; for that reason alone, most examples will cost you at least $25, with most priced much higher. Here's one for $13, which is a rarity. It offers subtle notes of pear, elderflowers and a hint of petrol (a classic descriptor for Riesling). It's medium bodied and perhaps a bit shy on the finish, but for a dry Riesling at this price, one that will be even better in another year or two, it's a winner!</div>
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<b>2012 Gewurztraminer</b></div>
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Here is the best wine of the four. Offering beautiful varietal aromas of lychee, yellow roses and grapefruit. Medium-full with very good weight on the palate. <b>Very good acidity, impressive persistence, good complexity and excellent varietal character. </b>Enjoy over the next 2-3 years, perhaps longer. Excellent!</div>
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If you think about it, November 14, being Famille Hugel day, is just in time for Thanksgiving. All of these wines would work well with your holiday meal, especially the Gewurztraminer with turkey. But if you prefer a more muted aromatic wine, opt for the Riesling or "Gentil" - they work beautifully with turkey, chicken, pork or many other dishes. Happy Holidays!</div>
tom hylandhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15059595835440742055noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4840230708436051577.post-48320193364033644742015-11-10T15:32:00.001-06:002015-11-10T15:32:30.521-06:00Pierre Sparr - The Wines of Alsace (Part One)<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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I love the white wines of Alsace; I honestly believe that this may be the greatest wine region in the world. I say that, partly as I adore Gewurztraminer, one of the region's best wines, but I'm also such a big advocate, thanks to the overall quality of the other famous whites from here, especially Pinot Gris and Riesling. I'm referring to the dry versions of these wines, and then there are the amazing <i>vendange tardives</i>, late harvest wines that offer outstanding complexity and can age for decades.<br />
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I've tasted a lot of Alsatian wines from small and mid-sized family estates, but until recently, none from a cooperative. This type of producer is one that you see in many zones in France, Italy and other European countries; the fruit is sourced from growers that are also members of the cooperative. Generally the quality is quite good - sometimes very good - with a few wines being of excellent or outstanding quality.<br />
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Situated in the town of Beblenheim, the Pierre Sparr winery was founded back in 1680; nine successive generations have continued making wine. Pierre Sparr took over in the early 1900s and rebuilt the estate after damage during World War II. Today the winery owns 37 acres in the Haut-Rhin and has contracts with growers in another 370 acres in the region.<br />
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<b>Vineyards of Pierre Sparr</b></div>
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Tasting through the wines, the Selection line offers clean, well made wines at a fair price ($14-$20 US retail). While these wines are pleasant and offer good varietal character, it is the Pinot Gris (2013 vintage) that is the standout. Medium-bodied with good acidity and complexity, this has very good richness on the palate as well as distinctive floral perfumes to accompany the ripe apple notes; enjoy this now and over the next 2-3 years.</div>
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Of course, you judge an Alsatian producer by the Grand Cru wines and it's no different with Pierre Sparr. I tasted three- here are my thoughts on the wines:</div>
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<b>2011 Gewurztraminer Grand Cru Mambourg</b></div>
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Beautiful varietal aromas of lychee, yellow rose and grapefruit. Medium-full with very good concentration. Nice wine, excellent ripeness, nicely balanced, easy-drinking. While I like the wine, I would have preferred a drier finish - this has a light sweetness, which is pleasant and may attract some drinkers, but I am a fan of the classic dry style of Alsatian Gewurztraminer. Enjoy over the next 2-3 years -perhaps longer.</div>
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<b>2011 Riesling Grand Cru Schonenbourg</b></div>
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Lovely aromas of apricot and yellow peach with hints of petrol. Medium-bodied with good concentration; excellent balance, good acidity, and very good varietal character. This is not the most complex or lush style of Alsatian Riesling, but it is well mad and very satisfying. Enjoy over the next 3-5 years.</div>
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<b>2011 Pinot Gris Grand Cru Mambourg</b></div>
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Deep yellow; aromas of nutmeg, Anjou pear, pine and brioche - just lovely! Medium-full with very good concentration. Excellent varietal character, good acidity and persistence with impressive harmony. Excellent- enjoy over the next 3-5 years. (The $45-$50 US retail price tag is very reasonable for this wine type.)</div>
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The wines of Pierre Sparr are imported in the USA by Wilson Daniels.</div>
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tom hylandhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15059595835440742055noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4840230708436051577.post-22780241403242440362015-10-17T09:22:00.001-05:002015-10-17T09:22:50.563-05:00Champagne Campus - A Great Way to Learn about Champagne Online<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEimGQcRJFs3OyU20Z8kxQgm6xw_YAt-Ca7EvJxVWyRlyPCu_MwVXhrzW2bx2-Ld31T_cua7K6vEeePWoXR79lxDjU5MNwmYc_3nLDu8_JxM6k5OHSGN7KO2NkQKwdPFWjluahFIaXAct46e/s1600/Screen+Shot+2015-10-17+at+8.36.30+AM.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="241" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEimGQcRJFs3OyU20Z8kxQgm6xw_YAt-Ca7EvJxVWyRlyPCu_MwVXhrzW2bx2-Ld31T_cua7K6vEeePWoXR79lxDjU5MNwmYc_3nLDu8_JxM6k5OHSGN7KO2NkQKwdPFWjluahFIaXAct46e/s320/Screen+Shot+2015-10-17+at+8.36.30+AM.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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When I think about education and Champagne, I'm reminded of the famous line about the weather - "Everybody complains about it, but nobody does anything about it." Regarding Champagne education, change that saying to "Everybody knows what Champagne is, but almost no one knows much about it."<br />
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It's true, to a large degree. Champagne has become a generic word for sparkling wine. With all due respect to Franciacorta, Prosecco, Cava and other classic method sparkling wines, they're not Champagne. Champagne is a specific product from the Champagne region in France and to put it simply, you cannot replicate that anywhere else in the world.<br />
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So Champagne is unique, but there is a lot more to Champagne than just a sparkling wine from France. It's about a specific process with specific varieties from vineyards spread out over several districts. It's about a wide array of styles, from non-vintage Brut, the most widely available Champagne to particular cuvées, such as Blanc de Blancs to Rosé to Blanc de Noirs and several others.<br />
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In my opinion, few people in America - and many other countries - have a good grasp on the complexities of the subject of Champagne. Ironically, some of these same individuals know a great deal about the various differences in classified Bordeaux and why the wines of Pomerol taste different than those from Pauillac or why a Burgundy from the Cote de Beaune varies so greatly in style than that of a wine from the Cote de Nuits. There are countless other stylistic differences from great wines around the world, but for too many consumers, Champagne is Champagne.<br />
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So education is desperately needed. I conduct small Champagne classes/dinners from time to time in Chicago, tasting out 5 or 6 Champagnes, representing cuvées ranging from Blanc de Blancs to Vintage Brut to Rosé and match these wines up with food. But I can only reach a small group of individuals.<br />
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There are detailed books on Champagne, several of them excellent (especially from Tom Stevenson and Essi Avellan, Tyson Stezer and Gerhard Eichelmann). I highly recommend their books, as they are excellent studies of the leading Champagne houses as well as examinations of how Champagne is made.<br />
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But given today's need for quick information, books suffer, unfortunately, compared to the internet. You can argue all you want about whether books or the internet are better sources for information, but you have to accept that the internet has changed the way we look at things, and it's here to stay.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg2xLniPe-otNxbEmBVJnvavvJU7Uxk9QD42PCT4AIdUl2v-3xxxQp_xW3Cg__rQxydtBhG1-Zh-wsioMcK5cn_vhTFrOLDsva3h1o6iGr4N9BHIv8j1QRbyHtaJ3B2gEGS3PYO4BN8I8RJ/s1600/Screen+Shot+2015-10-17+at+9.02.13+AM.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="239" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg2xLniPe-otNxbEmBVJnvavvJU7Uxk9QD42PCT4AIdUl2v-3xxxQp_xW3Cg__rQxydtBhG1-Zh-wsioMcK5cn_vhTFrOLDsva3h1o6iGr4N9BHIv8j1QRbyHtaJ3B2gEGS3PYO4BN8I8RJ/s320/Screen+Shot+2015-10-17+at+9.02.13+AM.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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That's why it's such great news that the Comité Champagne - the CIVC, headquartered in Epernay in Champagne - has put together the Champagne Campus on their website (<a href="http://champagnecampus.com/">champagnecampus.com</a>). This is an excellent way to learn about Champagne, as this online course is loaded with facts about numerous topics, from vineyard classification to grape varieties to production information. There are detailed maps as well as beautiful photos and it's a pleasure to read and look at.</div>
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What I love about the Champagne Campus is the fact that you learn about Champagne at your own level. When you first go to the site, you are asked four introductory questions to test your knowledge. Depending on how many of these you answer correctly, you are then told that you should study one particular level of the course, ranging from Novice to Lovers to Enthusiasts. Neat idea!</div>
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There is so much in this course, not only maps and basic facts, but also a great deal about history, climate, soils and even vine training (yes, this is a serious site about Champagne!). It's extremely well done and you can go back and forth between levels to make sure you're not missing anything.</div>
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While the best way to learn about Champagne is to open several different bottles and compare and contrast, Champagne Campus is a great complement to tasting Champagne, as you'll get a better understanding of what this wonderful beverage is all about.</div>
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A toast to the CIVC for creating Champagne Campus. I hope that millions will visit the site!</div>
tom hylandhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15059595835440742055noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4840230708436051577.post-44623263941857892292015-10-10T08:07:00.002-05:002015-10-10T08:07:28.363-05:00Simply Italian - Chicago and San Francisco<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjahUjFJhifxDdwc6cQ5r_bnuSl8TLn6nzXKNrAU1KeMNitFn8aDBgti0tBs1Xm1g5RTaQwrPzDsAaIRA_Ic133_196zxDkdTPYK-ff_D7I199zsiJj8nhNsf_3mb6XiNLHHjRdm-sRPKy9/s1600/Simply-Italian-Final-Evite-head.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjahUjFJhifxDdwc6cQ5r_bnuSl8TLn6nzXKNrAU1KeMNitFn8aDBgti0tBs1Xm1g5RTaQwrPzDsAaIRA_Ic133_196zxDkdTPYK-ff_D7I199zsiJj8nhNsf_3mb6XiNLHHjRdm-sRPKy9/s400/Simply-Italian-Final-Evite-head.jpg" width="166" /></a></div>
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<b>Simply Italian</b>, one of the best Italian wine events held annually in the United States, is returning to Chicago and San Francisco soon. The events will be held on Monday, October 26 in Chicago and again on Wednesday, October 28 in San Francisco (details below).</div>
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Simply Italian has been a great success for a decade now, with its combination of seminars and a gala tasting for the trade. This year, seminars include one about the wines of Veneto, Piedmont and Tuscany; one on Frascati; one on Emilia-Romagna, and finally, one on Sardinia (I will be conducting that seminar in Chicago).</div>
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Following the seminars will be a gala tasting featuring more than 50 producers from various regions of Italy, including Friuli, Lombardy, Piedmont, Veneto, Sardinia and Tuscany.</div>
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Here are the details:</div>
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<b>Chicago - Monday, October 26</b></div>
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Hyatt Chicago Magnificent Mile</div>
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633 N. St. Clair St.</div>
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<b>San Francisco - Wednesday, October 28</b></div>
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The Fairmont - San Francisco</div>
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950 Mason Street</div>
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For more information or to register (trade only), go to <a href="http://www.ieemusa.com/">ieem.usa </a></div>
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or call them at: 305-937-2488</div>
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<br />tom hylandhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15059595835440742055noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4840230708436051577.post-67719907663473050362015-10-02T13:56:00.002-05:002015-10-02T13:56:54.826-05:00Two from the Maremma: Fertuna and Sette Cieli<br />
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<i>A guest post from my friend and colleague <b>Bill Marsano</b></i></div>
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<span style="color: #002060;">Two Italian estates of the
Maremma—Tuscany’s southwest coast—uncorked their wines in Manhattan recently.
Both Tenuta Fertuna and <span style="mso-bidi-font-weight: bold;">Tenuta Sette
Cieli</span> are hard by Bolgheri, the sub-zone of the Maremma that shot to
prominence with Tenuta San Guido’s Sassicaia in the 1970s (it’s home to other
Supertuscan producers as well, including<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Tenuta Dell'Ornellaia, Gaja’s<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Ca'Marcanda and </span><a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Antinori" title="Antinori"><span style="color: #002060; text-decoration: none; text-underline: none;">Antinori</span></a><span style="color: #002060;">’s Guado al Tasso). The
wider Maremma now has stature despite its history as an obscure <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">terra infida, </i>or treacherous land: a
haunt of bandits (long suppressed), malarial mosquitoes (now purged) and cattle-poking
cowboys, or <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">butteri</i>, (now mostly a
tourist lure). That stature comes from its wines, and because it is so
hospitable to French vines, the Maremma is sometimes referred to as “Italy’s
Médoc.” </span>(Giacomo Tachis, godfather of Supertuscans, has called it the
home of “deluxe enology,”no doubt with prices in mind.) <span style="color: #002060;">Sangiovese remains inescapable nevertheless, and happily so.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="color: #002060;">Tenuta Fertuna, a mere stripling
(founded in 1997), threw its luncheon at Mulino a Vino, a new cellar-dwelling
“creative Italian” place on West 14<sup>th</sup> St. in the Meatpacking
District. I like a darkish restaurant, so I think <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">The New Yorker </i>was a tad unkind in calling MaV a “dungeon-like
space, gloomy and gilded, like Christian Grey’s guest room,” but “to each his,”
etc. An example from the menu’s creative side is the </span>smoked-cured wild
salmon and saffron caviar topped with Amarone 2001 glaze and served on fennel
panbrioche. It was fine, but stodgy me leans toward the large and tomato-sauced
Mamma’s meatball and the properly cooked homemade pastas. It’s worth noting
that MaV has a list of about 100 wines, all Italian, all available by the
glass, all in the care of not only a sommelier but a <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">mini-</i>sommelier. That’s what the website says, anyway. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEitYrtf-40hjUAVCVBvMHPGWz_Ql3bs6swCFixfLk4q_SloUc3UY6d-qjt4hxH8PCCBxJ0pJeiNpK2U1rDiC0Qo3cB6WlW9MK1V-FrKGiaiBvoA-GQ7y65ZAGUPWeOIMEGVd0wogiyaNmCD/s1600/IMG_1211.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEitYrtf-40hjUAVCVBvMHPGWz_Ql3bs6swCFixfLk4q_SloUc3UY6d-qjt4hxH8PCCBxJ0pJeiNpK2U1rDiC0Qo3cB6WlW9MK1V-FrKGiaiBvoA-GQ7y65ZAGUPWeOIMEGVd0wogiyaNmCD/s320/IMG_1211.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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Fertuna’s wines were creative too—they were all IGTs, that
category which allows much freedom from the sometimes-stifling DOC rules—but without
punishment or humiliation. (Remember when Tignanello had to be labeled <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">vino da tavola</i>, Thirsty Reader? If not,
I envy your youth.) Anyway, the first Fertuna was Dropello Toscano Bianco, a
white Sangiovese (really) with a little Sauvignon Blanc. Straw yellow, it’s
crisp and engaging, and it’s what Fertuna calls “accessible,” meaning
affordable: I’ve seen it at about $10 a bottle, although the suggested retail
is $16. </div>
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A bigger surprise was the Pactio Toscana Rosso: 60%
Sangiovese, 30% Cabernet Sauvignon and 10% Merlot. Normally such a large dose
of Cabernet absolutely flattens Sangiovese, but not this time: The Pactio still
had Sangiovese’s distinct delicacy and elegance, the result of using only
second- and third-fill barriques obtained from Marchese Nicolo Incisa della
Rocchetta’s Tenuta San Guido. Indeed, Fertuna’s winemaker, Paolo Rivella
(nephew of the renowned Ezio) worked hand-in-glove with San Guido’s team. Imagine:
all that for $19. The final wine, LODAI (about $32), had even more Cabernet,
40%, and so, for me, missed the mark. Cab’s heft was certainly there for its
innumerable devotees, but the dancer’s grace of Sangiovese was overwhelmed. If
you’re not expecting Sangiovese, you won’t mind a bit.</div>
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<span style="color: #002060;">Tenuta Sette Cieli </span>actually
hit town earlier by a month or so, and their luncheon was held at Upland (Park
Ave. South & 26th St). My restaurant-savvy pals were floored, impressed,
gob-smacked: “Justin Smillie’s place? You’re kidding! It takes months to get in
there!” Had I but known I’d have put on airs instead of my pajamas.</div>
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It’s a handsome, airy, open-kitchen kind of place featuring
“California cuisine,” which here means a lot of Italian, lots of local produce,
and obscure ingredients (dentile, anyone? puffed farro?). Sette Cieli's wines were presented by the winemaker, Elena Pozzolini, a very pretty and enthusiastic young woman<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="background-color: #fdfdfd;"> with a high-beam smile and a taste running to Cabernet and Prada handbags. She served her itinerant apprenticeship in the customary international way (Mendoza, Mornington Peninsula, Santa Ynez Valley, and Tuscany, where she was winemaker to Bibi Graeta at Testamatta, in the Fiesole Hills overlooking Florence. The wines she poured were from 2011, and so were not "her" wines; she came to Sette Cieli only two years ago (the estate itself dates to only 2001). But they certainly showed it to be capable of impressive wines. </span></span><br />
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<span style="background-color: #fdfdfd; color: #002060; font-family: 'Palatino Linotype', serif;"><a href="https://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=4840230708436051577" name="OLE_LINK3"><br /></a></span></div>
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<b>Elena Pozzolini</b></div>
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Elena offered three IGTs and one DOC, all of them excellent.
The former were the Yantra (60% Cabernet, 40% Merlot), $25; Indaco (40% Malbec,
30% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot), $55); and Scipio (100% Cabernet Franc), $120.
The DOC was the oddly named NO14,
whose Bolgheri-born <i>uvaggio</i>, or
blend, is 70%<i> </i>Cabernet, 15% Merlot,
10% Petit Verdot, 5% Cabernet Franc. It retails for about $45. Possibly you
were not expecting to see a Bolgheri DOC going for so much less than a Maremma
IGT, and possibly you will struggle to find it. The estate produce a mere 3400
cases of these wines, of which 60% go to export: that’s about 2000 cases, which
makes a good case for online shopping.</div>
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There’s another reason for online shopping: The SRP, or
Suggested Retail Price, would cop the Pulitzer for Fiction every year if only
prices were considered literature. They are fiction, however, to the extent
that most retailers use them solely as a basis on which to discount.</div>
tom hylandhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15059595835440742055noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4840230708436051577.post-7707725133466764592015-08-22T08:35:00.002-05:002015-09-04T18:47:23.849-05:00The Latest and Greatest from Champagne - Part One<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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I'm working on a book on Champagne and believe me, I can't really call this work! (Well, the writing part is work, I'll give you that.) Not when your research is tasting Champagne, whether in France or even at home. I toured the Champagne region in late June and was able to visit about a dozen producers and taste wines from a few others when I visited VinExpo in Bordeaux. Since I've been back, I've been tasting a lot of Champagne and have a lot more to enjoy (note: I'm not calling this sampling, as I won't sample a Champagne - I'll drink it all, along with whoever is with me at the time).</div>
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So to get caught up, here is an overview of the best Champagnes I have tasted over the past three or four months, broken down into a few categories. I have plenty now and I'll do this again in a few months, after I get through another 40 or 50 Champagnes.</div>
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<b><span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;">Best Non-Vintage Bruts</span></b></div>
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<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;">While some think of this category in modest terms, I enjoy these wines and tasted several that were a notch or two above most of their competition. These included <b>Bereche</b>, a superb grower firm in Ludes, <b>Palmer </b>and <b>Mailly Grand Cru</b>, two excellent cooperatives, and the super dependable, consistent, <b>Pol Roger</b>, which has been my favorite non-vintage Brut from a famous Champagne house for many years. Finally, the <b>Leclerc-Briant </b>non-vintage Brut Reserve, from a small producer in Epernay, offers great freshness and harmony and best of all, it's made according to biodynamic practices.</span></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;">Best Blanc de Blancs</span></b></div>
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<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;">So many beautiful wines in this category - here are just a few:</span></div>
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<b style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;">Palmer (</b><span style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;">non-vintage)</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;"><b>Besserat de Bellefon "Cuvée des Moines"</b> </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;"><b>Henriot </b>(utterly charming)</span></div>
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<b style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;">Collard-Picard "Cuvée Dom. Picard </b><span style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;">(single vineyard in Le Mesnil-sur-Oger)</span><span style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;"> </span></div>
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<b style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;">Michel Gonet </b><span style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;">(latest release, 2011 base, light touch of minerality)</span><span style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;"> </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;">Several small houses and growers specialize in Blanc de Blancs; two of these, namely <b>Philippe Gonet </b>and <b>J. L. Vergnon</b>, both located in the famed Côte des Blancs village of Le Mesnil-sur-Oger, where Chardonnay reigns supreme. From Gonet (who produces as many as seven different Blanc de Blancs cuvées!), standouts included the <b>"Roy Soleil" </b>with its distinct minerality and excellent persistence, and the <b>"Belemnita" 2005</b>, the winery's prestige cuvée, a Blanc de Blancs of outstanding purity and elegance. From a vineyard in Le Mesnil-sur-Oger planted in 1929, this is a gorgeous wine that will drink well for the next 7-10 years.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;">From J.L. Vergnon, every Blanc de Blancs made by Christophe Constant at this firm that has become a rising star, is noteworthy. The two finest are the <b>2008 Expression</b>, which has a rich, yet delicate finish with notable finesse, and the <b>2008 Confidence Brut Nature</b>, meaning zero dosage. 2008 was an exceptional vintage, as the wines have beautiful acidity, and though currently a bit austere, they should age magnificently. This cuvée has appealing aromas of yellow plums and golden raisins, excellent harmony and light minerality; it should peak in 7-10 years.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;">The <b>2008 Blanc de Blancs </b>from <b>Deutz</b> and <b>Pol Roger</b> are lovely wines with great varietal purity; the former is a restrained wine with a light minerality and excellent harmony, while the latter is as appealing a Blanc de Blancs as I've had from Pol Roger in years. Offering a light chalky character in the nose, this has beautiful freshness, rich minerality and impressive weight, as this wine coats the palate. The Deutz should peak in 5-7 years, while the Pol Roger should age even better, peaking in 7-10 years. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;">Other first-rate vintage Blanc de Blanc de Blancs include those from </span><b style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;">Bruno Pailard, 2009 Pierre Paillard "Les Motellettes", 2005 Polyez Jacquemart </b><span style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;">and </span><b style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;">Thiénot</b><span style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;">. My favorite cuvées from </span><b style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;">Bruno Paillard</b><span style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;"> are the Blanc de Blancs, both the Reserve Privée and the 2004 Blanc de Blancs; this last my favorite wine of all his cuvées I tasted with Bruno at VinExpo. Offering excellent persistence, very good acidity and beautiful complexity, this is ideal for most seafood tonight or over the next 3-5 years.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;">Regarding <b>Thiénot</b>, there are two special Blanc de Blancs produced at this small gem of a Champagne house. The <b>Cuvée Stanislaus 2005 </b>(Stanislaus is the son of Alain Thiénot), has lemon and pear aromas and a touch of yeastiness and is quite dry with lovely complexity, while the <b>Le Vigne aux Gammes Cuvée 3435</b> is remarkably rich, as it is made from late-harvest grapes from a vineyard in Avize. Some will not like the style, but I love the nutty, yeasty quality of this cuvée that displays a powerful finish and a distinct minerality.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;"><b>Best Rosé Champagnes</b></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;">I admit to loving rosé Champagne, actually being almost obsessed with these wines. Maybe it's because they're different, or maybe it's because most examples are primarily Pinot Noir-based, which give these wines a bit more power and richness. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;">I was quite pleased with virtually every rosé I tasted on my recent trip; a few examples include the non-vintage offerings from <b>Perrier-Jouet</b>, <b>Henriot</b>, which is quite delicious with excellent freshness, and the <b>Mailly Grand Cru "L'Intemporelle"</b>, which has bright fruit and delicate Pinot Noir flavors.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;">Moving up a notch or two as far as texture and weight, the <b>2005 Philipponnat "1522" Rosé </b>(named for the year of the firm's founding) is extremely classy with notes of dried pear and sour cherry; there is outstanding persistence with great finesse; this is a beautiful rosé that does not get the attention it deserves. Enjoy now and over the next 5-7 years.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;">The <b>2005 Bollinger "La Grande Année" Rosé</b> is stunning, with its exquisite aromas of dried cherry and red plum, excellent concentration and persistence and very good acidity. Perfectly balanced, this is delicious with great purity and varietal character. This should drink well for 7-10 years. How good is this wine? It is the best current cuvée from this house in my opinion, even better than the 2002 R.D. (recently disgorged).</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;"><b>Veuve Clicqout</b> has been making a name for itself with its beautiful rosés for some time; this makes perfect sense, as this is a house where every cuvée is primarily Pinot Noir-based. The <b>2004 Vintage Brut Rosé</b> is full-bodied and very rich with explosive fruit on the palate and in the finish. While this is quite flavorful and impressive now at 11 years of age, it needs time and will be at its best in another 3-5 years or longer. If you do consume it now, pair it with veal or a game bird.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;">Two rosés from <b>Paul Bara </b>in Bouzy are notable for their varietal purity and balance. This should come as no surprise as this grower uses Pinot Noir from their own vineyards in this beautiful village in the Montagne de Reims, one known for its rich, ripe Pinot Noir. The <b>Brut Grand Rosé</b> (non-vintage) has appealing raspberry jam and morel cherry flavors and is utterly delicious. Their <b>2009 Special Club Rosé</b> is also very tasty, with more of a mandarin orange flavor profile. Displaying excellent ripeness, this is quite sleek, with admirable finesse. Offering excellent complexity (there are notes of red spice in the finish) and beautiful balance, this is a lovely wine, to be consumed at dinner (halibut would be an ideal pairing) over the next 3-5 years.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;">Finally, the rosés from </span><b style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;">Dom Perignon</b><span style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;"> are simply breathtaking. As much as I've loved Dom Perignon Brut (and the current 2005 release is first-rate), I've always believed that their rosé was a wine of greater complexity. The current release is the <b>2004</b> and it is another outstanding example of Dom Perignon Rosé. Offering great depth of beautifully ripe black cherry fruit with excellent persistence and very good acidity, this has magnificent harmony. This has a long, long finish and is extremely satisfying. This offers great pleasure now, but you don't need to be in a hurry to drink this, as it should be in great shape in another 12-15 years.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;">Even more remarkable is the <b>1995 Rosé P2 </b>(pictured). The "P" stands for Plenitude, a term that chef-de-cave Richard Geoffroy is using for recently disgorged examples of Dom Perignon (this replaces the term Oenotheque, used for several years). Combining excellent ripeness - 1995 was an outstanding year in Champagne - with a rich mid-palate, very good acidity and a lengthy finish, this has great Pinot Noir purity. The two things that struck me the most about this rosé were its elegance - as rich as this was, the wine offers lovely delicacy and finesse - and its amazing freshness. Here is a twenty year-old rosé that seems more like it is four or five years old. It's a remarkable wine, arguably the most complex, refined and yes, greatest rosé Champagne I've ever tasted. This will offer great satisfaction now and over the next 10-15 years. Stunning!</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;">In my next post on the latest from Champagne, I'll focus on some of the best examples I've recently tasted of Blanc de Noirs, vintage Bruts and of course, prestige cuvées (preview: the 2002 Pol Roger Sir Winston Churchill is magnificent!) Cheers!</span></div>
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<br />tom hylandhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15059595835440742055noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4840230708436051577.post-4074610905454292362015-08-06T12:43:00.003-05:002015-08-06T12:43:56.713-05:00Next Champagne Class/Dinner<br />
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<b>Vineyards at Epernay </b>(Photo ©Tom Hyland)</div>
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I will be conducting another of my popular Champagne class/ dinners on Saturday, August 22 at Yindee Thai Restaurant in Chicago. Details are below - seating is very limited, so if you want to attend, you need to enroll as soon as possible.<br />
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<b>At $40 a person, this is a great value</b>, as you will enjoy dinner with six Champagnes from producers such as <b>Deutz, Taittinger, Charles Heidsieck, Lamiable, Veuve Fourny </b>and <b>Gosset</b>. Don't miss this opportunity, as I will taste out these wines and talk about recent developments in Champagne, where I visited in June. (Note that the retail price of these wines combined is more than $400.)</div>
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<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;"><b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span style="color: #1a1a1a;">6 Champagnes plus food</span></b><b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span style="color: #1a1a1a;"><o:p></o:p></span></b></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;"><span style="color: #1a1a1a;">Gosset Brut "Excellence"</span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;"><span style="color: #1a1a1a;">Veuve Fourny Blanc de Blancs Premier Cru Vertus</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;"><span style="color: #1a1a1a;">Charles Heidsieck Brut Vintage 2005</span><span style="color: #1a1a1a;"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;"><span style="color: #1a1a1a;">Lamiable Rosé Grand Cru</span><span style="color: #1a1a1a;"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;"><span style="color: #1a1a1a;">Deutz Rosé Vintage 2009</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;"><span style="color: #1a1a1a;">Taittinger Comtes de Champagne 2005</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;"><span style="color: #1a1a1a;">$40 per person for the food and champagnes (and handouts). <b>Yindee Thai, 1824 W. Addison Street</b> (just under the Addison Brown line "L"). 7:00 PM start. (Please note- do not call the restaurant for information- you must enroll through me.)</span></span></div>
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<span style="color: #1a1a1a;"><span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">This will be limited to 8 or 9 people, so everyone can enjoy enough Champagne.<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span style="color: #1a1a1a;"><span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">As this is limited to a small number of people on a first-come, first-serve basis, I want to be sure I fill each set. Please email me at thomas2022@comcast.net to let me know how many people you want to reserve for and I can let you know if there are still seats available.<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span style="color: #1a1a1a;"><span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">Payment will be to my PayPal account. The email address is thomas2022@comcast.net. The fee is $40, which covers everything.<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span style="color: #1a1a1a;"><span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">When I receive your payment, I will contact you and let you know. No cancellations after August 20.<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span style="color: #1a1a1a;"><span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">I look forward to seeing you on August 22, for an educational and fun evening with the many styles of Champagne – paired with Thai cuisine!</span><span style="font-family: Adobe Garamond Pro; font-size: 15pt;"><o:p></o:p></span></span><br />
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tom hylandhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15059595835440742055noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4840230708436051577.post-13591121577140774312015-07-31T14:00:00.002-05:002015-07-31T14:00:23.338-05:00It's Time for Albariño!<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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August 1 is Albariño day. There's something I bet you didn't know - I didn't until a few weeks ago. I always thought it strange that there would be a special day for a particular wine - why not a week or a month? I'm not going to drink it only on that day; regardless, at least this business about a special day gets us thinking about Albariño- and that's a good thing.</div>
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Albariño is a dry white that is becoming ever more popular in America; certainly the public is moving away from big reds, preferring more elegant, drinkable wines and Albariño is there to fit the bill. The fact that it's a lovely aromatic wine with delicious fresh fruit is also a big plus - here is a wine that is a crowd pleaser and one that can be paired with gourmet fare.</div>
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Albariño is a dry white made from the eponymous grape grown in the Rias Baixas region of northwest Spain, not far from the border with Portugal (there are also some excellent versions of Albariño produced in Portugal, but for this post, we'll only deal with those from Spain). </div>
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This is a continental climate, with the advantage of being located not far from the Atlantic Ocean, meaning that local vineyards receive cooling breezes from the sea, moderating temperatures. This helps preserve freshness and acidity, which make this an ideal region for the Albariño variety. In fact, 90% of the plantings in Rias Baixas are Albariño. </div>
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This means dozens and dozens of producers craft their version of Albariño. I've enjoyed these wines for years; Albariño has become one of my favorite summer whites, although I enjoy it in the spring and autumn as well. Most are unoaked, letting the pear, melon and apple fruit aromas shine through; they're ideal paired with shellfish (paella would be a great match), risotto and lighter vegetables such as carrots and peas. I also love taking an Albariño to a BYOB Thai restaurant here in Chicago - they are especially great with spring rolls, noodles or chicken or pork with lime and peanut sauce.</div>
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Here are notes on a few I've tasted recently:</div>
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<b>2014 Don Olegario </b>- Light yellow; lovely aromas of lime, golden apple, white peach and lilacs. Medium-bodied with a dry finish with a hint of minerality. Very good complexity and balance. Great typicity - a delicious Albariño for enjoyment now and over the next year. Suggested retail price: $20 (Imported by Kobrand)</div>
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<b>2011 Trico </b>- While most examples of Albariño are enjoyed upon release, the best can age a few years. This 2011 is one of the finest examples of aged Albrariño I've tried in a few years. Deep yellow- still fresh aromas of Bosc pear, geranium, saffron and magnolia. Medium-full with very good concentration. Very good acidity, excellent concentration and nice structure. Enjoy on its own or with paella, risotto or a summer vegetable salad. $25 (Imported by Michael Skurnik)</div>
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<b>2013 Trico "Tabla de Sumar"</b>- Straw/light yellow; attractive aromas of honeysuckle, yellow peach and lilacs. Medium-full, this has bright, juicy varietal fruit, very good acidity and a zippy, zesty, finish. Tasty and very delicious! $15 - very good value (Imported by Michael Skurnik)</div>
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<b>2013 Martin Codax Albarino </b>- Straw/light yellow; aromas are a bit closed at present - hints of Anjou pear, white peach and lilacs. Medium-bodied, clean and well balanced with good acidity. Good typicity - this is pleasant now, but should open a bit and will probably reveal more complexity within another 10-12 months. $15 (Imported by Gallo)</div>
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<br />tom hylandhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15059595835440742055noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4840230708436051577.post-3137256970581800672015-07-19T08:49:00.001-05:002015-07-19T08:49:07.372-05:00Champagne Class/Dinner<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<b>Champagne cellar in Bouzy </b>(Photo ©Tom Hyland)</div>
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I will be conducting another of my popular Champagne class/ dinners on Saturday, August 1 at Yindee Thai Restaurant in Chicago. Details are below - seating is very limited, so if you want to attend, you need to enroll as soon as possible.</div>
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<b>At $35 a person, this is a great value</b>, as you will enjoy dinner with five Champagnes from producers such as <b>Deutz, Taittinger, Veuve Clicquot, Duval-Leroy </b>and <b>Drappier</b>. Don't miss this opportunity, as I will taste out these wines and talk about recent developments in Champagne, where I visited in June.</div>
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<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;"><span style="color: #1a1a1a;">Drappier Blanc de Blancs “Signature”</span><span style="color: #1a1a1a;"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;"><span style="color: #1a1a1a;">Taittinger Vintage Brut
2004</span><span style="color: #1a1a1a;"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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Vintage 2004</span><span style="color: #1a1a1a;"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;"><span style="color: #1a1a1a;">Cuvée William Deutz 2000</span><span style="color: #1a1a1a;"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;"><span style="color: #1a1a1a;">$35 per person for the
food and champagnes (and handouts). <b>Yindee Thai, 1824 W. Addison Street</b>
(just under the Addison Brown line "L"). 7:00 PM start. (Please note- do not call the restaurant for information- you must enroll through me.)</span></span></div>
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<span style="color: #1a1a1a;"><span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">This will be limited to 8
or 9 people, so everyone can enjoy enough Champagne.<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span style="color: #1a1a1a;"><span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">As this is limited to a
small number of people on a first-come, first-serve basis, I want to be sure I
fill each set. Please email me at thomas2022@comcast.net to let me know how
many people you want to reserve for and I can let you know if there are still
seats available. <o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span style="color: #1a1a1a;"><span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">Payment will be to my
PayPal account. The email address is thomas2022@comcast.net. The fee is $35,
which covers everything.<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span style="color: #1a1a1a;"><span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">When I receive your
payment, I will contact you and let you know. No cancellations after July 29.<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span style="color: #1a1a1a;"><span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">I look forward to seeing
you on August 1, for an educational and fun evening with the many styles of
Champagne – paired with Thai cuisine!</span><span style="font-family: Adobe Garamond Pro; font-size: 15pt;"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
<br />tom hylandhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15059595835440742055noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4840230708436051577.post-50841784858888308432015-07-18T14:24:00.003-05:002015-07-18T14:24:46.261-05:00Italian Wine Classes- From North to South<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjIVD_t68q5Snaoo-ZZjhH8rjbXKsS4At9c3xvUBXdtFuSVNOrQELvqR8SD_ocqLQCAl5ewXegT_QRaxENZ9Q4jVqTshsR3Xgu9Ngoew20sFCVKXR8vIrD2VYEoZOdYTQDFfStzn8sSreIq/s1600/logo.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="68" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjIVD_t68q5Snaoo-ZZjhH8rjbXKsS4At9c3xvUBXdtFuSVNOrQELvqR8SD_ocqLQCAl5ewXegT_QRaxENZ9Q4jVqTshsR3Xgu9Ngoew20sFCVKXR8vIrD2VYEoZOdYTQDFfStzn8sSreIq/s320/logo.png" width="320" /></a></div>
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The Italian Wine Specialist Certification program organized by the North American Sommelier Assocation will be presented in Chicago, starting on July 25 and continuing on July 26, August 1 and 2 with a final exam on August 8.<br />
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Students will taste wines from every region in Italy - all 20 and will also learn about the country's complex regulations as well as history and of course, grape varieties. The total cost is $650.00<br />
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The class will be taught by John Cressman, who is the Chicago delegate of the Association and is an AIS (<i>Associazione Italiana Sommelier</i>) "Gold Pin" Sommelier.<br />
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To enroll for the classes, click <a href="http://www.nasommelier.com/?post_type=event&p=1908">here</a>.tom hylandhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15059595835440742055noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4840230708436051577.post-47969982468304495422015-07-09T10:21:00.003-05:002015-07-09T10:21:37.597-05:00Champagne - Deserved Honors and Success<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<b>Champagne Caves </b>(Photo ©Tom Hyland)<br />
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Great news for the Champagne region! On July 4, UNESCO made the decision to include the caves, houses and slopes of Champagne as a UNESCO Heritage site. This means that the Champagne region is now on a list of other World Heritage sites such as the Great Wall of China, the Statue of Liberty and the Aachen Cathedral in Germany, to name only a few (there are more than 1000 Heritage Sites across the globe). It now joins other wine regions on the list, such as the Upper Middle Rhine Valley in Germany and the Vineyard Landscape of Piedmont: Langhe-Roero and Monferrato in Italy.</div>
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<b>Champagne Vineyards in Bouzy </b>(Photo ©Tom Hyland)</div>
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For me, this is great news, as it will only help the sales of Champagne. You might think that Champagne might not need this acclaim to improve their market performance, but I believe that when people understand the meaning of these hillsides and their terroir, as well as the secrets of the cellars where wines are aged for years, transforming white and red wines into stunning sparkling wines of great individuality, they will realize how truly special Champagne is. They will also understand how singular Champagne is - there are notable bubblies produced in many territories around the globe, but Champagne is unique and is <i>the</i> reference point for sparkling wine.</div>
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I raise a glass of Champagne to the growers and producers of Champagne and congratulate them on this wonderful commendation!</div>
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Click <a href="http://paysagesduchampagne.fr/wp-content/uploads/2015/07/ANGLAIS_04-juillet-inscrit-Communique-presse_CMC-de-Champagne.pdf">here</a> for a copy of the press release.</div>
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tom hylandhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15059595835440742055noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4840230708436051577.post-61541038722792880002015-06-12T08:48:00.001-05:002015-06-12T08:48:57.599-05:00A Singular History of Wine<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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Wine books are as popular as ever, but when it comes to books about the history of wine, that's a different story. That's not a surprise, given that most readers would rather learn about new wines and trends as opposed to winemaking practices from decades and centuries ago.<br />
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So the history of wine is usually relegated to an opening chapter in most books, if at all. I'm happy to report then, that British author Oz Clarke has changed all that with a wonderful new work called <i>The History of Wine in 100 Bottles</i>. It's a typical Clarke opus, full of wit and style; it's a breezy read and it also has dozens of beautiful images as well as the labels of the significant wines that Clarke writes about in this historical overview.<br />
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What Clarke has done here is to highlight 100 historically important wines - or trends - that he believes are worth considering when it comes to a broad history of wine. Note that this is not a Top 100 list; there aren't discussions about the 1945 Mouton Rothschild, Petrus or Latour in this book. Rather the author has selected some famous wines as well as famous moments to make his argument.<br />
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For example, while specific wines such as the 1915 Vega Sicilia and 1979 Opus One are among the 100 entries, Clarke is more interested in milestone moments on the history timeline. Thus entries include "The Modern Wine Bottle - 1740s", "The Concept of Chateau - 1855-1870s", a look at the famed Bordeaux classification and its role in pricing, as well as "Robert Mondavi & The Rebirth of Napa - 1966", and "Central Otago - Furthest South - 1987" about the birth of this marvelous wine district on New Zealand's South Island.<br />
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Clarke also discusses "International Consultants - 1980s and 1990s", about consulting winemakers such as Michel Rolland and Stéphane Derenoncourt, who became overnight celebrities for their work in Bordeaux and around the world; and of course, the influence of Robert Parker (who was one of the biggest cheerleaders for these consultants), is another chapter in Clarke's book.<br />
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The author doesn't only single out the so-called great wines, as he also writes about bag-in-box wines, white zinfandel and screw caps. I love the fact that Clarke has included these topics, as they are certainly an important part of wine's history; it also shows that he isn't so caught up with famed chateaux or hilltop Napa Valley estates - the balance of this book between celestial wines and everyday ones is admirable.<br />
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So too is Clarke's writing style. I've read several of his books over the years (full admission - I did a modest amount of research for one of his books many years ago) and have always loved the way that he doesn't take himself too seriously. Even better is his honest and often quirky approach to his subject. Writing about bag-in-box wines, he pens:<br />
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<i>Getting the last glass of wine out is not always easy. You can just cut the bag open and drain the dregs. But that means you won't be able to enjoy the bag to the full since, when it's empty, you can blow it full of air - and it becomes a very comfortable pillow.</i><br />
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Where else would you find text such as that?<br />
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From the beginning of wine production some 6000 years ago to the invention of sparkling wine in the 1660s through the 1971 German wine law and up to winemaking in Chile's Atacama Desert as well as the unfortunate tale of fraud with Rudy Kurniawan in 2014, Oz Clarke has woven an entertaining and disarming history of wine. I do disagree with one theory he proposes about some of the wines of Angelo Gaja - this producer, while celebrated, did not make "the best Piedmont wine a Piedmontese could make", as he writes - but that is a minor criticism of this book. Each chapter is only two pages, so it's an easy read, but more importantly, it's a brilliant tale of the highs, lows and wonders of wine over the course of several millennia. I've never read a more entertaining history book on any subject. <i>Highly Recommended</i><br />
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<i>The History of Wine in 100 Bottles</i></div>
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By Oz Clarke</div>
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Sterling Epicure</div>
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Hardcover - 224 pages</div>
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$24.95</div>
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order <a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/1454915617/ref=s9_psimh_gw_p14_d0_i1?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_s=desktop-1&pf_rd_r=1V3EM2CGDCCMKYZT67WN&pf_rd_t=36701&pf_rd_p=2079475242&pf_rd_i=desktop">here</a></div>
tom hylandhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15059595835440742055noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4840230708436051577.post-37898046015849746612015-05-28T16:43:00.001-05:002015-05-28T16:43:19.368-05:00Loving Sauvignon Blanc - from all corners of the globe<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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I recently served as a member of the tasting jury for the renowned <b>Concours Mondial Sauvignon </b>competition; held in Buttrio in the Italian region of Friuli Venezia Giulia, this was the sixth annual tasting of Sauvignon Blanc from around the world.<br />
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As a judge, I was part of a five-person jury, who would be assigned to taste about 35 wines a day; the wines were served blind- we did not know what country or region these wines were from. The only thing we were told was the vintage and the fact that the wines were oaked or unoaked.<br />
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The panels were a nice mix of wine personalities from around the world; joining me as part of my team were a journalist from Italy, one from Luxembourg, another from Croatia, and finally, a winemaker from Spain. I met many of the other judges; there were winemakers and writers from France, New Zealand, South Africa and Slovenia, as well as a few other nations.<br />
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I mentioned how we were not told the country or region of origin on the wines, but anyone with just a touch of experience can pick out most examples of Sauvignon Blanc from the Marlborough region of New Zealand's South Island. Perfumes of gooseberry leap out of the glass, with notes of passionfruit in warmer years, while there is tangy acidity and often a flinty note in the finish. Marlborough receives more sunshine hours than virtually any wine region in the world, so the fruit in these Sauvignon Blancs is quite expressive, indeed!</div>
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I tasted five different cuvées of 2014 Sauvignon Blanc from <b>Saint Clair Winery </b>during one flight; these are rich, assertive wines, ones that are definitely not shy in their approach. I was especially impressed by the "Pioneer Block 1 Foundation" offering, which is very expressive with its powerful concentration, ripe gooseberry fruit and tangy acidity. </div>
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However, at the end of the day, this is a rather showy wine - another winemaker from a different jury who tasted the wine wondered if two people could sit down and drink a bottle of this wine. I have to admit he was right- this is more of a wine made to show what can be done with the variety in this area, somewhat of a tasting wine, if you will.</div>
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However, my panel was also impressed by this wine, as it did receive a gold medal in the final results. Interestingly, the same winery's "Wairau Riserve", also from 2014, was awarded a gold medal as well. This is a more toned-down style with beautiful harmony of all components, one that arguably would be a better option for two people for a dinner with shellfish or most seafood. Two outstanding wines - the wonderful 2014 vintage had something to do with the quality here as well - two different approaches, but beautiful varietal purity with both wines; Saint Clair doesn't receive the press heaped on other Marlborough estates for their Sauvignon Blancs, so it was nice to see them be awarded these gold medals (for the record, others New Zealand producers that received a gold medal in this competition were <b>Clos Henri</b>, <b>Sileni</b> and <b>Stoneleigh</b>).</div>
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I also tasted two flights of Sauvignon Blancs from South Africa and came away impressed with some wines, but a bit puzzled with others. I must admit to not having tasted too many examples of this country's Sauvignon Blancs before, so I went in with eyes wide open - remember however, that we were not told that the wines were from South Africa when we tasted them and I did not correctly identify them when I was asked for my guess.</div>
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My thoughts were primarily positive, as I enjoyed the structure and acidity of these wines; there were a few with muted aromas, but most offered bright fruit notes along with subtle herbal tones, resulting in very complex wines. One of my favorites was the 2013 "The Black Swan" offering from <b>Steenberg</b>, that was quite elegant with attractive spicy notes; this wine was awarded a gold medal by my jury. Other Sauvignon Blancs from South Africa that won gold medals at this competition were from the 2014 vintage from three other producers: <b>Delaire Graff</b>, <b>Diemersdal </b>and <b>Mastricht</b>. </div>
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Finally, I have to report on the French wines I tasted, especially as the Loire Valley is the spiritual home of Sauvignon Blanc. I've always been a big fan of Sancerre; interestingly, I did not taste any in this competition. But I did taste several examples of Pouilly-Fumé, the <i>other</i> great Loire Sauvignon, and did I love these wines! Medium-full with notes of green pepper, asparagus and distinct grassiness with an assertive herbal note, these were classic examples of Sauvignon Blanc in my opinion.</div>
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A gold medal award from our panel (and myself) went to the 2014 <b>Domaine Seguin</b> Pouilly-Fumé, a wine with excellent concentration and persistence as well as ideal ripeness; just a lovely wine with amazing complexity. Our panel also awarded a Gold to the 2014 <b>Domaine de Riaux</b> from <b>Bertrand Jeannot</b>, a Pouilly-Fumé that was less assertive than the Seguin, but no less delicious. Most impressive about these wines winning gold was the fact that the cold, rainy 2014 growing season in the Loire (as well as the rest of France and much of Europe) was rather difficult, to say the least. (Other gold-medal examples of Pouilly-Fumé were from the following producers: <b>Bernard Petit & Fils</b>, <b>Jean-Pierre Bailly</b> and <b>Domaine Champeau</b>).</div>
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One final wine to comment on, the 2014 <b>Domaine de L'Ermitage Menetou-Salon</b>, which was awarded a silver medal. I was very high on this wine, giving it a gold medal score; regardless of its ranking, here was a classic Sauvignon Blanc with gooseberry and yellow pepper notes backed by excellent persistence and acidity. This has outstanding complexity as well as varietal focus and is a delight to drink. I have only had a handful of examples of Menetou-Salon, a small production zone south of Sancerre, but I will keep an eye open for more examples, as this was a terrific wine!</div>
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<br />tom hylandhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15059595835440742055noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4840230708436051577.post-69469204759745130002015-03-06T14:51:00.003-06:002015-03-06T14:52:15.898-06:00Riesling Paradise<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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After reading the headline of this post, chances are you're thinking this is about Germany or Alsace or maybe even the Clare Valley in Australia, as they're all home to great Rieslings. But no, this is about a specific district in the United States where some pretty special Riesling is also produced. This is about Riesling from the Finger Lakes in upper New York; the producer I will talk about today is one the area's finest, <b>Villa Bellangelo</b>.</div>
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Wine has been produced in the Finger Lakes since the mid-19th century and today there are almost 100 producers in the area. There are eleven lakes in total that comprise the Finger Lakes, with the two longest being Lake Cayuga and Lake Seneca. About 50 wine firms are in the Seneca Lake area; Villa Bellangelo is a relative newcomer, having been established in 2002. The current owners, the Missick family, took over in 2011 and have remodeled the winery.</div>
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There are several varieties produced at Bellangelo, including Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Merlot and Cabernet Franc. However, their star variety here - as it is throughout the area - is Riesling. I recently tasted three examples of Riesling from Villa Bellangelo and was quite impressed by two of them. Here are notes:</div>
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<b>2013 Bellangelo Semi-Dry Riesling</b></div>
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Aromas of yellow peach, apricot and a note of mango. Medium-bodied with very good concentration. Lovely varietal purity, good acidity, ultra clean finish with a light note of sweetness. Beautifully balanced and delicious! Enjoy over the next 2-3 years. $18 Rating: 3 and 1/2 stars (out of five).</div>
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<b>2012 Bellangelo Riesling "1866 Reserve"</b></div>
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This is the winery's finest Riesling; the grapes are sourced entirely from a single vineyard (Gibson), situated a bit north of the winery. Attaractive aromas of dried apricot, yellow pear and hyacinth. Medium-full with excellent concentration. Very impressive complexity, ripeness and freshness. Excellent persistence, remarkable balance. Beautifully made wine that is sleek, elegant and displays breeding. Dry finish with notes of spearmint. Enjoy over the next 3-5 years. $32 Rating: 5 stars</div>
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This last wine is as fine an American Riesling as I've had in many years! The only American Riesling I've ever tasted that is as complex and varietally pure has been from Stony Hill in Napa Valley, a legendary producer.</div>
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Bravo to the team at Villa Bellangelo for these beautiful examples of Riesling!</div>
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<i>Note: This is my first post on this blog for some time. I've been recovering from heart surgery and it's been some time since I have had the energy to write. Hopefully, I'll write more posts soon.</i></div>
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tom hylandhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15059595835440742055noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4840230708436051577.post-83293076687127682872014-12-09T12:51:00.001-06:002014-12-09T12:51:50.226-06:00It's Only Wine!!!From time to time, I receive emails from a few retailers letting me know about new releases they have in stock. To get readers of these emails excited about how great these wines are, they include an excerpt from a leading wine "guru" along with his or her point rating.<br />
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That's standard stuff these days, so nothing particularly newsworthy regarding this. However, it was the language of one of the reviews I read earlier this week that made me sit up and pay attention (and frankly, laugh out loud.) Here are a few words of a review by David Schildknecht of <i>The Wine Advocate</i> about the 2011 Egon Muller Scharzhofberger Riesling Auslese:<br />
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<i>"Muller's 2011 Scharzhofberger Riesling Auslese delivers a penetrating and multifarious nose of heliotrope, lily, candied lime rind, quince preserves, white peach preserves, distilled herbal essences, marzipan and brown spices... a kaleidoscopically interactive array of those diverse and exotic elements that on the nose signaled its ripeness and botrytis enoblement."</i><br />
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"Multifarious", "heliotrope", "kaleidoscopically"? Say what? Does anyone even know what the word "heliotrope" means? More importantly, why is a word like this being used to describe the perfumes of a wine?<br />
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I mean, I guessed the writer liked the wine, but this is ridiculous. It's no wonder that so many people poke fun at wine critics and wine reviews in general.<br />
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Then you have Antonio Galloni, who has essentially found a pet phrase that he loves to use again and again. That's "drop-dead gorgeous." He uses this term a lot - you could look it up. Drop-dead gorgeous - are we talking about a wine here or Angelia Jolie?<br />
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Look, I've been writing about wine for more than fifteen years and I know that you can only write pear, melon and apple aromas for white wines and cherry, plum and tar for red wines so often. Thus I can understand a critic wanting to break the mold from time to time.<br />
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That's fine, but talk to us in terms that first, are relevant to the wine (I don't consider, "drop-dead gorgeous" a proper term to describe a wine) and secondly, use words that we can understand. Yes, wine lovers, especially those searching for great wines made in limited production are intelligent people, but most of us don't use the word "multifarious" and we certainly don't talk about "an interactive array" of elements.<br />
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Writing such as this, it seems to me, is all about the critic trying to impress, trying to let everyone know about his vocabulary. He's basically talking down to us, letting us know he's more intelligent than we are.<br />
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Which brings me to an even more basic argument. When did the individual describing the wine become more important than the wine itself?<br />
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It's bad enough that too many people learn about wines with scores - basically the ultimate sound bites for wine. But writing such as this? It helps no one.<br />
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<br />tom hylandhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15059595835440742055noreply@blogger.com1